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GREATNESS
I know this thread was started 2 years ago but I just got around to looking into why my window would not open. This little trick worked for me. So happy. It's a beautiful day and I can open the rear window for the first time in years. Thanks for your tip.
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Originally Posted by tboneturner
(Post 10872777)
I know this thread was started 2 years ago but I just got around to looking into why my window would not open. This little trick worked for me. So happy. It's a beautiful day and I can open the rear window for the first time in years. Thanks for your tip.
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Brilliant
Absolutely Brilliant! Bought and 05 Screw Lariat last week where the slider didn't work and as a result of this simple fix you documented, it now works. Thanks!!
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I just got my 05 window working too. I had to pull the back of the seat out. I learned that today also.
Me and another guy tried to figure out how to get the back seat back off a few years ago and couldn't figure it out. We were going to try and put a amp back there. The video is great. |
best post in a while
i got into swapping the struts and shocks yesterday and decided to tackle this sliding rear window issue that i have had for about 3 years now. wish i wouldv'e seen this post before. i've got the 2004 FX4 which has the solid leather rear seat. if you follow this video it should take 5 minutes. it takes a few good pulls on the passenger side to break it free. pull straight up by leaning your shoulder into the back rest. only thing different i would suggest is to continue to lift up on the passenger side for leverage to break the drivers side free as there appears to be two clips on that side. i felt for the bump behind the felt and lightly tapped on it with a hammer while i used my other hand to work the switch. first shot and i was amazed that the window opened.:-jammin these trucks are notorius for having leaking rear windows (car wash or heavy driving rain) and i thought for sure the window motor was shot due to water getting down behind the seat. vacuumend the track and lubed the cable up real good with a q-tip and some air tool oil. the window works like new.
thanks guys, this tip probably save me a few hundred.
Originally Posted by BatteriesNotINCL
(Post 10557373)
I have a good idea how moisture is getting back there...I did all the custom work and posted a vid on how to remove your back seat. In the back there are 'pressure relief' vents in the back. They aren't the heaviest plastic vents so they open with a simple door closing.
It could be quite possible that they are allowing some type of condensation into the rear of your seats and since there is a 'back drop' behind the seat you would never see it unless you removed it like me to install an amp...it now makes sense why there was some buildup on the amp terminals.... Check out my vid and pause it at 1:37, you will see a small black shadow just to the right of the amp..there is your 'window of oportunity.' <IFRAME height=349 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KeUcR0faIMw" frameBorder=0 width=425 allowfullscreen></IFRAME> Hope this helps!, And I'm Going to try it out and see if tappin' it will get it goin again! |
Mine worked for a while. Now it quit again. Its easy to fix, except I almost pulled my milk getting the seat out.
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Hey there. I cant seem to find the "bump" even though I am pressing hard. Behind my armrest is a hard fiber board with not a lot of give.The lights dim so I know I'm on the right track. Do you know if they redesign the 2011? Maybe I have to remove the seat.
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Sorry but that didn't work for my 2011 Lariat. Motor change? The dealer replaced the switch and it's working. Stupid thing is that I had the switch out and could have easily replaced it but it would have cost me more than my $100 deductible (ext warranty) for them to diagnose and not fix. Thanks anyway.
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Worked! 2005 Lariat
This thread is now 5 years old, but your tip worked for me today. It took about a dozen pretty hard whacks with a hammer. I was about to give up, but with a really good pop while pressing the switch the window zipped open like it was brand new. Added some silicone lube to both sides of the cable like mentioned by some and wahoo! Thanks krane operator.:-X22
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Neat trick but agree with other poster who advised not to use WD40 to lubricate cable. WD40 is primarily a solvent and water displacer (ie WD). The lubrication effect comes from the solvent and is short lasting. It will actually attract moisture. Should use a true lubricant such as silicone, grease or graphite based product to lube cable.
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The knocking and banging worked for me as well. I bought a new motor and cable set but I could not figure out how to release the cable ends from their fits at the window pane. I came on the site to see if there was a post on how to replace and was directed to this thread. I gave a couple of knocks and off it went without issue. Lubricated the track and cables with Silicone lube and it operates great. We will see how long she goes. At least I have a spare if needed. Rhys.
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Thank you for this post. I'm about to go outside and give this a try.
Wish me luck guys....Thank you.. |
Originally Posted by 05_AlexF150
(Post 15502993)
Thank you for this post. I'm about to go outside and give this a try.
Wish me luck guys....Thank you.. Pull out the back seat is a PITA though.:( |
Has anyone on here replaced the motor and cable set. Interested on how the cables are fitted. I cannot find anything on a search or videos on the net. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks, Rhys.
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Originally Posted by builderrhys
(Post 15503878)
Has anyone on here replaced the motor and cable set. Interested on how the cables are fitted. I cannot find anything on a search or videos on the net. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks, Rhys.
- Remove back seat. - Remove felt liner And the whole motor and cable is exposed. |
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