4R100 Transmission Problems/ Rebuilding
 

I have a 2000 Lincoln Navigator 4x4 with 4R100 Trans.. Currently It seems as though P, R, & N have all converged because When I put it in R it wants to stall and wont move (Somthing locked), N goes forward, but it drives fine in D. Does anyone have any input as to what specifically happened internally in trans.? Im on a tight budget and am thinking of attempting to rebuild trans. myself, as cheapest refurb ive found is $1600. I contacted Ford and it seems as though internal parts arent to expensive as compared to refurb. Does anyone know the degree of difficulty and or if special tools are needed to tackle this task. Also does anyone have Service Manual Section on rebuilding this particular model. Thanks for any help/ insite

Drew

Easy stuff first - maybe your DTR sensor has slipped and needs to be adjusted. (The service manual shows a special tool for aligning the DTR sensor.)

Is your CEL on? Or is the Overdrive light flashing?

CEL is not on and overdrive light not flashing. I will try adjusting dtr tomorrow as this seems like a common simple problem reading through other blogs after you mentioned it, though I havent read any blogs that have entirely the same symptoms. Thanks for insight any more would be greatly appreciated as well.

They are not a tough rebuild, heavy as heck, so you will need a couple of good buddies to help. There is a tool that holds the drums intact as you re-install them, makes life a lot easier but you can assemble the drum in the case instead. The tool most needed pushes down the piston at the center support so you can remove and re-install the snap-ring. Out is pretty easy, in without the tool requires another set of hands to reach through the valve body side of the case with pry bars to pull down so you can install the ring. The finest resource on the planet for this rebuild is to order the "blue trans book" from your Ford dealer. The really big stinker is check ball location for valve bodies. When you remove it, make CERTAIN it is on its back, and slowly lift the body. Take a picture, mark each location with a tiny scratch for reassembly, should you lose some, new ones come with the kit and there is a checkball location book available through Sonnax. com should you not be able to find the coveted blue book. The Ford book is only 100-125 bucks new. I have a used one I would be willing to part with, but would rather not unless you simply cannot find one new. There are tons of other resources available so don't be afraid just jump in and get it done.

pdqford - I tried playing wit dtr sensor no luck evverything was all in tact shifted fine, N lines are aligned, im positive its inside tranny thanks for the input.

fred sheffield - You sir have given me the small boost of confidence needed to tackle this task, i will begin this weekend. As far as the tools you speak of here are what ive found to be needed:

#91PIT. 4R100 only overrun clutch piston installation tool. You can't get a new moulded piston in without this tool. Cost $99.00

#91E. E4OD / 4R100 Rear Assembly Installation Tool. Cost $75.00

The second one sounds like the one you speak of yes?. As far as resources go Ford sells all there service manuals through helm Inc.. I havent done it yet but im going to subscribe for 1 month access to all manuals for 2000 Navi. for $19.95. The book you speak of is it strictly for those trannys or is it vehicle specific? I believe full transmission info will be in service manual as well, correct? I know for my Civic it is. Thanks for all input, ill keep yall posted as to how rebuild is going.

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This "blue book" is the bible. It contains real pictures of each assembly, complete instructions, teardown and assembly. If you find yourself stuck, e-mail me at fred_sheffield@hotmail.com and I can scan and send you whatever you need. Or, a 50 buck deposit and you pay shipping and I send it to you and reimburse your cash at the end, if you ship it back. These things are precious to a rebuilder.

Looking for update on this thread
 

Hey I have the same issue going with my 4R100.

1. Were you able to resolve your issue?

2. What did you do to resolve it?

3. Do you know what caused it?

Thanks for your time.

It looks like he was a hit and run type of member as his last post was March 16. Here 6 days and gone.

Have you checked inside your pan for debris? Did you check the solenoid wires? they will rub and wear through sometimes.

His forward clutches are welded together, That is the most common cause of both of his complaints.

Did he make any progress with the rebuild or did he take it to a shop or trade it in? He hasn't been back since March. I would like to know if he was able to do the job successfully because I might be faced with the same thing one day.

I took my 99 F250 / 4R100 in be Diaged by a Trany shop. Good guy... been around a long time. He noted that he felt pretty sure that the forward clutch pak was welded togather.

I feel pretty sure that I am going to attempt this rebuild myself... as I am the currious type. I have read a lot of posts out there and have also ordered the pdf from ATSG and have been looking thru it.

My concern is.. Ok.. so the Forward Clutch Pak welded togather... Why? What caused it to Fail. Was there something that affected the clutch pak that caused it to fail... and if I rebuild it.. will it happen again?

I know that I may find the answer once I open the tranny. Just trying to plan ahead.

Also I am thinking of finding a used 4R100 to build up so that I have a spare.

It may take me a bit to complete this... but I will see it thru to completion & post my results.

Thanks for info.

From my experience, and I'm not a tranny rebuilder, you will need to definately replace the solenoid pack(s) and wire harness as they often go bad. The solenoids control what applies and when and is governed by the vss and other sensors through the ECM. That is about the limit of my knowledge in trans rebuilding. I hope you get it done and will post the steps you go through along with pics. A camera is a great ally when putting it back together especially when putting the little balls back in the valve body.

The valve body balls are easy, I mark each one with a scratch awl. Even better are the books offered that show the location of EVERY check ball in every transmission. AVG or AWG I can't remember offers this manual for the princely sum of $19. The forwards burn mostly due to valve body leakage, solenoid failure, lack of COOLING. Do yourself a real favor, google super cooling kits for E4OD. simple to install, DIY kits are cheap and double the flow of fluid through the cooler. Which better be new or you are gonna eat that repair very quickly. DO not be afraid, that thing is easily repaired as long as you follow the written instructions from any one of a dozen sources. One last tip, Sonnax.com, go there.

For the Sake of Closure.....

I had been driving my F250 with the Welded togather Forward Clutch Pack ever since I last posted in May. It ran fine... I just had to think ahead and not get into a reverse situation. My original intention was to rebuild this tranny myself... when I had the time. Well I never found the time and ended up taking it to the Transmission Rebuild shop that did the original diag. 1 day later and $1600 lighter I am back on the road and can now use "reverse" should I so desire.

The rebuild shop replaced the torq converter, pump & clutch packs.

I have a question. I have a 1999 ford e250. the info tag says i have a E4OD trany. I am rebuilding the trany and have taken it apart. some of the parts resemble the E4OD like the output shafe on mines which dont carry a speed sensor reluctor wheel and i dont have a turbine shaft sensor. also my planetary carrier has 3 pinion in it. my casing has a lube orifice plug but my intermediate servo assembly just pull out instead of haveing a ring to hold it in as per the E4Od manual. Is there a way to be 100% certain whitch trany i have E4Od or 4r100? after pulling it apart, i found the thrust bearing on the output shaft distroyed. All the clutches still have the id numbers writen on them. they are however slighty discolored, can i just reuse them and replace my seals?