Alternator Upgrade
 

I decided that Levi (my 2005 EB 6.0 4X4) needed a new alternator.

After a fair amount of research I settled on a brand-new 140 amp
unit from 'National Quick Start Sales".

This alternator is brand new, and uses a custom casting with a larger
case that bolt directly into the existing mounts with no modifications.

http://www.martialartsacademy.org/sept2008_021.JPG

Notice the larger size of the new unit, (left) and the smaller diameter pulley.
The smaller pulley is very important to me since I spend a lot of time rock-crawling and exploring off-road. Usually in the desert with the A/C on, plus
my short-wave radio plus all the lights if it's dark.

Often with my kids playing the PS-2 in the back.

http://www.martialartsacademy.org/sept2008_022.JPG

On my 2005 6.0 changing out the alternator takes less than 10 minutes
if you have your tools ready. Pull out on the belt and flip the lever in
the picture to lock the belt in the "loose" position.

Then three bolts, one 12V connector and the snap-in plug and it is out.

http://www.martialartsacademy.org/sept2008_027.JPG

Putting the new one in went smoothly, perfect fit, even with the
bigger, beefier, more reliable- and MUCH more powerful unit.

I put grease on the bolts, as they are threaded into aluminum, and
had to drill out the power wire loop, as the new alternator has a
5/16 lug and the stock is only 1/4 inch. I used the grease in the picture,
it is non-toxic non-staining, water proof, stable -50 to +450 degrees F*
I found out about it from the mechanic that works on my plane, great stuff!

http://www.martialartsacademy.org/sept2008_028.JPG

When all the bolts/wires were snug, I lay the belt back over the
pully, and then pulled out on the belt to release the little lever,
PRESTO, done!

Now I have a 140 amp alternator with a heavy duty rectifier bridge,
instead of a 110 amp alternator with a crappy bridge that has failed
me twice in 70K miles and 4 years.

The cost delivered to my home was $254.90.

Many more amps are available for a bit more money.

So far I am very impressed as it holds voltage at idle with everything
on and the key down on my 75 watt ham radio.

That was not possible before. And this one should last.
As I mentioned the original and the dealer-installed replacement
alternators lasted about two years and 35K miles each..

Part #F1-8253M-HD140

URL:
http://www.alternatorparts.com/Ford_...oke_Diesel.htm


I will update after I get a few long desert/baja trips under its
"belt":-X0A6 over the next month or two.


john

2005 EXCURSION LIMITED-options (everything) equipped Eddie Bauer edition 4X4 PSD
4" FabTech lift/level, Bilstein $$ mono-gas shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer
Silverstar 9005 fog and H13ST headlights + wiring mod to run high beam and fogs together,
BFG 315/75/16 AT KO's on Factory Mags, 22" front and 18" rear rain-x wipers, Auto
-zone aftermarket voltage gauge, LANDYOT Generation II Radius Rods,
Ford factory hood insulator, 140amp Large-case Alternator, Mojave Pin-Striping

Thanks for sharing!

Rep points given.

Stewart

Now you need to do the big three upgrade to make use of that power. 4ga is a good choice.

Alt. Replacement
 

If I'm not mistaken that 6.0 should have had a 140 amp installed from the factory. That being the case someone has replaced the orginial with the 110 amp previously.

Ford equipped all 7.3's and 6.0's with a "small case" 110 amp alternator, from 1999 on.

Or with dual 110's (ambulances, etc.)

Or so I am informed, my truck is a 2005, I custom ordered it new in 2004 and it definitely it came with that one.

Click the link I provided in my original post if you want more
detailed information...

john

140 amp alt.
 

I went to cars.com and looked up a 05 Excursion 6.0 and the Ford Spec's show a 140 amp as standard.
It very well could be wrong but thats what it show's.
By the way did you get a Veido VHS tape with your on the Power Stroke Diesel Engine?

It's wrong.

No video.

Interested, however...

john

I have read on eBaY auctions numerous times that you have to upgrade the output wiring if you increase the size of your alternator. If you don't, you haven't accomplished anything. I think this is what ReAX said above too.

It's in this auction too right now.... quote:
"We recommend upgrading your wire to the back of the alternator to a 4 gauge, we can make the wire for you if you purchase the alternator off of us for a additional 12.00, We just need to know how long the wire needs to be. Remember it doesn't do any good to upgrade your alternator if you don't upgrade the wiring to handle it also, so we highly recommend it."

eBay Motors: 02-03 FORD F TRUCK EXCURSION HIGH AMP OUTPUT ALTERNATOR (item 360087187925 end time Sep-15-08 22:35:21 PDT)

I think wire upgrades are a good thing. 8D
I did the math on mine, however, and I'm good:-drink

That is in part why I "only" upgraded to 140amp.

I first of all needed to replace a ruined alternator,
and the most important differences are the smaller
pulley and the beefier rectifier bridge.

Also- again follow the link if you want to get the
full story- the alternator I bought is pretty unique.

I am getting 100% of the benefits I needed without
further mods. If I was running a big sound system/lights
etc., then it would be a different story.

:-drink

john

I do not disagree with the idea of increasing the wire size(decreasing gauge of wire), BUT, by increasing the alternator output, you are increasing the system. Now, you may not get all the benefit there is but you are getting a benefit. Saying you are getting no improvement is saying the stock alternator is putting out EXACTLY what the wire can handle and we all know that to be false.

It is a good idea and at such a small cost there is no reason not to, but I do not think there will be as much of a benefit with the wire as there was with the alternator and stock wire.

Perhaps not on the charge wire, but the ground could certainly use it. I use 1/0ga when I did my alt upgrade (230amps) for the charge wire. However, the cab didn't see much change until I did the grounds in the same wire.

While the wire is sufficient, you don't mod a truck to be sufficient. A big three upgrade will help everything power easier.

ok, stupid question...what do you mean by a big 3 upgrade?

bonehead in electronics,
ian

From the12volt.com

Definition:

The "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis.

Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring.

john

I add to the stock, except for my alt after I cleaned up my distribution. Add a ground from the engine to the body and the body to the battery. Then the same sized wire from the alt to the battery and it really should be fused.

It may not seem like it, but it does help even with stock power.

No need to feel stupid about that armydude. Unless you've been doing truck electrical for awhile no average car guy is gonna know that.

This is definitely what you need to do. It's not expensive. Just run some 1/0 at these points and you'll be completely free flowing with those electrons. I plan to do this when i attempt to put e-fans on my Expedition.