Unseize an engine
 

I finally got around to playing with my '71 and surprise surprise the engine is seized from setting up so long. It turned over just a few years ago but I guess the rings are set against the cylinder wall. I've tried moving it with a wrench and bar against the pulley bolt, but it is so tight I couldn't get it to budge and nearly broke the socket.

Considering the engine did not ingest water, and is most likely just seized from setting still so long, what are my odds of loosening it up? I keep reading online of people squirting penetrating fluid in through the spark plug holes but I have yet to read of anyone have any luck with it.

Any suggestions?

I'm new to the forum, but abit of a backyard mechanic. I read your post about the frozen engine and it reminded me of the last time I had to repair one. I had a "63" galaxie 500 (2-door hard top) it had a 352 in it that had sat for over two years in Oxnard Ca. (Ocean front property :)) it didn't have any plugs, carb or distributor and was froze up tight, I squirted Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders and let it set for a couple of weeks and replaced all the missing parts. It took two batteries too start it but it broke loose and started. The more I ran that old 352 the better it got. If you go the MMO route try turning it over with the plugs out and the coil disconnected.

Glenn

It just seems a bit odd to me that it would seize up like this. The truck didn't ingested any water and has been fully assembled and parked in a shed since it last ran, so it shouldn't be so hard to break loose.

I appreciate the advice, Glenn, if the PB blaster doesn't work i'll for sure give it a try. How much did you put in each cylinder? Did you just pour it in or find a way to spray it?

It could be a weeping head gasket that seeped water into a cylinder or two... I took a 289 apart with a hammer that had that happen on several cylinders. (put together without the head dowel pins, so I was told)

I used one of the old style squirt cans and gave it two or three good squirts and of course let it soak for awhile.
Like cntdrv said, it's possible for a head gasket to seep into a cylinder, but old engines that have sat for quite awhile will sometimes freeze up, it's also possible that it had gotten condensation into the engine over time. Since it's already frozen you really don't have anything to lose by trying something in the cylinders and turning it over. The alternative is to start tearing it down.:mad:

I was able to pull 7 of the 8 plugs (one would require removing the exhaust manifold) and sprayed PB Blaster liberally inside. I did find a hint of rust on the ends of a couple of spark plugs. I guess some condensation could have gotten in through the open intake or exhaust valves. I can only pray the head gasket is still good.

I'll give it a couple more trys over the next week to see if I can free it up. I'm unfortunately not a good enough mechanic to tear down an engine so if it doesn't free up eventually I'll have to just call it a loss.

Daggum this is depressing. Until today I thought I had an engine that only needed a few tweaks to get running.

I have a pneumatic impact wrench in the toolshed. I could try that on the pully. Is there any chance that would do any good at loosening things up?

Spray and pray. Let it sit for a while with the spray in there. The nature of the impact wrench would be to tighten the bolt more, not necessarily turn the crank. Use it as a last resort.

If it's frozen up good there's a likely chance you'll damage something even if it does free up. The Marvel Mystery oil is a good trick and may work, let it set overnight. I knew some guys that had a 74 F250 4X4 with a frozen up 390, they actually put it in gear then pulled it with another truck until it broke free. It was a 4-speed manual truck. It ran after that but not very well if I recall.

if it is a straight drive ,you can try this ,put it in the highest gear that will slide the rear wheels and get several buddies to rock it forward & back [with plugs removed & belts removed from crank]. if the tires slide real easy put some weight in the trunk.keep the cylinders sprayed real good . good luck. just a reminder== when you are trying to break it loose with a socket on crank pulley bolt, make sure it is in neutral,[ easy to forget ] .

Don't mean to discourage but we recently put a qt. of Marvels in a 4 cylinder Farmall that had seized from sitting. We rocked it in high gear, drug it with another tractor after letting it set for a couple weeks.

We sold the tractor and the new owner had to pull the pan and heads to get the stuck piston out. (We were getting it ready to sale when we found it seized.)

Good luck with yours. :)


John :-X06

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Garbz

Bugger.

I let the PB Blaster set overnight, and tried pulling it off in 4th gear today. No dice.

I even put a 55 gallon barrel in the bed over the rear axle and filled it with water. Even with 500lbs weighing down on them the tires just slid. I guess I'll let it set for a couple more days before I try something else.

I've thought about putting some biodiesel in there. Its really good at eating up gunk and lubricating things so I figure it is worth a try if everything else fails.

You will have to pull a head if this works but Get a fitting for one of the plug holes that you can connect to a grease gun. Pump it up and it will force the piston down and break loose. Have done this on tractors befor it does work about 99% of the time. But like I said you will have to pull the head to clean it back out. If you are not going to rebuild this may not be your best option but it does work.

Remove all plugs, with fluids in the cylinder you do not want to turn it over with them in.

Pull the distributer (make not which way the router is pointing so you can put it back) and drive the oils pump to get things circulating.

I have used diesel fuel, fill all the cylinders and crankcase (some times not necessary) and let it soak over night. If still stuck let it soak longer. I have had some that it took a week to get freed up, so be patient other wise you will break something. I only use a break over bar on the crank, that way I can work it back in forth. Going through the tranmission you can break a piston (the land between the top ring and top). Then you will be forced to tare it down for a rebuild.

If you don't like the diesel, another good penetrating oil is Kroil. I have found it works when nothing else does.