Ford Excursion heater problems
 

Hey everyone, new to FTE, can anyone help with heater problems on my 2000 Ford Excursion. We have no heat or ac up front but, the back controls for the passengers still work. They get heat just fine, but in Montana, where it was -17 degrees yesterday, we need heat on the windshield to keep our breath from turning to ice and making it very difficult to see the stupid deer who jump out in front of you. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike

Here's what I posted up a while back.... Since you have rear heat you can probably rule out a bad thermostat.


I had the same problem with no front heat.... and now it's fixed.... for free... Here's the steps I went through.

1) Replaced thermostat and changed anti-freeze. Figured it was time to change the anti-freeze anyway and a new thermostat always fixed my other vehicles. Well... no change.

2) Opened up the glove box all the way (pull the tabs back at the top and fold it down) and felt under the dash near the heater core to see if I was getting heat there.... almost burnt my hand so I knew the core was not the problem.

3) Did some more internet research and found that the blend doors are a problem for fords (mostly F150 and Explorer) but figured that was the problem. Also found this from another site that shows how to test the ATC unit.

By the way the DTC code that I got from running this test was 025, which is Intermittent Run - time Fault for hte Blend door actuator. You might also get a DTC code of 024, which is Self-Test Fault for the blend door actuator. If there is a fault a three digit number will be displayed where the temperature is usually displayed on the ATC. Good Luck

• lThe EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.

• The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard Diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4º-32ºC (40-90ºF) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.

• The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.

• To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.

• If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.

• If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.

• To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).

• To exit self-test and clear all diagnostic trouble codes, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.

• Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).

• Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

I got an error code of 22E and 66 (2003 limited).... not sure what they mean but I went on the hunch that the motor was shot (hoping it was not the control unit) and dug in to figure out if the blend door was indeed the problem.

4) Removed the panel in front of the heater core and you can reach around from the left side and verify that the door is all the way back. Mine was stuck there no matter where the control was set.

5) Unplugged the white plug going to the blend door actuator motor and reran self test. No Change.

6) Removed the actuator motor. I just pried it up off of the black tabs. Not to bad to do. Now I was about to go to Ford and buy a new one figuring it was the problem but decided to pull it apart since I had nothing to lose.

7) To pull it apart there are about 8 tabs on the side. Nothing popped out when the cover came off and there are three gears in there. The white gear that drives the door has about 5 fingers on the back that run against the circuit board and the circuit board is just etch so I cleaned it off and put it back together.

8) Went out to the truck and plugged the motor back in and ran self test. The shaft turned and the error codes were gone.:-jammin Snapped the motor back in place, put the cover back on the heater core and I now have HEAT. Just in time as we got our first snow here in Steamboat a couple days ago.

Now if you want to check this I would suggest running the self test and if you get the same codes just open the glove box all the way and pop the actuator off. Take it apart and clean the contacts and then plug it back in and see if it clears the codes. If it does then you are back in business faster than it took me to type this up. Oh... and be thankful you don't have an Explorer... the doors tend to break on them and to replace it you have to pull the entire dash.

Hope this helps someone out.

excursion heating problems
 

thank you for all your help...unfortunately we are now getting pummeled by a winter snow storm so i am going to have to wait to fix it...information sounds like it will be helpful...thanks again...merry christmas

I'd start by replacing the heater resistor (located near the passenger side firewall in the heater motor housing under the hood. If replacing this resistor (only two bolts) is not the culprit you may have to replace the heater blower motor (same location and only requires the removal of four bolts) I just went through this and the total was approx 140.00 after replacing both. The heat is working great here in New England.

John

WOW, nice post by lambodesigns! Reps to you. I have to chase down a few Heat & A/C grmlins in mine and now I have the info to do it. thanks!

:) THUMBS UP
 

Lambo..

I used the clear code's equation and my heat is now working up front..
It took about 3 minute's to figure it out !..

Thanks to you ~!

The temps were way down in Ontario Canada this AM !

Kyle

This should be in the tech folder!:-fire

Glad the info helped out. It's been cold here too and a good heater sure does make a difference.

Reviving an old but helpful thread here...

I just bought a 2000 Ex and the HVAC controls are knobs. I plan to check the blend doors but since the controls are not digital, is there another way to do run a similar test?

Not that I know of but... maybe someone with more knowledge can tell if you can get to any of the codes via the OBD?

I just replaced the blower door actuator ($35 @ AutoZone) and still no front heat. I figure the blower motor resistor is good because the blower is working... right? I get heat in the rear so the heater core is good...right? However, when I removed the core cover, the coils are not hot. Hmmm..... Blend door works on command.

Trying to pick off the low hanging fruit. Any thoughts?

BTW, new radiator and t-stat. Heat to the rear is good. A/C is good for front and rear. All controls work, just no hot air in the front.

Checked the heater control valve -- looks newish (just bought this truck a few weeks back). There is vacuum on it and on the actuator behind the glove box. All hoses coming from the 3-way heater control valve are hot.

I'll keep ya posted!

What temp stat?

Thermostat

(what temperature):)

Pinkturtle,

Did you figure this one out?