Red Head Steering gear box installed
 

Getting tired of the slopping steering and adjusting the steering gear box all I could (or dared) I decided to install a new steering box from Red Head Steering (Red-Head Steering Gears, Seattle WA - Red-Head Steering Gears Home ).

After installation there was a huge improvement in steering. I'm happy that I can finally go down the road and not weave all over the place.

I wrote up a removal installation article with pics if anyone is interested.

Attachment 15562

Great to hear that we have another choice for the gear boxes. I have a '05 F350 6.0L PS with a gear box that first went out at 25,000 mi and now again at 91,000 the second FORD gear box is going out again. Most of these miles are easy hwy miles with only a few city pot hole miles.

Keep us updated as to the long term reliability.

Can you post the link to the install/removal article?

I am interested in the install/removal article as well. Monster what is the part # from Red-Head?

You've peaked my interest here. I see these are rebuilt. Are they rebuilt Ford units with beefed up internals or something?

If you don't mind me asking, what did this set you back?

I only have had it installed a few days but I'll let you guys know as time wears on how it's holding up.
The removal and install is straight forward since the box is a stock housing. I figured alot of guys get to the point of needing to replace theirs as well so this will give you an idea of what to do even if you buy a different box. I'll post it in this thread soon.

2764NBS is for a 36 spline box. You may have a 32 spline box spline since only some of the 1999 and 2000 MY trucks had 36. I'll explain in my write up how to tell the differance.

According to Harvey the owner of Red Head he rebuilds each box by hand and custom fits each parts to insure the tightest fit. I do not know if you would consider that beefed up but for sure it will be better then most other reman boxes.
Price was $305. The 32 spline box was less but I don't remember the price. Out the door price was $476 with a $100 of that the core charge. I also asked for return shipping of the core to be prepayed.

Below are the removal and installation steps I did for my 2000 F250 but should apply to all 1999-2004 F250/F350/Excursion as well.

Ordering:
When I placed my order with Red Head Steering (1-800-808-1148) they stated some 1999 and 2000 Model Year trucks came with either 32 or 36 spline output shafts. They asked which one I had and of course I had no idea. They suggest the easiest way to tell is count the number of teeth between the wide pitman arm alignment gaps (there are two) of the output shaft. 8 teeth indicates it 32 spline and 9 indicates it’s 36. I was easily able to do this with the steering box in the truck and the pitman arm mounted by turning the steering wheel all the way to the right and using a small pick to count the teeth.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=217765&.jpg

Materials:
Besides the steering box the material list is rather small.
2 quarts ATF fluid
Red thread lock
Cotter pin
Zip ties
Small length of hose (about the size to fit over the input and return lines)

Tools:
The tools needed are also pretty minimal. Some of the socket sizes are based on aftermarket replacement parts (such as the drag link) so they may be different in your case.
Jack and jack stands
13MM socket
14MM socket
21MM socket
34MM socket (for pitman arm nut which is actually SAE but I did not have the right size)
16MM flare nut wrench (a regular wrench will work fine as well)
Pitman arm puller (you’ll need proper socket or wrench size for your puller)
Breaker bar
Torque wrench
Bench vise
Needle nose pliers
Side cuts
Hammer

Removal:
Removal is pretty straight forward.
1.) Lift front tires off the ground and support each side with a jack stand. Do not work under or around truck if not properly supported by jack stands!
2.) Remove negative battery cable.
3.) Turn ignition key to “run” position so the steering wheel is unlocked.
4.) Loop seat belt through lower part of steering wheel and buckle it to keep the wheel from moving while the steering shaft is in hooked from the steering box. WARNING: The clock spring can be damaged if you have the steering shaft disconnected and the steering wheel is turned too much in one direction. This is why it is important to immobilize the steering wheel as much as possible to avoid turning it.
5.) Remove and discard cotter pin from crown nut on the top of the pitman arm that holds the drag link. Remove nut with 21MM socket.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=217767&.jpg

6.) Slide the Pitman arm puller over the arm and center it over the drag link bolt/pin. Crank down on the puller and the drag link will pop off. To keep the drag link off the floor and out of the way I zip tied it to the tie rod.
7.) Remove air intake filter housing using 13mm socket.
8.) Remove shield over steering shaft by popping it off the return line and up the steering shaft.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=217768&.jpg

9.) Removed steering shaft pinch bolt using 13mm socket.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=217769&.jpg

10.) Slide up lower steering shaft up and off of steering box input shaft. I had to prying between the gear box and the end of the steering shaft to get it to come off.
11.) Place oil pan under the truck and position it under the steering box.
12.) Loosen and slide up the nuts on the input and return lines using 16MM flare nut or regular wrench. Do not pull the lines out of the steering box until you have both nuts loosened. I made this mistake and got fluid all over. Once they are both loose pull one line out and slide the hose over it. Pull the other line out and slide the other end over it. Zip tie the hose on to make sure it doesn’t slide off. This will keep fluid from leaking all over the place.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=219180&.jpg

13.) Remove two of the three bolts on the driver’s side frame that hold the box in place using 14MM socket. Loosen the remaining bolt but do not remove it until you are in place to support the steering box. If you are not prepared to support the box it can drop to the floor! Once the last bolt is removed the box will drop down and slide out from the bottom.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=219181&.jpg

14.) Remove the Pitman arm by mounting the steering box by the Pitman arm in a bench vise. Use a breaker bar and a 34MM socket (or equivalent SAE socket) and remove the nut holding the arm on. You can also use an air impact like I did instead of a breaker bar. Save nut and lock washer for installation.
15.) Slide the pitman arm puller over the arm and center over the output shaft. Start cranking down on the puller. Even using an air impact I had to bang on the pitman arm a few times with a hammer while cranking on the puller. With a little bit of work the pitman arm popped off.


Installation:
Before beginning the installation make sure the steering box is centered. I checked with the folks at Red Head Steering and they said the box was already centered. Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal.
1.) Reinstall Pitman arm by tapping the arm back on the output shaft and then remounting it in a bench vise by the arm. Apply red thread lock to the output shaft and reinstall lock washer and nut and torque nut to 199 ft-lbs.
2.) Apply red thread lock to the three bolts that hold the steering box to the frame.
3.) Slide the gear box back into truck from the bottom and support it while you install the bolts. It’s easiest to start with the bottom front bolt and then use this as a pivot point to start the other bolts. Torque bolts to 59 ft-lbs (45 ft-lbs for 1999 MY).
4.) Reinstall the steering shaft by wiggling it onto the input shaft of the steering box as far as you can. Then tapping (hammering) on the back side and top of the rubber spring of the steering shaft. Apply red thread lock to the pinch bolt and torque to 36 ft-lbs.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=219182&.jpg

5.) Before reinstalling the input and return lines check that each line has a small rubber o-ring at the seat near the end of the line. Without these o-rings you may have a leak. Remove the zip ties and hose looping the lines together.
6.) Once you check the o-rings reinstall the lines by pushing the lines on the steering box and tightening the nuts.
7.) Reinstall the steering shaft shield.
8.) Reinstall the drag link to the pitman arm by tapping (hammering) it back into place. Reinstall the crown nut and torque to 66 ft-lbs (60 ft-lbs 1999 MY). Install new cotter pin. You may need to adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel again.
9.) Reinstall air intake filter housing.
10.) Reattach negative battery lead.
11.) Fill the power steering reservoir to the proper level.
12.) Start the engine and bleed the system by cranking the steering wheel from lock to lock several dozen times. Do not hold the steering wheel against the locks for more than several seconds. Recheck fluid level.
13.) Remove jack stands and lower front tires back down.
14.) Look at your pretty new Red Head Steering box and enjoy the slop free steering.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=219183&.jpg

Great post, thanks, I know what I am doing when i get that urge to correct the wondering front end.

Great writeup! This would be a good one for the tech folder.

Thanks guys! Hope some of find it helpful when you go to replace your steering boxes. A correction: Removal step 12 ignore where it says see photo in step 8. I was going to do one photo for both step 8 and 12 but I ended up doing one for step 12. I forgot to change the text after I did.

Spent the day today running around getting mulch, hauling dirt and other tasks. I would normally dread driving around that much since my truck wondered so much. Now it's a pleasure to drive around. It's like having a different truck. I wish I would have done this a long time ago.

Excellent write-up! Rep's given!:-drink

how much can i adjust my steering box?

To be safe you can go about a 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time until it feels tighter. After a few of these turns it stops making any differance. You'll also get to a point where the adjustment bolt will turn stiffer and that means you gone a little to far.

Adjusting a steering box is just a band-aid. You'll eventually need to replace the box.

ok, thanks

Thanks for the write-up. It's definately going into my favorites/bookmarks.........reps given :)

Great write-up!!! I think my truck might be a candidate for this pretty soon.

Here is the website: Red-Head Steering Gears, Seattle WA - Red-Head Steering Gears Home

Thanks for the nice writeup. My steering is starting to feel loose. May have to do this soon.

So far this steering box has been worth it. My wife drove my truck for the first time since replacing it. Even she was amazed at the difference and promised not to complain about the money I spent on it anymore!

If I ever get married I'm definitely buying one of those steering boxes! :-missingt Just kidding...

That would be great if that was all it took to keep them happy.:-missingt

Great write up. Can't help but wonder if a cooler would help the steering boxes last longer.

The PS system does have a cooler (all be it little) but I don't think temps have much to do with the box going bad. According to the guys at Red Head it's just part wear and part high tolerances in manufaturing that lead to a sloppy handeling steering box after awhile.

Thanks for the info & pics. The pitman shaft on my truck snapped a couple of day ago & this looks like the way to go.

You're welcome. I was actually going to update this thread with my latest mod. I installed a filter on the return line. Can't say it was my idea.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ing-flush.html

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I just realized in step 4 that I never gave this warning:

The clock spring can be damaged if you have the steering shaft disconnected and the steering wheel is turned to much in one direction. This is why it is important to immobilize the steering wheel as much as possible to avoid turning it.

It only takes a few revolutions of the wheel for damage to happen. It's easy to do when you are wrestling with the steering shaft. Also if the steering wheel is not centered lock to lock and you put everything back together you can damage the clock spring when you turn full lock.

any issues with turning of the steering gear while installing the pitman arm?

No, just get it on the right spline.

I'm really starting to look into this now. I always have to hold my wheel slightly to the left because it will not track straight, and overall, the steering has a lot of wander to it. Very terrible.

Now that you've had it long term, what are you thinking?

Who? Sounds like you have a steering problem to track down. Camber good? Wheels snug on hub?

No problem with that but make sure the box is centered lock to lock before you mount it in the truck. Otherwise you might not be able to turn all the way in one direction.

The drag link can be adjusted to recenter the steering wheel. It make take a few tries to get it just right but it's simple to do. Loosen the two bolts in the adjuster and twist it one direction or the other to center the steering wheel. Retighten the bolts and go for a spin. Rinse and repeat as needed.

So far it's worth every penny. Keep in mind I pretty much replaced everything else in the steering system (expect for pump) before replacing the box because there was so much slop in everything. The steering box was the biggest improvement.

You can try adjusting the steering box itself before going through the expense of replacing it. On top of the steering box is a lock nut and hex head bolt. Loosen the nut and turn the bolt 1/8 to a 1/4 turn. Tighten the lock nut back down. Go for a spin and see if that helps. You can do this adjustment a few times but you do not want to get the adjustment bolt to tight otherwise you can bind the steering box up. Also this is usually considered a band-aid for a worn out box.

Also you want check the rest of the steering system for issues. Check the drag link, tie rods and ball joints for slop and woren parts. Have the alignment checked and give you tires an inspection as well. Any of these or all these can be the root of your problem as well as the steering box.

Naw. Everything is basically tight under there. Have replaced many of the parts, but I am going to try that box tightening method as well as rotating the drag link.

Great write up. Reps on the way.

Seems to be common thing. Went through the same process. Ball joints and bearings -> Tie rod and ends... now I'm to the steering box and it looks like there might actually be some shaft play (side to side, not just rotational). Going to try the adjustment hex screw first to see if it helps - but looks like it's probably just worn. Anyone know how likely the steering box is to fail completely if it's work - or will it just keep getting most slop until I can't stand it anymore? (it'll influence how quickly I set aside cash for a new box.)

Also - is there anything beefier than a read head - or that's pretty much it without spending an arm and a leg? I've heard good things about them so far.

Isn't the Red Head just a rebuilt stock box? They just keep getting sloppier until you can't stand it anymore but you should be able to gain some ground with the adjustment.

Check out this kit... $1,542.06

ORU Hydraulic Ram Steering Assist March 1999-2004 Ford F250/F350 Superduty w/Diesel Engine - Ford Hydraulic Ram Assist - Off Road Unlimited

Special Note: The price of this item includes a CORE CHARGE of $450.00. The Core Charge will be refunded once we get your Steering Box back and its still in good condition and re-builldable.
ORU's Hydraulic Ram Assist helps low speed maneuvering in tight spaces with large tires which can require more input at the steering wheel than most are able, (or willing) to give. This Ram-Assist system puts additional hydraulic force on the tie rod, which alleviates stress at the steering box and frame. With our ram-assist installed, you'll be able to turn 44" tires at a dead stop! The system retains all your factory steering linkage, which makes it legal for street use in all states. Most kits require minor welding and a steering box core charge.

http://www.offroadunlimited.com/orus...log/70040l.JPG

Wow. I get turned on just reading the description. Excellent find Furian. I wish I had some way to justify it on a 2wd. *grin*

Saving the info on that to a separate "when my budget is appropriately manly" file.

Apparently... I should "spread reps". This is however deserving.

Edit: I'll try adjusting my worn box tomorrow - and report back whether or not it helps - since I haven't heard mention of someone else actually watching the shaft move side to side yet. :-)

Ha! I didn't realize that your Super Duty was 4X2... my bad. Let us know what you discover! 8D

This write up is a great Tech Article. Rep points on the way.....

Yes but it is hand rebuilt with custom spec-ed parts to insure a high quality rebuild. Good luck finding anything that is not rebuilt other than an orginal pulled from a junker. At least with Red Head you know it's not a spray and pray like most "rebuilds".

Nice find but to bad it's $1000+.

Yes and no, in the same way a BTS 4R100 is just a rebuilt transmission.