6.0L Diesel won't start when engine warm
 

Ok I tried the search function to try and find out if anyone else has posted about this issue and the search function just keeps returning with a database error and won't provide any feedback for any search. So I decided to make another post after looking in recent posts to see if the subject came up with no luck. I have recently developed this problem with my 2005 F250 6.0L with 86,000 miles and don't quite understand it and want to see if anyone here knows the fix to this problem. If I drive my truck and then shut it off for a couple minutes, say to go in the store for a few things, when I try to start it back up it won't stay running. It chugs for a couple seconds at real low RPMs (300-400) then just stalls. When I was at the store the first time this happened, I went back in and bought a bottle of starting fluid and gave it a shot, (I know I know, shouldn't do that) and it started right up and got me home. Thought it was a fluke as the next time I went to start it, it fired right up (sat over night). Drove a couple hours to the in-laws for Thanksgiving and shut it off, it sat for three or four hours. I went to fire it up to go to a wedding shower down the street about 20 minutes drive and it started fine. Shut it off to go in and pay my "respects" and was out in ten to fifteen minutes. Again Chug, Chug, Chug, stall. Tried to start it with the same results about ten times, then I said fine went back in and ate some free food and drinks for a couple hours and came back out and it fired right up again. I drove home tonight and while in by drive way at home tonight I verified this again. Turned the truck off and tried to start it back up ten minutes after unloading the truck and same thing, no start. What could be the problem? Only other issue I've noticed was a lack of power on take off from a dead stop then a like a switch the power comes on in about three seconds. Suggestions?

STC fitting in the hpop system. 05's are notorious for this.

I have the same thing happen to me on my truck as well. I disconnected my IPC valve the sensor in the passenger side valve cover up front and reinstalled the connector, just a simple pull off and place back on, and the truck started fine for me. Since than, I though the HPOP was taking a crap on me, but since I did this, it hasnt given me a problem since. Try it out, its easy to get to.

...... but I bet you've also had an uneven idle - at stop lights for example.....

You know now that I think of it, that did happen once right when we left the house to go to the in-laws. I just popped it into neutral for a second and revved it up. Light turned green and we took off and it never did it again the rest of the Holiday weekend. So I forgot about that till you just mentioned it. I'll try this and see what happens. Of coarse my truck just now is about a week out of warranty. lol

PS what does HPOP stand for.

HPOP= High Pressure Oil Pump, and after I disconnected it I put it back on, and it idles even at 700 rpm. No Fluctuation.

If it is the HPOP, your looking at about a $2500.00 job. Mine is still in warranty, but I am waiting on Bob to release the Adrenaline HPOP from Dieselsite so I can pick that up, I already bought a core HPOP to send back as soon as Bob is ready to start sending those.

High Pressure Oil Pump.
This pump builds the oil pressure for the injectors to fire. The 6.0 injectors are electronically controlled, but high pressure oil "operates" the plunger in them - that's how they able to spray the fuel into the cylinder with over 20000psi.
That high pressure oil needs to be at least 500psi - at ICP sensor - otherwise they just won't fire.
When yo have a leak at the STC (Snap To Connect ) fitting at the HPOP, the cranking oil pressure might be OK at cold engine - thicker oil, but with a thin, warm oil can leak out faster/easier, and the pressure won't be high enough...

If replacing the HPOP cost you that amount of money, than you getting ripped off big time!!!

What kind of price would you get it for? HPOP is 800.00 over 14 hours labor and about 300.00 in shop supplies. You can get it done cheaper and for where? Not that it matters to me as I would do my own work. But dealership cost for labor and parts is 2500.00.

There are 2 items on this list what bothers me.
One is the 14 hours labor. Yes, on the 03-04 models, but since the 05 doesn't have the pressure balance loop on the back side of the intake manifold - you dont have to remove that to get to the HPOP. I'm not saying it's a simple and easy job, but an average 6.0 technician would spend about 6 hours - from that 14hrs to have a lunch or/and coffee brake.
The other is the $300 shop supply: Loctite? Or they are charging you for part of the electric bill? Or they need some new equipment, and this is how they raise the money for it?
No offense to you, I'm just venting some. If you can have it done under warranty , good, but just like you said, you could do it for yourself in a day and save over $1500. I don't know how you are with this, but if I have a chance to save $1500 in a day, I'd feel pretty good about myself. Oh, I did!

Without a doubt I would do it myself, I built mustangs for over 15 years from mild to wild, at first when I purchased my 6.0 i felt a little uneasy about doing any work, hence the reason i purchased the ESP. But with this site at hand and a lot of the information i got, i feel that I could do anything to this truck. I am waiting to do my ARP studs and new Cometic HG's.

As for the shop supplies and oil change is included as well as misc things hear and there.

As the OP stated, his truck is an 05, possibly an 04 motor, not really sure. Regardless, he still has warranty coverage.

Well I'm going to call the dealer in the morning and see if I can convince them to cover it under warranty since it's only a week out of warranty and 14,000 under by mileage. If they won't cover it then I will try the connector and hope that solves it, and that it's no the pump itself going bad.

I was in the same shoes, working on cars as a hobby, and know nothing about the 6.0 diesel.
Than one day it left me on the side of the road - HPOP ,go figure - and at that time I ended up here on FTE. With all the info here, and at that time we still had the workshop manual, I didn't just replaced the HPOP, but I went ahead, installed ARP studs, set of injectors, replaced ALL the sensors, cut the loop out from the intake, deleted my EGR cooler, installed coolant filter, rerouted the CCV. I also rebuilt my tranny just recently with the Suncoast rebuild kit, and I refuse now to take my truck to any shop for any work. I pretty much know my way around under the hood, and that what made me say that $2500 is just bull for replacing the HPOP. I know that they have no shame to charge for it, but I think it's ridiculous.
As for the truck build date: the no warm start on the 03-04 truck are really rare, the HPOP on those just goes and your truck just quits working. It might burp some when it cools down, but it wont fire back up and go. That makes me believe that he has an 05 engine, and poor fella just ran out of warranty.....

If they refuse to do it for you under warranty, and you are not afraid to get dirty some, than stay here with us, and we'll walk you through the procedure.....