Dirty Injector - Fix
When cold, 15 - 20 minutes of driving, my truck would 'buck' on a slight grade when in OD (not pulling). It would happen at 50 and at 60 didnt seem to matter. After it got up to temperature it ran fine.
After reading several post on here, I performed a fresh oil change (seems it can help in some instances) with real noticable change. I posted some questions and was told before I start replacing injectors I should try seafoam. I'm not a big fan of chemical fixes (slick 50 anyone?), so I was kinda hesitant. I contacted seafoam (due diligence) to see what they recommended. Their tech told me a can and a half, in the oil was recommended for my application. He said put it in then drive it like you stole it. So I took it out on I-20, took off pretty hard and ran it up to about 70 (it was already warmed up from the drive home). Did the return trip on the interstate the same way. The next morning I cranked (crunk?) it up and let it idle for a couple of minutes before heading to work. Im a couple of miles away from Calhoun Expressway and I usually feel the bucking pulling the initial grade at about 50 there. To my surprise, and delight, it didnt buck. Not a bit. It was running smooth the whole way to work. At lunch I get on I-520 and head towards SC, pretty good grade and distance on it, and again, no bucking. It has been a couple of weeks since and I am about to swap the filter (just to be safe) in case any of the trash has gotten in it. So this is a quick 'fix' for a crudded up injector. |
Someone here on FTE told you to try Seafoam?
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I have never heard negative comments about using seafoam products and if it worked for you that is a good thing.
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Yep. They told me to try that first, so far so good.
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Awesome, my truck is doing the same thing with the buck at around 50 to 60, I just did a fresh oil change and fuel filter(s) change it seemed to improve a little but still present. I will try seafoam asap. Thanks for sharing.
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After plenty of research I think alot of injectors are labeled as "bad" when it is just the spool valve sticking in the injector due dirty oil or too heavy of oil. I bought my truck used so I cant speak for it previous oil change record but since I have owned it I make sure my oil is always changed on time. Oil plays such a vital role for the 6.0 dirty oil just breaks stuff.
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Originally Posted by dillehay
(Post 9228272)
After plenty of research I think alot of injectors are labeled as "bad" when it is just the spool valve sticking in the injector due dirty oil or too heavy of oil. I bought my truck used so I cant speak for it previous oil change record but since I have owned it I make sure my oil is always changed on time. Oil plays such a vital role for the 6.0 dirty oil just breaks stuff.
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I've used seafoam on my 97 chevy gasser. I'm a believer. Went from 11 mpg to 18 mpg after running three tanks.
One thing though that you mentioned you put it in your oil. Did you change the oil after you ran it in there? That stuff will thin out your oil so if you didn't change your oil after adding it you probably ought to think about doing that. |
Hot Shot's Secret is specifically made for fixing stiction in 6.0 injectors, I'd try that first, but if seafoam works for you, who am I to argue?
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Originally Posted by w_huisman
(Post 9227874)
Someone here on FTE told you to try Seafoam?
DSMMH |
Originally Posted by BigPapi
(Post 9227675)
When cold, 15 - 20 minutes of driving, my truck would 'buck' on a slight grade when in OD (not pulling). It would happen at 50 and at 60 didnt seem to matter. After it got up to temperature it ran fine.
After reading several post on here, I performed a fresh oil change (seems it can help in some instances) with real noticable change. I posted some questions and was told before I start replacing injectors I should try seafoam. I'm not a big fan of chemical fixes (slick 50 anyone?), so I was kinda hesitant. I contacted seafoam (due diligence) to see what they recommended. Their tech told me a can and a half, in the oil was recommended for my application. He said put it in then drive it like you stole it. So I took it out on I-20, took off pretty hard and ran it up to about 70 (it was already warmed up from the drive home). Did the return trip on the interstate the same way. The next morning I cranked (crunk?) it up and let it idle for a couple of minutes before heading to work. Im a couple of miles away from Calhoun Expressway and I usually feel the bucking pulling the initial grade at about 50 there. To my surprise, and delight, it didnt buck. Not a bit. It was running smooth the whole way to work. At lunch I get on I-520 and head towards SC, pretty good grade and distance on it, and again, no bucking. It has been a couple of weeks since and I am about to swap the filter (just to be safe) in case any of the trash has gotten in it. So this is a quick 'fix' for a crudded up injector. We tend to share the negative stuff (problem) but never the positve stuff (fix). Kinda like the media. DSMMH |
I'm a believer in seafoam also glad to hear it works on diesels too. Well I did some research on the stuff before I used it in old chevy I got rid of and u put it in the oil, a vac hose, and in the gas tank. You only put it in the oil run it through real good comeback and while its still warm you drain and replace with new oil and filters cause "seafoam breaks down carbon build up and it can be cycled through the motor again and screw things up if not drained" its a petroleum based product so it does good for injectors and burns clean so u can run it in gas tanks as often as you want but it is VERY IMPORTANT that you change the oil the same day you put it in the oil and cycle it through! It could cause future problems if not! Just my 2 cents of what I've gathered from research.
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Originally Posted by hfdbuck09
(Post 9231664)
I'm a believer in seafoam also glad to hear it works on diesels too. Well I did some research on the stuff before I used it in old chevy I got rid of and u put it in the oil, a vac hose, and in the gas tank. You only put it in the oil run it through real good comeback and while its still warm you drain and replace with new oil and filters cause "seafoam breaks down carbon build up and it can be cycled through the motor again and screw things up if not drained" its a petroleum based product so it does good for injectors and burns clean so u can run it in gas tanks as often as you want but it is VERY IMPORTANT that you change the oil the same day you put it in the oil and cycle it through! It could cause future problems if not! Just my 2 cents of what I've gathered from research.
I put 1.5 cans of Seafoam in my oil when I change it and 2 cans about 100 to 200 miles before the next change. 14 quarts of oil = 448 ozs. 2 pints of Seafoam = 32 ozs. Do the math and you see the motor oil to Seafoam ratio is very high. I have 90,000 miles on the X, use 20W-50 Royal Purple synthetic oil year around, change oil when I cannot see the dip stick color through the oil (usually about 10,000 miles), drain approximately 7 quarts out with the motor running through the Fumoto valve and shut engine off and let the rest drain for about 30 minutes. I have run a tuner since day one and have never had a turbo or injector problem. Just my $.02 worth gathered from my experience. DSMMH |
Well not to argue cause there's people that know bout more stuff and a lot more about things than me but if you'll go to the website or look at the back of the can it says to change it after you run it through. Also google it and read some of the forums there's people that didn't change the oil and have screwed up the vehicles but like I said I'm not one to argue. That's just what I've done and up til now I didn't know if it was safe for these trucks so ill run it in the 6.0 now
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I spoke to the seafoam tech, and he said seafoam is a petroleum only based product and that the oil did no need to be changed (I did that before the seafoam....)
Never heard of hot shot, but if it is designed for the 6.0, I'd try it. |
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