Are you talking about the '48-early '50 and the later '50-52 boxes? My guess is the newer box was cheaper to produce, the reason Ford did a lot of stuff. Not only did ford change the box sides, they also changed the stake pockets. The later pockets were straight, less ornate than the earlier ones. They also changed the tailgates a little.

If you're talking about the '48-52 compared to the '53 and up box, my guess would be that the newer trucks were a little wider so they had to design a box that would fit the wider body style.

Wheel base on the 51/52 F1 is 114 inches. For the F2/F3 it's 122 inches. F1 thru F3 had a wheel stance of 60 " from center of rear tire to the center of the other.

It looks like it is in fact the longer wheel base. I would have never thought to check this. The way they've rigged the bed, it looks like a short bed pickup.

This pretty much kills the whole project unless you guys have any ideas.

Well, don't give up so fast!!!

One of the nicest things about these trucks is they aren't tender or sensative - you can do a lot with them. Another thing about them is they were made to swap components on and off interchangeably in a lot of cases. As a matter of fact, Ford offered a truck with only the cab and front so one could install whatever they needed in the back.

I guess the first thing you need to do is find out what it is you actually have! If you can get to the frame on the drivers side, on the top edge between the steering box and the shock absorber mount, and if it's a 51/52 frame - the serial number should be stamped there in 3/4 inch letters.

Once you have that, there will be all kinds of things you can do to get this the way you want it.

And as far as us "having any ideas" Oh man are you in trouble!

Let me know about that serial number (and don't take the ones off the glove box rating plate or firewall patent data plate) and we can look at it from there.

And OBTW Welcome to the bizzare land of the FU$%&NG "PO" (prior owner).

Boy, I don't know why you'd spend about $3-$4k to make it more original. The important thing is, you already have the more desirable and beautiful '51-'52 front end. Only 1 person in a hundred would be able to tell the bed isn't "right", and you've got a great paint job.

I'd be concerned about the bed floor; is that a sheet of plywood, or steel? What's under it? If it's a sheet of plywood with the original wood slats underneath, you're going to have major rust on the bedsides pretty shortly. Ask me how I know...

I scrapped off the paint all the way between the steering box and the shock mount. I'm not finding any VIN #.

Yeah, yeah, I know. "How could you buy a truck without first checking the VIN #?" You're right, of course (if you think this).

I'm not as upset with the prior owner as I am with myself. I know better than this.

Are there other clues on the frame (although the 122" wheel base is a pretty big clue)?

Whoever Gerry-rigged this thing did a pretty good job. It's not that obvious unless you know what you're looking at (which of course I didn't but I do now).

Was reading along here and that prompted me to doing some of my own measuring. I found that the 53 bed I plan on using measures 48 3/4" wide and the length is 79" almost an inch longer that the 48-52 bed (according to the measurements provided by sandidande), that's curious. I also have the remnants of my 48 tailgate and slapped it in the 53 bed and it seems it will also fit the 53 bed, however, it may be a little short though as the bed measures 19" high from the flange on the bed floor to the bottom of the 45 degree bend and the 48 tailgate only measures 18" high......

I think that there has been a lot of bed swapping in the past and it is likely that the majority took place in the late 60's and early 70's........along with key parties and such.......LOL

Are you looking to swap the fenders so you can install stock full length running boards? If thats the main reason, I'd just locate a couple sets of boards and custom fabricate a set that will fit the mis matched fenders. I had to do this for mine because of the extra length of the GM chassis. Otherwise why would you need to change the bed and rear fenders?

This is a picture of my Mar-K bed on my 51F1. The bed and Running boards are new.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal.../70170.520.390

Well, it's the whole package on the 51-52 that I like. I'll never be happy with a '51 from the cab forward and a '53 (sort of) from the cab back.

Don't get me wrong... the truck doesn't look bad, it's just not what I want. Chalk this one up as experience guys.

You might be better off selling it and starting over, hard to say. A new bed like 51 FordFan's is maybe $1500 complete, fiberglas rear fenders are $250 each, add in maybe $700 for paint...

I thought the serial numbers were on the passenger side behind the shock mount?

That's a very good point Ross!

I just checked the 51 Owners Manual and it agree's with you - right side - above the axel!

And that's really weird because mine is stamped into the drivers side - absolutely certain! Must have been dislexic day at Ford when they stamped mine. So DV, sorry for the wild goose chase, but try the passenger side.

PS, What is the Serial Number on your title/registration?

Vin #
 

OK, I found it. Here it is:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=186706&.jpg

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=186707&.jpg

If I'm reading this correctly, it doesn't make sense. It sems to follow the VIN# format for the 1952, but the year digit indicates it's a 51. Also, what is engine code "R"?

In case the photo is hard to read, as best I can tell the VIN# is F3-R1-BF-11116.

- Don't know what engine code "R" is.

- The "1" in "R1" doesn't look like the other 1's. Could possibly be a 7, but that wouldn't make sense either.

- Why is it following the VIN format for 52 instead of 51?

I may have an answer for one of my questions. These sections of the VIN number look like they were stamped on the frame at different points on the assembly line. If that's the case, then the stamp at one station make look a little different than the stamp at other stations. That would explain why the 1 looks different.

Still do't know what engine code R is.