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Mine were a different deal - as they were from a 2001+ truck (F-250 - 450 the same here). These are easier to find and therefore usually cheaper.
But to answer the question - yest I got 2 hydroboost units with mounting plate and master cyl. and then 1 set of hoses (figured if I had one set I could copy them) for $125 shipped. |
I got the whole works for my conversion for $200 from a guy who was parting out a 450 Look on Craigslist or a similar site to see if there is anyone in your area parting out a truck.
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I snagged a hydroboost unit from an AstroVan the other day. $16.
Josh |
So I have been doing a little looking. I have found a guy locally that has a few of these F450 trucks. All with the Hydroboost. Anybody else interested in a setup. $200 plus shipping. Includes booster, bracket, lines and power steering pump. I will probably head out there next week and take a look. I will need to pull them so let me know as soon as you can. He is not a wrecking yard. Just has a bunch of trucks on his property.
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Here are a couple pics of an Astrovan hydroboost. I took the firewall bracket, drilled new holes centered with the pushrod and plan to slot the upper holes in the firewall to match the Astrovan top bolt spacing.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=14883 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=14885 Josh |
$200.00 Boosters
Originally Posted by 68bronco79crewcab
(Post 7841537)
So I have been doing a little looking. I have found a guy locally that has a few of these F450 trucks. All with the Hydroboost. Anybody else interested in a setup. $200 plus shipping. Includes booster, bracket, lines and power steering pump. I will probably head out there next week and take a look. I will need to pull them so let me know as soon as you can. He is not a wrecking yard. Just has a bunch of trucks on his property.
Where are you located ? |
Originally Posted by PartsKen
(Post 7874602)
Where are you located ?
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4 Attachment(s)
Back from the dead - kinda
Since this seems to be the most complete hydroboost thread going - I figured I'd add a question here. Below is a snip-it from my crew build thread. I got my hydroboost in (loosely) and had a question on possibly using the brake light wiring from the 74 on the master from the 2001 - see the end of my post "...The bracket finally went on last night. It won't be fun to get in/out with the motor and fenders on the thing - but hopefully I won't have to do that. The hydro is set in place with it's nuts on there loosely for now and the pushrob bolt is loosely in the pedal Attachment 204071 Attachment 204072 Since I will be removing this proportioning valve (top pic) to replace it with a Wilwood adjustable one that I can control from the cab - I wonder if the wires from the top of it can be used on the superduty one (bottom pic)... Anyone tried this??? Attachment 204073 Attachment 204074 |
So I did the conversion and I have one question. When you hook up the line from the pump to the left of the booster. Is it left facing the booster or left side as you sit in the truck. I did the first (not thinking maybe)? I got lucky and 1 line fit like it was made to go there! I got a real growly something and the power steering is hard to turn and real slugish and the brake pedal does not return to the top of its swing when the pedal is released. FWIW my pedal came out at the same spot as the OEM stuff did. I have a 78 and the spread on the master is not the same as the prescribed booster. I slotted the holes as it is not ready for the road and will likely be replaced anyway.
TIA Todd |
Left port as looking at the booster. The right rear port is to the steering, the forward port is return to pump.
Josh |
Any ideas as to why the steering is sluggish and pedal does not return to the top when brake is applied?
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It can take a bit to bleed all the air out. Which is neat with hydroboost and a clear line retrun line into a bucket. Have a buddy turn the steering wheel and press the brake as you watch the clear line for when the bubbles stop.
As for pedal not returning it's surprising given the internal spring of the hydroboost. Also, if youa re using a Thompson pump it needs to be in tip-top shape to run both hydroboost and steering. Otherwise it might be time for a Saginaw. Josh |
Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754
(Post 8038324)
Since I will be removing this proportioning valve (top pic) to replace it with a Wilwood adjustable one that I can control from the cab - I wonder if the wires from the top of it can be used on the superduty one (bottom pic)... Anyone tried this??? http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/q...074/x300-1.jpg http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/q...074/x299-1.jpg I'm interested in the possibility that all of the hydros are made by the same company, any way to verify? Universal rebuild? Easy? I hooked up the original brake warning light from my Ford to the Dodge hydroboost and master cylinder I used, glad I did as the light came on :eek:. In my haste to get the truck on the road I hadn't fully filled the master cylinder. It's been long enough I might be wrong, but I think the warning switch just grounds to illuminate the warning light. My Dodge sensor/prop valve had a small ground that I hooked up, and only one other wire. Edit, my brake pedal returns slowly, and the pressure reservior(retains boosted operation with dead engine) seems not to be doing it's job, rebuild time me thinks. |
replaced the thompson pump with one that came from same donor as the HB. The pump is the growler. Brake still has same symptoms. I did not know that steering needed to be bled. Are you suggesting that with the wheels off the ground just moving from left to right will not fill the bill?
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Originally Posted by todd jo
(Post 9431577)
Are you suggesting that with the wheels off the ground just moving from left to right will not fill the bill?
Turning the steering wheel and pumping the brakes will bleed out all the air. And if you use a clear discharge line you can see when the bubbles stop. Just make sure you don't run the pump dry with this procedure. Josh |
Pedal throw
One thing I've noticed about using the Dodge hydro I did, is the brake lines are on the fender side and the master has a prop valve with a warning sensor. Only downside to a Dodge master is the fittings are metric, no problem as the flares are still the same, just different threads.
http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...tons/quote.gif Bend dog I read your post on the cummins forum! Great job!!!!!!!!! You are the first that I have seen to notch the frame enough to accept the stock dodge ac compressor. Back on topic I am doing a 78 super cab conversion and am using the 97 dodge hydro boost that came with my donor truck. When I was measuring the stroke of the ford pedal it moves the pushrod 1 1/4 inch, the dodge pedal has 2" of stroke. The ford standoff on my truck multiplied the stroke with the lever to 2". But then the m.c. ran into the air horn. My question is did you mount your hydro boost to the fire wall without the lever apparatus. I am not sure what the effect would be with the shorter stroke? Hope this make sense? Thanks Hydropower |
I never coud find what year of SD hydroboost you used. Didnt they start building the SD's in the late 80's or early 90's??? And they still build them so that gives you a pretty wide range. Any help would be appreciated.
Originally Posted by ford390gashog
(Post 7777652)
So I got really tired of the braking system on my 76 F-250 SuperCab 2WD:mad:. I had replaced everything multiple times and it still was not that good. So I decided to do a HydroBoost conversion. Some people put way to much thinking effort into this conversion but its really is not that hard. I decided to just jump into it and get it done!All the parts I used can be found at a local parts store or junkyard I got mine from a junkyard.:-jammin
Parts list F-450 HydroBoost found on the F-SuperDuty trucks $24.00 HyrdroBoost mounting bracket from F-450 $2.00 Both pressure lines from the F-450! $19.00 Master Cylinder "NEW at NAPA" for 79 F-350 SuperCab $31.00 Power Steering Pump from the F-450 $ 20.00 Bulk High pressure 3/8'' oil cooler hose 6' $28.00 That will give you the main parts you need to get. Other parts such as clamps and oil are common sense. The install went very well and almost ZERO fab work. First remove the pushrod from the brake pedal inside the truck.Make sure you keep the stock bolt, bushing and nut you will be reusing these. Now go and remove the master cylinder and set it aside. Start unbolting the vacuum booster, start by removing the 4 nuts on the rear of the unit that hold it on to the brackets. Now remove the two brackets that held the booster to the firewall and keep the bolts you will reuse them. Go ahead and remove the black plastic dust cover that mounted between the booster and the firewall and discard. You now have a fresh start all the parts are off the truck and you are ready to mock up the HydroBoost.First start by removing the 4 studs in the HydroBoost bracket and discard them. The F-450 mounting bracket has to be removed from the HydroBoost and flipped 180 degrees to do this remove it and you will see a small tang. Just make sure you do not flip the bracket the flush side without the edges goes towards the firewall. Notice how the factory just cut a groove in the threads on the rear of the HydroBoost for the tang to fit. Go ahead and cut a new slot on the other side and make sure it is straight if not your booster will sit crooked. Now go ahead and put the mount back on the rear of the HydroBoost and tighten the nut and put the snap ring on. Take two of the stock bolts that went to the firewall and put them in the top 2 holes of the HydroBoost now bolt the hydro boost to the firewall. You will notice the bottom two holes need to be slotted upwards, mark them with a pen and remove the booster. Use a die grinder and create the slots in the bracket. Once done put all 4 bolts in and tighten down. Go inside and hookup the pushrod to the pedal. The pushrod has two sides to it one is flat the other has a bump you want the flat side towards the pedal. Reuse the stock bolt bushing and nut and tighten. Go and start running the pressure lines, the stock HydroBoost line will thread into your stock steering gear so no problems there. You will have to get creative and do some gentle:-X21 bending of the tubes to adapt them to fit in these trucks. But they will fit. So one line goes from the pump to the left hand port on the HydroBoost then the right hand port goes to the steering gear. Depending on if you got the power steering pump with two return lines will determine how you will have to run the return lines. Run one return line from the stock PS cooler output to the pump then run the HydroBoost return line to the other return port on the pump (if you don't have 2 return ports on the pump just tee all 3 lines together). You're almost done go ahead and fill the PS reservoir (you may have to do it a few times after initial start once the are bubbles work their way out) bleed all the brakes. Go ahead and start the truck and check for leaks and test out your new braking power!:-jammin |
Hey First Post, I was searching the internet for info on a hydro conversion for my 77. My booster went bad and I already ordered the 78 F350 dual diaphram MC combo but I would really like to ditch my vacum pump(diesel conv) and go hydro. My 77 has a bracket from the pedal to the booster, the booster does not directly attach itself to the pedal. I am trying to figure out which version, early or late SD, since the rod is shorter or longer. This does seem to be the most comprehensive thread on a hydro conv to a dent but this pertinent info I did not see.
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this is the bracketry in mine, it looks like this member kept it in place. Is this the best wat to do it on a 77?
From FTE gallery... https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...193244.520.390 |
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...170466&width=0
This allows you to bolt to the firewall using existing holes and keep it close for max clearance. |
ford390gashog - Thanks for the great write-up and thread. I just found a guy up here that is thinking about parting out his 94 F-450 Super Duty. If he does and does not want an arm and a leg for the stuff, I will have it soon. If not, I will then just start buying new pieces, one piece at a time.
Between this and a Red-Head steering gearbox (hopefully next year), this baby should be steering and stopping real good. |
Dont get screwed like me
No where I researched did I come across the fact the the new HD units do not come with the rod-spring-spring holder! Although my HD unit was for a f450 I had to find those items in the junkyard off a astro van, there fore I was forced to use a astro MC and had to do major line changes and stuff.
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Originally Posted by 84td
(Post 11101481)
No where I researched did I come across the fact the the new HD units do not come with the rod-spring-spring holder! Although my HD unit was for a f450 I had to find those items in the junkyard off a astro van, there fore I was forced to use a astro MC and had to do major line changes and stuff.
Josh |
just runa gm saginaw box and a gm hydroboost and pump and be done with it, allot better then the ford pump and steering box anyhow. crossover steerign while yoru at it.
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any one have a pic of how its all plumbed up
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Nice thread. I am interested in putting a hydroboost setup in 1978 F250 4x4. It would be nice if I can see how the lines to & from the hydroboost to the power steering pump are routed so that way I can do the same thing.
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Bueller? Bueller? Anyone?
I'd like to see this as well! Surely someone here has a diagram or pics of the plumbing between the hydroboost, steering pump and gearbox... I know there are other threads about the HB conversion, but I'd like to see more/better pics and information. |
Glad to find this thread, already got the HB out of a 94 F-450 and one of the lines, the pump and other line were junk from a wreck.
Putting this in my 78 CCSB and debating on which pump to go with, I may go pull the entire serpentine system off a newer 460 and get my pump and alternator upgrade in one shot. |
Got my booster installed today. Still need to run the lines and get a different master cylinder. A few things that I ran into were, the factory mount bolt with the star washer had too big of a head/washer to fit in the lowere right mounting hole straight, so I used a one of the 1/2" head Starter mounting bolts as it is the same threads and length with the smaller head and a lock washer. Also in order to put the notch in the booster for the safety tab on the mounting plate (flipping the plate require a new notch 180 deg from old) I was able to use a 1/8" drill bit on my cordless and at about a 20 deg angle and "machined" a new groove, turned out great, I wouldn't dare try this with cheap bits.
While searching for an actual photo of the pluming I found this GREAT write-up/install on Pirate4X4 Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world. |
1 Attachment(s)
[IMG]http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psrm7tpev8.jpg[/IMG]
Attachment 199315 Been running my for a while now and LOVE it. The best vehicle mod I've ever done to anything! |
Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
(Post 14111169)
Been running my for a while now and LOVE it. The best vehicle mod I've ever done to anything!
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So, the hydroboost units from Ford trucks and Chevy Astro vans definitely work.
The pick and pull near me has quite a few Chevy full size trucks and full size vans. I know some of them had hydroboost as well. Has anyone tried to use one of those or are they too different? |
I'm not sure of the mounting pattern, MC mounting or pushrod length on the GM unit. However I do know that the GM units use Metric threads for the fittings so either way you would have to adapt that.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by mdlave
(Post 14394519)
So, the hydroboost units from Ford trucks and Chevy Astro vans definitely work.
The pick and pull near me has quite a few Chevy full size trucks and full size vans. I know some of them had hydroboost as well. Has anyone tried to use one of those or are they too different? I also had to shorten the pedal rod 3/4 of an inch. Attachment 198909 |
Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
(Post 13330379)
Got my booster installed today. Still need to run the lines and get a different master cylinder. A few things that I ran into were, the factory mount bolt with the star washer had too big of a head/washer to fit in the lowere right mounting hole straight, so I used a one of the 1/2" head Starter mounting bolts as it is the same threads and length with the smaller head and a lock washer. Also in order to put the notch in the booster for the safety tab on the mounting plate (flipping the plate require a new notch 180 deg from old) I was able to use a 1/8" drill bit on my cordless and at about a 20 deg angle and "machined" a new groove, turned out great, I wouldn't dare try this with cheap bits.
While searching for an actual photo of the pluming I found this GREAT write-up/install on Pirate4X4 Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world. |
EP145
Since you went with the GM Booster you can get the Saginaw pump and mount off a Ford van with the 351W and use a GM line from the pump to Booster as it will have the correct fittings on both ends. This will leave you to deal with the fitting difference between the booster and your steering box but it's a start and the Saginaw was a good upgrade on mine. |
Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
(Post 14395377)
EP145
Since you went with the GM Booster you can get the Saginaw pump and mount off a Ford van with the 351W and use a GM line from the pump to Booster as it will have the correct fittings on both ends. This will leave you to deal with the fitting difference between the booster and your steering box but it's a start and the Saginaw was a good upgrade on mine. |
2000 excursion
This is a great thread, with lots of good information. I am putting Hydroboost in my 73 F250 4x4. I put a axle from a 77 crew cab with dual piston calipers in my truck to get rid of the front drums. The vacuum system stops me, but does not lock up the tires if needed. I was wondering if a Hydroboost system from a 2000 Excursion diesel would work? I could get a good deal from a coworker who bought back his wrecked Excursion, and he is parting it out. I was wondering if anyone has looked into using these parts. Would the holes be a little off like the F series trucks for this year? I will also be getting the pedal system if it will work. Any information would be great.
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Way late reply, but the expedition ones are the same as the Superduty ones of the same vintage. I have the hysroboost unit from a 2001 superdookie in my '74 crew cab project, but the project is a long term one that isn't running yet and therefore I can't personally couch for anything other than it can be made to fit. Pretty sure other guys have used these with no problems though.
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Hydroboost Question
Thanks for all of the helpful info in your hydroboost post. There are some differences between my truck and yours, so I have a few questions. It sounds like you at least had power brakes and front discs from the factory. I have manual drums on all 4 corners on my '63. Will the super duty hydroboost set up work with the super duty master cylinder? I do not plan on using a proportioning valve....just an adjustable Wilwood pressure reducer going to the rear brakes and full pressure running to the fronts.
Thanks |
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