No problem, I've used that site plenty of times searching for parts. Sure beats making cold calls out of the phone book all day long.

Mike

Up here in Saskatchewan, Canada it would cost me bout $2000 for all the pieces! :-bangheadI would have no problem ponying up $700 for a complete setup!

With gas and tax it cost me about that for mine. I can justify paying that much for two reasons, it was a 7,000 mile car that it was pulled from and a mustang II suspension cost upwards 2,000 bucks. So the money I would have spent on a stang 2 setup can be spent on wheels and tires.

When using the crown vic front suspension and brakes, do you have to hook up the abs or will it function propperly without it. I am looking to put this into my 1970 f-100 with 73-79 power brake booster and mastercylinder. thanks

The brakes will work just fine without the ABS sensors hooked to anything. You can either cut the wires off, or if the sensors are removable and not part of the hubs, you can just pull the sensors out completely.

If anyone in the Kansas City area is interested in using the Independent Rear Suspension as discussed earlier in this thread there is a complete setup on craigslist for $200:

COMPLETE 96 LINCOLN MARK VIII 8.8" IRS (INDEPENDENT REAR SUSPENSION)

hmmm, that's very tempting.

I have access to the IRS right now for $100 but if I'm going to do one I want to do both ends. I also have a 99 Town Car that I can get. I'm gonna go ahead and guess that this is going to be a frame stub car and not worth my time. Correct?

correct the 99 will not work at all. If you can get a IRS for 100 and the miles are not outragous go for it.

I have had an interest in this IFS for some time and after reading this thread and other material on the subject I went to the wrecking yard yesterday and checked out a 2004 Croxn Victoria for myself. The crossmemebr looks good...however, the measurements I took indicate that the flange to flange width of this IFS is 67.5 inches...that is quite a bit wider than stock and requires wheels with virtually no offset. I measured from the center of the mounting bolt that attaches the crossmember to the frame out to the flange of the rotor...this distance is 18 inches. The distance as measured from the outside of the frame to the mounting flange is 15-3/4 inches. The car I measured was sitting up on blocks so the wheels were off and no weight was on the suspension which means that the wheel hubs were at their lowest point...as the wheels go up with the weight of the vehicle on them these measurements may actually grow due a bit.
carcrafter22...thanks for taking the time to post the pictures and all your work on this effort, especially given your travel. I will be following this thread to see how the project concludes when you get to the point where you get the wheels mounted and the truck in it's final configuration.

As an added note: the car that I looked at was a 2004, there was a 2007 next to it and I noticed that the a-arms were different between the two. The 2007 were formed steel just like the pictures you have posted in this thread of your 2006; however, the 2004 uses cast aluminum a-arms. Dimensions looked the same but the aluminum arms were much thicker (as would be expected).

So I am now getting very close to dong my first mock-up of the CV frontend to my 65 and I have noticed now that there are brackets or plates on each of the trailing arms and they are twisted to the inside of the frame. It does not seem that they just twist back to straight. is there a reason for this will I need to build a shim to keep the angel that there at or is it like that to get some type of pe-load on them. Thanks ill try to get some picts up next week they will be kinda lame for now but if you guys are like me I like to see evin the lame picts of everyone elses projects.

i bought a 94 mark 8 (90,000 miles ) off of flea bay . i am in the process of stripping the rearend and i am very interested in using the 4.6 32 valve and auto tranny :-bigpartyfor my 66 short bed . (still working on the cv front end )
can someone point me to a thread or site to make this engine swap ? i am a carburator guy and never messed with fuel injection so i need a dummies guide to fuel injecton swap . also can i use the power windows , console , heated seats (leather ) or anything else from this car ? any suggestions would be appreciated . thanks rg

i bought a 94 mark 8 (90,000 miles ) off of flea bay . i am in the process of stripping the rearend and i am very interested in using the 4.6 32 valve and auto tranny :-bigpartyfor my 66 short bed . (still working on the cv front end )
can someone point me to a thread or site to make this engine swap ? i am a carburator guy and never messed with fuel injection so i need a dummies guide to fuel injecton swap . also can i use the power windows , console , heated seats (leather ) or anything else from this car ? any suggestions would be appreciated . thanks rg

The trailing arm bracket can be loosened, and make a 45 degree bracket to mount it level to the frame. It does not have to stay at that angle. Once you get it back on the ground torque the bolt to spec.

If you get all of the wiring and switches it shouldnt be a problem. But the more of the Mark 8 wiring that you use the easier the swap will go. If you plan on deleting some components you will probably need to reflash your ECM. There is a guy on here that is swapping a whole dash from a Mark into his F100. He also used the motor and trans from it as well.

Now here is the cool part. If you get a CV front end and motor mounts from a 2003 Marauder, your 4.6 32 valve motor will BOLT in. The only difference may be that you will need to drill and tap a single mount hole on the block which is there from the factory.