Rear's are the same as they've always been if you're going to do those.

Fronts shouldn't be a big deal. The ABS sensor is on the back side of the rotor looking into sawtooth teeth on the rotor so there's nothing special you have to do there. Just watch the brake line and sensor wire when you take the caliper off if you let it hang.

I've not done a 250 but I've done an 88 E-350 camper that I had and it was nothing different except it had 2 pistons per caliper and that's probably what you'll have. My 2000 E-150 is also simple. If it's the same as mine you'll need a bearing seal because you'll have to remove the inner wheel bearing from the rotor and then replace it when you put the rotor back on. You'll need bearing grease also.

Because of the overtorquing, I would be concerned about the lugs and I wonder if you should just replace the rotors. There not all that much anymore. I don't remember what I spent on my RV but I replaced both calipers, both rotors, shoes, and put in synthetic brake fluid and it wasn't that bad of costs and I like to do things as cheap as I can.

Here's my suggestion: replace rotors, shoes, and both inner and outer wheel bearings and bearing seal. You're gonna have all of that out anyway. Probably all parts for less than $200 if you get the cheap stuff at AZ or Advanced. If you want cheaper you could forget the bearings as they are $15 a piece, but I would still repack them as its just too easy if you have the rotors off anyway.

Again, not sure on the 250's but my 150 just has 2 metric headed bolts on the back side holding the caliper. don't overflow the fluid when you press the pistons back into the caliper assembly as that fluid eats up stuff. And make sure you press that piston evenly and retract it all the way into the assembly as you'll need every millimeter to get the caliper and new shoes back on the rotor. I use the old brake shoe and a C-clamp to press the pistons back. Brake shoes stay on the rotors when you remove the calipers. Mine have springs on the outer pads that set into holes in the caliper and I have to bend them out to get the calipers off. One thing when putting the calipers back on is that the rubber boots that hold the caliper bolts must be retracted much like the pistons, before you reinstall as those rubber boots can keep the caliper from sliding back onto the hub assembly. Just push them back with your thumb. This is about the only thing that's not obvious on this job.

Oh, and you should have a torque wrench for the wheel nut. I screwed up on mine the other day and didn't get it torqued far enough and I had some front end vibration. When I checked that nut it was loose so then I did it right and torqued it. It's a big nut. Can't remember the size but it was larger than 1". Might be 1 1/4". I know it was my biggest 1/2" drive socket.

No doubt one of the easier jobs on these vans to do. If you've done one before then this should be no problem. Fairly simple mechanically.