HPOP Replacement Instructions/ Procedures
 

I got a quote from a shop saying $1600 + tax and i figured i know enough about cars i can do it my self and spend the money im saving on and egr cooler bypass, external oil filter, head studs, tuner and injector/glow plug seals while im doing all this work to prevent future problems. So, does anyone know where i can get some good instructions on the removal? Does the haynes or chiltons have it in their manual? I did a search on this site as well as on yahoo to try and find a write up but i couldn't. So if no one can give me a write up i'll probably end up doing one just so people that are mechanically inclined enough wont have to get ripped off paying $80/hr for labor. Thanks Guys

just a heads up, I have not found anything in Haynes or Chilton's that's worth the cost of the manual for 6.0 diesels. :-X18

yeah, thats why i figured i'd ask before i went and wasted my money.

Personal opinion but I think the 6.0 is either too complicated for the gearheads at Haynes or Chiltons, Or they don't want to produce a manual that would probably cost a 100 bucks.

Replacing the HPOP is not an easy, but not a real hard job either. If you are comfortable with wrenches - and I'm sure you are, and if you are not afraid to run into difficult situations under the hood, you will enjoy it.
I do not have a step by step instructions, and since I worked over 12 hours today, I would like to skip write one, and I'm just going to point out those steps whats necessary for it.

Even though it doesnt seem to be in your way, to remove the de-gas bottle is one of the first steps - after the battery cables of coarse. Also remove the air filter, intake pipes and the driver side battery tray, because removing the CAC tubes make the job way easier. After that you can easily remove the FICM, and make yourself room to get to the turbocharger and the Y pipe clamps behind it. Since the HPOP located under it, you have to pull the turbo too, and it could be a tight pop out. 3 bolts holding it, the driver side one is "hidden" from the back side.
To make it a little easier, I'd remove the oil filter housing before, 4 star bolts holding it. Your intake manifold has a loop on the back - under the turbo mount, and it makes the HPOP not accessible with it in place, so you have to pull the intake manifold. It takes technically removing everything what mounted on it. Pull your alternator - since it mounted on the intake manifold, and at least remove the fuel lines from the upper fuel filter. Now you do have a lot of room to get your turbo out. Disconnect the wiring from the injectors, sensors on top of engine and the ICP, IPR and just put it aside. I believe now you are at the point to remove the intake manifold bolts, and pull the manifold. YOU DO PULL THE INTAKE MANIFOLD WITH THE EGR COOLER. that's the easiest way, just take off the clamp at the up pipe at the back of the cooler, and just slide the short orange or blue hose on the EGR cooler pipe. Getting to the turbo mount bolts is a little hard, but doable. In the worst case ,if I good remember, you can remove the intake manifold bolts, lift and turn the intake manifold some to get to the mount bolts.
Now you are at the HPOP cover, from here it's no surprises. If you've got this far, I'm sure putting it back together will be easy.
Watch out for fuel lines - attached to the manifold on the front.
For the head studs, you have to dig a little deeper. If you do it for the first time on a 6.0, removing the heads will be a little time consuming. If you are interested, I could give you a couple of advice.

im pretty sure my headgaskest are good. i have heard that you can do the headstuds one at a time so you dont have to remove the heads. oh and thanks for the info.

If you lift the cab you can. But if you want to make sure that you're doing it properly, you do want to remove the heads, put in new gasket, and then you'll know it's done the way it supposed to be done. My big question would be with changing the bolts one by one is : how you do the tight down sequence properly? I mean it supposed to be tight down to 245 lb/ft in 3 steps, right? So you do the first step -80lb. Now if that is lower than the factory bolts - and it is - you do risk that the gasket brakes loose, and it won't seal.....
Maybe my theory is wrong, but if I'd install my ARP-s again, I wouldn't try to save a couple of hours, and like $100 on the gaskets, and after always wonder at a pedal-on-the-floor-with-Competition-tune , that " I hope, the gasket will hold it"..... even with studs....

What year is your truck?

its an 04'.

early 03 250 xlt 4x4 6.0 cc lwb esof front abs and stock:
are there special purpose tools needed to remove the turbo as i have read in 6.0 bilbe? where can i get the torque specs for everything that comes off if any? any thing special to do when removing fuel lines to avoid air pockets. i have an oil leak i can't seam to find but i thinks it's under the egr cooler. new egr cooler 11/08, new icp sensor 4/09. the valley is dry direclty under the turbo. i cleaned in this area best i could but want to really clean from front to back under the intake. the sides and exhaust manifolds are clean along with the upper rear aluminum gear cover. the oil drips at a tab of the block above the starter next to engine heater where i see the stacked metal gaskets sticking beyound the cylinder head and block. is this the bottom of the head and the metal gasket the head gasket known for leaking. passenger side only is leaking. i don't under stand the flow of oil and coolant totaly just yet but i was told the head gasket leaks coolant. i thaught the cylinder would have both fluids under pressure in hear. more coolant than oil. i'm a little off track but if i have a bad hp oil pump i wanted to do the same as jnobles06 with evrything off the top.

Nope. IIRC, a deep-socket 11mm for the band clamps, and a 10mm wobble socket for the turbo mounting bolts. And I can't even say now whether you really need wobble sockets or I just what was handy.

The tech folder has a fairly complete write up on removing the turbo.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...urbo-abcs.html

Just like it was mentioned, you don't really need special tools for that procedure, but make sure you have a nice set of tools from A to Z.
Your oil leak shouldn't be head gasket related. Never really heard blowing the gaskets "externally". Usually the combustion gasses pass to the coolant system, that's why coolant puking is the obvious sign to tell.
The oil leak on the passenger side head area (if the engine valley is dry ) should be valve cover gasket, possibly glow plug bus O ring(s), and maybe HPOP cover on the back side.... It also could be CKP sensor, but that is located on the front area on the engine, so I doubt it's that.

black1
i hate to ask but what does iirc stand for. i have a lot tools and always seam to add to the arsenal when doing special projects. thanks

if i recall correctly. google is your friend!. :-hijackedif you wanna ask them something then start your own thread or pm those guys.