#6  
Old 05-15-2012, 07:37 PM
CM_3's Avatar
CM_3
CM_3 is offline
New User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Moderator (and everyone else), my apologies for posting in the wrong forum, and thank you for putting it in the correct place.

Sorry I haven’t gotten back sooner. I got called into the office, and had to travel. I’m on the road right now (in a company vehicle), but before I left, I did check the batteries. Just sitting, the batteries read 12.4 and 12.5 volts, and running, I see 14.11 and 14.16 respectively. The batteries appear to be at the correct voltage, so I am assuming the alternator is alright. There was some corrosion build up on the passenger side battery (negative terminal), and I cleaned it off with a wire brush.

Like I said, I don’t know a lot about these things (yet), and this may be normal: When I test the battery on the driver’s side, I placed the red probe on the positive post of the battery and the black probe on a bolt attached to the frame and read the reading. When I did that to the passenger side, I couldn’t get a reading. I tried several locations on the vehicle trying to find a good ground, and nothing would come up. I finally place the black probe on the negative terminal on the battery and I got my reading (12.5 off, and 14.16 idling). It could be just me, but I thought I would throw it out there anyway.

As for the ABS code of C1185, that's what I got from the shop, but I will ask them to verify it (who knows, it could have just been a typo when he wrote up the paperwork).

And thanks Colm. I was thinking I needed some gauges after my HPOP went out. As I have read many times since, the stock gauges are pretty much useless. With your info, I now have a good place to start looking.

Once I get back, I start following the grounds, probably just remove the FICM and start checking the connectors and look for any chaffing along the harness. I’ll let you all know what I find.