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-   1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum28/)
-   -   SMOG PUMP (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/933580-smog-pump.html)

jjohnson1179 02-24-2010 08:37 AM

SMOG PUMP
 
THE PICTRUE BELOW IS WHAT I HAVE. IS IT POSSIBLE TO JUST REMOVE THE PUMP AND GET A SHORTER BELT, OR IS THERE SOMETHING ELSE I HAVE TO DO. LIKE INSTALL SOME SORT OF NEW PULLEY WHERE THE PUMP IS BY THE WAY IT IS A 93 FORD F-250 WITH A 351W IN IT
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...179/belt01.jpg

Conanski 02-24-2010 09:26 AM

You need an idler pulley with that setup due to the position of the tensioner. Is your air pump seized? If so take it apart and gut it and then put it back on as an idler.

skyfox10 02-24-2010 09:42 AM

Thanks for using my picture ;)

I did exactly what you were talking about. I tried many different length belts and it was a nightmare. It make then tensioner do almost nothing. I couldn't use my AC because the extra stain would cause the belt to fall off. This would also happen if I pegged the power steering.

cjben 02-24-2010 10:13 AM

I can't remember,is that the same set up as a 302? I used a shorter belt to bypass my smog pump,and it has worked just fine,belt hasn't jumped off and is plenty tight. I know it will be different for a 351w,but I used a goodyear gatorback 4060915 for my 95 5.0.

jjohnson1179 02-24-2010 11:05 AM


Originally Posted by skyfox10 (Post 8558001)
Thanks for using my picture ;)

I did exactly what you were talking about. I tried many different length belts and it was a nightmare. It make then tensioner do almost nothing. I couldn't use my AC because the extra stain would cause the belt to fall off. This would also happen if I pegged the power steering.

lol i didnt have my truck here at work and saw you pic thanks

jjohnson1179 02-24-2010 11:07 AM


Originally Posted by Conanski (Post 8557949)
You need an idler pulley with that setup due to the position of the tensioner. Is your air pump seized? If so take it apart and gut it and then put it back on as an idler.

it was seized up a couple years ago so i took it apart and got it working and evey since then it is very nosiy. just tired of hearing it

Prozon 02-24-2010 11:14 AM

With my 460 I just removed it and put a smaller belt on. I do not have all those tensioner pullies though. I just have an idler where the A/C pump would be. My crank pulley and alternator have a belt, just by-passed the smog pump. And lucky me, no tensioners to mess anything up lol.

skyfox10 02-24-2010 12:21 PM


Originally Posted by cjben (Post 8558111)
I can't remember,is that the same set up as a 302? I used a shorter belt to bypass my smog pump,and it has worked just fine,belt hasn't jumped off and is plenty tight. I know it will be different for a 351w,but I used a goodyear gatorback 4060915 for my 95 5.0.

351 & 302 are the same, as shown on the sticker. Older trucks have then tensioner up where the idle is on these trucks, that works fine. I heard someone say that you could actaully move your tensioner up to where the idler is (so it would be like the older trucks), and then it would work fine.

Also, I did try a Gotorback, and it worked the best, I might have lost it once compared to regularly with the other belts. I'll have the check and see if I used the same part number.

skyfox10 02-24-2010 12:22 PM


Originally Posted by jjohnson1179 (Post 8558296)
lol i didnt have my truck here at work and saw you pic thanks

You very welcome. :-X22

jjohnson1179 02-24-2010 01:39 PM

WHAT IS A GOTORBACK

Hitokori 02-24-2010 01:54 PM

its the back on an aligator:-X15
http://www.goodyearep.com/uploadedIm...gatorback2.jpg

strokinout 02-24-2010 02:22 PM

I know it's kind of a newb question, what is bypassing the smog pump good for?

zxwut? 02-24-2010 02:32 PM


Originally Posted by strokinout (Post 8558955)
I know it's kind of a newb question, what is bypassing the smog pump good for?

Nothing. One less thing to seize up, I suppose.

TexasGuy001 02-25-2010 05:42 AM

I would just replace the smog pump, especially if you still have cats. There is not much if anything to be gained by removing it.

Scndsin 02-25-2010 07:14 AM

I recently removed my "soon to lock up" air pump on my 5.8. While shopping for the plastic idlers (which had developed flat spots) I found that there were 2 different types available for the tensioner. 150s got plastic, 250s got metal which is what I bought.

Initially, I tested alternate routing the original belt. By going "over" the fixed idler, under the tensioner, then around the Alt, then back to the crank. This actually worked. However, the Alt would squeal for few seconds when first cranked and when put under heavy electrical load.


Since I didn't care for that, I took a length of 3/8ths-7/16ths heavy nylon rope, routing the rope under the tensioner first (after it comes off the AC compressor) completely by-passing the upper idler, then looping the Alt before returning to the crank.

I took the rope, hung it on a nail & stretched it out tight, then tacked another nail at the bottom of the loop. This gave me a length of 47-1/2 inside the loop which I doubled to give me a 95 inch starting point.

I used my locally owned parts house to source the belt. Took 3 trips, but finally wound up with a 96.08 inch belt that gave the best tension & no noise. After a couple hundred miles, I've had no problems.

This past weekend I did some work on a friends 93 Taurus. I found that the tensioner's idler has the same bearing diameter & depth and is ribbed & shouldered like the Alt pully. I plan on using this if I develop belt throwing issues.

Hope this helps someone.


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