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Old 05-25-2012, 01:00 AM
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xbox73
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Mountain Pass
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by rikosintie
I am glad yours work that well. I am surprised that the ABS doesn't kick in though. When I lock mine up on dirt roads or ice the ABS kicks in quickly.
You make an interesting point. I seem to recall noticing the ABS kicking in when under braking when I was driving at a decent clip on a gravel road a while back, but not on the street. Maybe mine is disconnected, or is much less intrusive due to the increased tire size or tire compound/tread pattern? Something for me to ponder & investigate.

Originally Posted by rikosintie
I am using an A/T tire with a lot of rubber on the ground because I drive in sand dunes where flotation is king. As I said, you couldn't lock mine up with a hydraulic cylinder on the pedal. When I first put them on and couldn't stop for crap I did the following:
Replaced the master cylinder (pre-bled it on the bench first)
adjusted the master cylinder rod as far as possible
installed speed bleeders at all four corners and bled the system.
replaced the pads with EBC green stuff pads
cleaned and lubed the pins.

Made a little difference but still no locky. So I swallowed my pride and took it to a medium duty Ford truck center. They charged me an hour of time and the mechanic went over the system and did a test drive. He concluded that the brakes worked as good as any Super Duty he had driven. He did comment that my slip yoke needed greasing
Sorry, I don't really have any good advice for this, other than to maybe try some more aggressive pads?

Originally Posted by rikosintie
But the fact remains it sucks. I had a blow out take the electric brakes out on my toy hauler on the downside of the I8 pass out of San Diego. Luckily traffic was light and I was able to get to an off ramp safely but there is no way I could have stopped in a reasonable distance if something would have required it.
I know that downhill pass, through Alpine & from Jacumba down to Ocotillo & onwards to El Centro. That descent can be pretty steep & windy, I don't envy you.

Originally Posted by rikosintie
I just wish SSBC made the V8 for the rear. As I stated I tow 99% of the time and have 5600lbs on the rear and 3700lbs on the front. Do the math and you can see that big bang for the buck would be rear calipers.
Michael
I don't understand the reasoning of this, or what you are trying to say here. Regardless of the front-rear weight distribution of the vehicle, 70-80% of the braking is still done by the front brakes. That's why nearly all vehicles have larger diameter & thicker front rotors than the rear, and the front calipers often have more and/or larger diameter pistons than the rear. As soon as braking starts, there is a dynamic weight shift towards the front of the vehicle. Despite the static vehicle weight distribution, the bang for the buck is to increase the amount of braking that can be achieved by the brakes that are used the most i.e. the front brakes.

Also, your front & rear weight numbers seem off. While I understand the V10 engine is lighter than the 7.3L PSD, the front of the X, where the engine is, before one takes the trailer into account, should still be significantly heavier than the rear. Even with, say, 1,000 lbs of downforce on the rear due to tongue weight of a 10,000 lbs trailer, the front-to-rear weight distribution should then be roughly equal (rather than the rear carrying 2,000 lbs more weight than the front). Also, your sig says you have air bags & a weight distributing hitch which would effectively shift some of the trailer weight load off the rear axle towards the front axle, so the numbers you quoted seem a little off. If those F & R axle weight numbers are indeed correct, are you sure the there is enough tension on your WD bars?