86 2.3L ranger timing belt replacement help
 

I have an 86 ranger 2.3L 5spd the timing belt snapped on me in the middle of nowhere (of course) I've gotten her home took the cover off bought a new belt but she's obviously out of time...I've got the crank pulley on top dead center... I'm assuming the valve pulley timing mark lines up with the center mark on the block (correct me if i'm wrong) how do I time up the distributor? and whats the easiest way to pull the crank pulley to install the new timing belt? thx

The first message at the top of this section has tech info inside on how to replace the belt.
The camshaft sprocket has a mark on the edge that should be lined up with the pointer - somewhere around the 4 o'clock position. The key in the crankshaft will be at the top when the #1 piston is at TDC. The distributor should be pointing at the #1 plug wire.
To remove the pulley, you will need a large socket and a breaker bar or impact wrench. If you are lucky it will slide right off, otherwise you will need a puller.
To set the timing, pull the single loop of wire connector to disable the computer from adjusting the ignition timing. Set the base timing at 10btdc.
tom

The first message at the top of this section has tech info inside on how to replace the belt.

Link goes to a shutdown webpagw.

Does anyone have the information?

Thanks,
Rick

Well, that sux. I have a copy of a Word doc on my computer. Dunno where I got it. I can send it, but think it would be better to get it posted here somehow.

Anyone?

tom

Please send to rixworx@yahoo.com

Thanks!

Timing the distributer is the issue, which is done after the timing belt is on. The sprockets are the same for both the cam and auxiliary shaft, I simply set them both at the same basic direction. Then slide your distributor in and get the rotor pointing at #1. From there you can fine tune it with the SPOUT unplugged using a timing light. Not difficult, but it threw me until I realized that I could change the distrubutor's orientation. Have fun!

Bsmitty, you are totally correct in the positioning, but it is easier, I think, to line up the rotor with #1 using the aux gear. That way you don't have to pull and stab, nor get the oil pump drive shaft aligned. It is already there, and within some number of degrees of being right on.
Just a different tactic (strategy?)..