Working on a 87 F150, replaced clutch, master and slave. Was having a hard time bleeding it, getting all of the air out so of course headed here to look for info. What I found was Ford created a nightmare with this and I was not the only one having problems, but a whole bunch of people also had a very, very hard time.
I was trying pretty much every way I read about but I just could not get it to work like it should.
I came across a post where someone had taken the master and slave off the truck , submerged them in fluid, bleed them etc and installed it all as one assembly. Some responses were saying you couldn't put it back on that way etc.
Yes you can and how I wish i had found that post at the start. I was at the end of my rope so figured I would give it a try - could not have been easier and it works like it just came back from the factory. The only "difficult" part was putting the 2 line clamps back on - not hard at all using a swivel socket and extensions.
Pretty simple procedure and I honestly do not see why you would do it any other way now that I have pretty much done them all.
You just bought a new master and slave, so they are already off the truck - just remove the 2 line clamps (1/4" socket) so you also have the line off the truck.
Buy 2 of the big containers of brake fluid (the extra $6-$7 you spend on brake fluid is WELL worth it) and 2 containers just large enough to fit the master and slave in each. I bought a couple of plastic ones at Walmart for like $3.00 a piece in the "tupperware" section.
Put the master and slave in it's own container, loosening the bleed screw on the slave. Fill each container up with brake fluid. and then just bleed them by pushing the rods in and out making sure they are always submerged.. On the master u obviously fill the reservoir. I moved them around at different angles the best i could to insure there were zero air bubbles hiding in there.
Literally only takes minutes per cylinder.
Now the line - I had the master cylinder sitting above the slave (slave container was sitting on the floor). There is zero doubt I have any air in either. Submerge the end of the line that will be attached to the master in that container, the other end above the slave container.
Okay, I was worried I might suck a mouthful of brake fluid but that didn;t happen. Give the line a couple of sucks to start it siphoning. Keep it above the slave container so you can see if there are any air bubbles at all - do not let the master cylinder container empty enough to where the master is no longer submerged. Now that there are no air bubbles in the line, place the other end in the slave container.
Keeping them submerged at all times, attach the lines.
take it outside and hose it off.
Total time is 10-15 minutes easy.
There is absolutely ZERO problems putting it back on the truck as a one piece assembly - it could not be much easier. The ONLY thing to watch out for is make sure the line is on the right side of the vacuum hoses. I dropped the slave down, crawled under the truck to mount it and put the one line clamp back on, went back on top and I had one vacuum line behind the line where the other clamp went. Took a whole 5 minutes to correct it, but pay attention and you won't have to do that.
put the bolts on the master cylinder, mount the rod and be absolutely ecstatic that it now works exactly like it should.
Be mad at yourself for spending a couple of days gravity bleeding, having the wife pump the crap out of it while u lie under the truck with brake fluid dripping all over you, jacking the rear of the truck up etc....
Yes it did cost me an extra $15.00 for 2 containers and an extra brake fluid, but instead of going thru all of that other stuff, wondering if i would ever get it correct, I could have spent 15 minutes doing it this way, mounted it and be done with it, now having the clutch working like it just left the factory.

Obviously love the guy whose post i read that mentioned this. I looked for that post again but could not find it. trust me, the ones who said it couldn't be done that way, was harder or whatever are 1000% wrong.
It could not be easier, you are 100% sure there are no air bubbles in it in 10-15 minutes (after a couple of days of messing with this, I spent extra time bleeding those cylinders because if this did not work, I was at a loss on where to turn next).
Wish i would have seen his post 1st, tho I am not sure if i would have done it that way.
I am just posting this to do you a favor and save you a whole bunch of grief and frustration. It really is a 10 minute job bleeding them if u do it this way.

I am soooooooo happy. Wish i could buy that guy a beer.