2011 Factory f250 SuperCrew Subwoofer
 

Greetings,

My 2011 f250 XLT came with SYNC but no nav and no subwoofer.

Does anyone know if it's wired for the OEM sub? I know some of the later F150s had the subwoofer cable running to the back even though they were not equipped with a subwoofer so a person could buy the OEM sub and blot/plug it in.

Also, does anyone have pictures of the 2011 SuperCrew with the factory subwoofer? I assume its the same as the 2010 but I am not sure.

Thanks for anyones input!

That 95 is beautiful!

From all ive read it isnt included in the XLT. Only on the Lariat.

haha. Thanks!

bump bump

so any idea's yet? im thinking a couple kicker sola barics

How big and where are you planning on putting them?

I'm also in the early planning stages for an audio upgrade. Not much room to work with and keep the stock look. I like invisible. They do make a box for use behind the rear seat, but it takes up a lot of space.

I ended up pitting in a single 12 in MB Quart flat woofer behind the rear driver side seat. The guy at boxworx makes the perfect enclosures for these. He does quality work.

He has a box for 2 12 inch woofers if you don't have the power rear window. I also added an MBQuart reference mono sub amp.

Sounds great. I tied into the factory radio using an interface from PAC so no splicing wires.

I think 2 12s would be overkill for these trucks.

I'll post picks of my install when I get to work if anyone is interested.

It ended up being a completely stealth install. These trucks are pretty installer friendly.

Box was about 200 bucks. Speaker was $100. Amp was $300. PAC interface was about $150.

Love to see some pics. I like the stealth look too, but havent came up with any cost efficient ways to mount my 12" sub. I just have it in a reg box shaved it down a little and squeezed it under the armrest facing the rear. It works ok for a center cup holder for the kids in back, also installed the amp under the pass. seat. Easy access for any adjustments or future additions. I just tapped into the rear speakers to feed it.
Not professional install but it started out temp. and ended up perm.

E-mail sent to S.O.S. :)

Can you elaborate? I installed a PAC-SWI in the wife's Mountaineer but that was to retain the steering wheel controls with an aftermarket head unit.

I'd like to keep the factory head myself and am wondering if the PAC you installed provides a sub pre-out. If not how did you get it? Speaker wires?

Better to have too much than not enough. :-D

Though it doesn't look like I'm eligible since I have the power rear slider. :mad:

Yes please do!

And I was wondering why the need to cut out the carpet on the rear wall?

You do cut a little rectangle square out of the carpet but thats just so it fits better. It probably wans't 100% necessary but it does fit nicely.

BoxWorX

His name is Michael and he is a good honest guy and does great work. I told him which speaker I was going to put in and he cut the hole to the right size. Everything fit like a glove. I also fashioned some rubber posts to mount the amplifier. This allowed for some shock absorption as well as allowed me to run the wires under the amp so they would be hidden.

http://files.me.com/rutherk1/jo1rd5
http://files.me.com/rutherk1/ef5sh0

And which PAC unit did you use?

This guy here

Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

You unplug the factory radio, plug the factory connectors to the PAC harness plug the new connectors back into the factory head unit then plug the remaining harness to the little PAC box. The PAC box then has front and rear RCA outs and even has a remote turn on coming from it. It couldn't get any easier.

It's even made in the US.

http://www.pac-audio.com/UserImages/AOEM-FRD24.jpg

Thanks!

One more question... does the speed sensitive volume control still work? That's one of my favorite features of the factory head unit.

All factory options are untouched. The factory headunit/sync knows no different. The PAC unit is just a clean way to tap into the factory harness for line level outs and remote on.

The remote on even goes off/on with the headunit power so if you turn the headunit off the amp turns off. All with ZERO splicing. Which I am a fan of.

I'm sure glad I found this thread, thanks for starting it. This is exactly the kind of install I was looking for. Nice and clean, no muss, no fuss!

Now that that's out of the way I just need to determine the amp. I'm thinking of going with a 5 channel since sometime down the road I'd like to install components up front and some decent replacements for the rears. Gotta find somewhere to put it though. I like my underseat storage so I'll probably look at the area behind the rear passenger seat.

Thanks again for all the good info! It won't be right away but I will certainly post a bevy of pics when I get around to this. :-drink