View Single Post
  #1  
Old 10-22-2013, 08:53 PM
dpslusser's Avatar
dpslusser
dpslusser is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Leer Cap 100XL Broken class

Hey guys,

So I thought I would take some pics of the replacement of my front sliding window on my Leer Cap that broke. The sliding glass shattered after a kayak was slid into it. Calling around for a replacement or finding one online was darn near impossible. Leer Authorized dealers want 150.00 bucks not installed for the entire window. They don't just sell the sliding glass.

I found out that there is a Leer manufacturing plant a little over an hour from my house. They have a factory outlet store where you can buy caps, covers and parts. They had the glass for 70.00 bucks!!! And it was the tilt window for easy cleaning. NO ONE COULD BEAT THAT PRICE!!!

So anyway, I immediately went home and took the cap off the truck and went to work. Below are the pictures.


Picture of sliding glass broken out:

<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/1q42qd35encfwxp.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">


Inside picture off all the screws that need to be removed:

<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/hpg8bhvus6ctw5n.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">

All screws removed from the frame. The window is fed from the outside and the opening of the cap is sandwiched between the window and this frame. CONTINUE TO HOLD THE OLD WINDOW WHEN YOU REMOVE THE INSIDE FRAME. You don't want it to fall out and smash on the floor. O...and a battery drill with a 1/4 magnetic socket bit is your friend!!!!
<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/3khusdocjkphinn.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">


This is a shot of the inside frame at the bottom. Its not a full ring that goes around the inside of the window so they cover the gap with this piece of plastic:
<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/v8npdbaytzpsbl4.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">

Here are some shots of the new window:
<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/z1lmwcyb44xaflx.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">
<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/fyc20big90k38vf.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">
<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/1vyc6ps38y50428.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">


Put the new window in the same way the old one came out. Although the inside frame of the new window has predrilled holes for the screws. The window does not. There are only 2 holes predrilled into the window. That is to hold the inside frame to the window for shipping. Use this to your advantage. While I was under the cap, I opened the sliding window on the new glass to hold the window in the hole. Pinch the window and inside frame together while inserting a screw in the top and bottom predrilled holes. This will hold the window in place long enough for you to shore it up.

I had a small issue were the window was not exactly the same shape as the old one. It seemed to me slightly shorter (height wise).

Look at the pictures here. You can see the gap when the window rests against the bottom of the opening. Its not as bad as it looks.
<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/5ytvp1d5v044wzk.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">

What I had to do was raise the window up, centering it the hole, so the gasket has the same amount of lip contacting it all the way around. I favored it more towards the top since it gets more of the water.

Once centered, I started at the top and ran a small pilot but into a couple holes. This saved a lot of swearing, since you have to use your existing screws.

Watch tightening around the corners, I striped 2 screw holes out. I couldn't seem to get the inside frame and the window to come together as close, compared to the top and bottom. If you first get them started and work each one little by little and bring the whole corner together at once, you shouldn't have an issue.

Here's the completed pictures

<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/yk9j1mt1b2spfqe.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">
<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/zrlijha9kmdol3v.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">


If you have any questions, let me know!!!

Thanks for reading!!!


P.S. I will also be posting what I did to fix the week spot where my window catches are. They seemed to wear the fiberglass screw holes out and my brackets are loose. Here's a pic:
<embed src="https://app.box.com/embed/wo91k5k3yo6gfjb.swf" wmode="opaque" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="400" width="466">y