How to safely start an old flathead.
 

I have a '53 F-100 with a Flathead v-8 which has not been started in several years. I want to keep this truck stock so I take care of my engine. The motor turns fine but I want to be sure that I take all necessary steps before I try to start it.

Anything to add to this list?

1. Drain and replace coolant.

2. Drain and replace engine oil.

3. Drain and replace gasoline.

Does it make sense to pre-lube the cylinders by pulling plugs and pouring something in? What type of oil should I use for this?

Is there any way to prime the oil pump?
What are the chances that the oil pump would not work?

Any help is appreciated.

How to safely start an old flathead.
 

Hi half ton,
Glad to hear you're keeping it FLAT!!
First - draining all those fluids and replacing them is certainly a good idea.
Second - unless the engine has been disassembled since it last ran, there is likely a film of oil remaining in the bearings. So cranking/running will pull fresh oil up before anything is damaged.
If your oilpan has the large bolt-on circle that the drain plug screws into, remove it and check to see that the pump screen is clear. (Be prepared to replace the gasket on the access cover.) If the screen is full of crud, you can remove it thru the large access hole and clean it up.
In draining the old gas that has likely turned to varnish, you may find gum in the fuel tank, lines, pump, filter and carb. Don't be surprised if you need to clean it all.
Before you turn it over much or run it, its probably a good idea to pull the plugs and squirt a little motor oil into each cylinder. If you suspect that the rings might be frozen or stuck, a shot or two of something like PBlaster or Marvel Mystery Oil might help loosen things. Then fresh plugs.
After you run it much you might want to check the torque on the headbolts. They should be at 65-70#'s. Start in the center and work in a spiral toward the ends of the heads.
Let us know how it goes. - tim

How to safely start an old flathead.
 

Tim,

Thanks for the info. I'll be giving it a try next weekend.

You seem knowledgeable about this stuff so maybe you can advise me on another issue. After drilling and removing frame rivets for crossmembers and cab mounts etc, what do you use to bolt things back together. I'm using 3/8 and 7/16 NF grade 8 bolts but I'm not sure what the right answer is for nuts. Split lock washers, nylon nuts, flange nuts or what? I imagine that its not critical but I'd like to do it right.

Thanks,



Half Ton

How to safely start an old flathead.
 

Half Ton,
My expertise isn't that great - 3 years ago I bought an old pickup and began to search for what it would take to restore it or hotrod it. So I started with a complete tear-down of my 48 F1 and just this week it is officially on the road. I still have a bunch of odds and ends to finish, but that's what winter is for, right!? So take my advice with a grain of salt and a whole lot of common sense.

On the bracket bolts I'd say you're going the right direction. That's what I'd use. I followed a discussion recently about the merits of bolts versus rivets and here's what made the most sense:
Ford would have used bolts if they were cheaper than rivets.
Rodders have been using bolts as replacements for a long time with no problems.
Split lock washers and regular nuts will probably be all you'll need. Remember that the stress will be largely downward thru the cross section of the bolt rather than against the nuts.

I just did a similar replacement on radiator mounts on an 86 F150 and used bolts.

I am curious as to why you're removing the brackets - rust or relocation body parts?? Anyway, have fun. Easiest way I found was to attack them with the 4" grinder. - tim

How to safely start an old flathead.
 

Half Ton
I work for General Motors in Canada and when we have a defective shackle mount we replace the rivets with a bolt , split lock washer , and nut combination as to the grade of the bolt I don't think you need to spend the money on grade 8 bolts as the original rivets are pretty soft .
Wired

How to safely start an old flathead.
 

48 you have? Check out my site on 48's
http://www.48f-1.com

jim

How to safely start an old flathead.
 

;) I agree with wired on the bolts to replace the crossmember, have done the same thing on my 45. Jus make sure to find bolts that have shoulders the thickness of the metal (both pieces) and have areal snug fit. If you have to tap the shoulder in with a hammer, so much the better.

How to safely start an old flathead.
 

More rivet vs bolt info - wanted or not
 

A quick shout-out to mtflat, from a former Kalispell born native and a hot rodder. My career started at the now closed Anaconda Aluminum plant in Columbia Falls, working as a very junior engineer in maintenance. My boss was a great mentor and we got into a discussion about why rivets versus bolts. My reasoning was rivets are cheaper and he agreed. But he went on to explain that braces are attached to frames of cars and trucks as a structural component. The brace must always remain stationary to the frame as the frame twists when going over bumps. What the manufacturers were doing with rivets was completely filling the hole with steel, something that can't be done with a bolt. Because of these clearances, the bolt will move around in the hole and the bracket or brace becomes loose. Same is true for joints in structural steel of a building or bridge. A hot rivet will completely fill the hole that attaches 2 pieces. A bolt will squeeze the pieces together and rely on friction between the 2 pieces to keep them from moving. Yes there are structural bolts, typically classed as A325. These are a medium carbon bolt that does its job by holding 2 structures together so tightly and over such a large area that the 2 pieces cannot slide against one another. Unfortunately, that's usually not possible with frame connections. Yes a bolt can be used to replace a rivet in a frame. Just know that the tightness of the bolt needs to be checked periodically. Hence the reason that NSRA inspectors look for rust around bolts. A sure give-away that there's movement going on. Greg