There was a problem with the database just around the time I posted that LENGTHY speech...

Guess it got lost... here it is again:

Haven't done it to my V10 yet, but have done both my 4.6L's multiple times.

A few givens:

The V10 has COP - coil-on-plug. Everytime you change the plugs, you should also change the boot on all the COPs. I've seen them for $3-$5 each. Also, get dialectric grease. ALSO very important - you need an air compressor to blow out the plug holes multiple times.

List of materials:

10 COP boots
10 spark plugs (Motorcraft original equipment GREATLY prefered)
1 air compressor and a nozzle that can fit down into the spark plug hole.
1 bottle anti-sieze (the greasy silver stuff)
1 unit of dialectric grease - medium size (a few ounces?)

You can remove all the COPs at once, or one at a time, whichever you prefer.

1) Remove COP - only one bolt holds it on. Make sure the boot comes with it, otherwise, fish that out (needle nose pliers).
2) Blow air into the hole, making sure the nozzle gets all the way down to the bottom of the hole - you can use a piece of vacuum (or larger) hose if you don't have a nozzle that long. WEAR GOGGLES!
3) Loosen spark plug carefully - do NOT turn it more than one turn!
4) Blow more air into the hole - loosening the spark plug will loosen more dirt. Keep at it.
5) Remove plug
6) Take a picture, and post them here (optional)
7) Apply small amount of anti-sieze to the threads of new plug - only enough to coat the threads, do NOT get it on the combustion chamber side.
8) Install plug and torque to specs (not sure what that is offhand - someone else will answer that one).
9) Apply dialectric grease to tip of boot that seals against the plug. Also, apply a small amount around where it seals to the COP - install on COP.
10) Install COP w/boot into the hole, first coating the outside of the boot with dialectric grease, not a lot, just enough to cover the seal area.
11) Reinstall bolt and connector to COP.
12) Repeat 10 times

Differing opinions (and rightfully so) about blowing air into the hole after the plug is out - if the valves are open, that might blow stuff into the motor that you wouldn't want. I would probably make sure to get a hose stuffed all the way into the cylinder before blowing it out.

art k.

And:

Oh, one other thing, or more:

Sockets - use a 5/8" spark-plug socket with the rubber insert to grab the plug - however, when you do the first turn-and-blow, that rubber insert will keep the socket on the plug when you pull out the extension - so, take it out for the first turn, and then put it back so it pulls the plug out.

Various-length extensions. You will need quite a few different-length ones... I personally wouldn't use a u-joint, but rather use a swivel head 3/8" ratchet - in the Superduty, you should have enough head-room to get the ratchet on a straight extension instead of using a u-joint.

Torquing down the plugs can be a pain - try to get the smallest-length torque wrench you can, that should help. When you torque down the plugs, make sure the extension is as straight-up as possible! If the extension is pushed to one side, you can get much more (or less) torque than the wrench will read.

I never got the idea of a rubber hose to put the plug back in - didn't these people ever hear of the rubber-insert in the spark-plug socket?