bio/svo in 6.0
I have a 2003 6.0. I know this year of psd has a bad rep, but I have had no trouble and have 80k. The only mods are cool air and 4" exaust. before the mods I was lucky to get 14 mpg, and am now up to 16+. I have become very interested with bio, and have had a few discouragements. I know of several guys who run svo in the 7.3's, 12v's, and the girlymaxes and have had no trouble. I have also been told the svo and bio will expand the rubber components in the fuel system and cause leaks. I have been told that I could replace those comp's for $8-1200. I'm not worried about making the fuel, but want to know the effect it will have on my truck. Any advice?
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you can run Biodiesel in your truck w/o modifications. For SVO or WVO you will need to buy or make a veggie conversion kit (usually consisting of a duel tank set up and fuel tank/line heaters). i'm not sure if you know or not but Ford only allows up to B5 so anything more can void your warrenty (you have an 03 so your 5 yrs is or almost is up)
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BTW I have run all blends of Biodiesel and my truck loves it (runs smoother, way quiter, less smoke) I use Biodiesel whenever I get a chance! Any other questions feel free to ask, we have lots of Bio Users on :-X25
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I have been running homebrew B90 for about 6 months now. No problems so far. I think the component problems are associated with older engines, say 94 and earlier.
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bio in 6.0
So what exactly is the veggie conversion kit? If it's what I think it is, it just consists of changing out all the rubber components in the fuel system to a synthetic rubber. Also, I know of several people who are running 100% veggie and are having no problems during the summer. I stays pretty warm during the summer, usually around 110. And yes, my warranty is up.
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A conversion kit is a little more involved than what you are thinking. It usually involves a 2nd heated fuel tank along with heated fuel lines and a switch to be able switch from diesel to veggie when starting up and shutting down. I have only heard great things about VegiStroke Conversions and it seems to be the best system for Powerstrokes. Check out this link http://www.dinofuelalternatives.com/ they are site sponsors and I'm sure would answer any questions you have.
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SPUK77
Ford hasn't used rubber fuel components for some time so changing those parts is not necessary. For your friends running ubheated VO, it works for a while but the rings injectors and valves eventually get coked, a build up of carbon, and the engine fails possibly catasrophicaly. I have a fairly long research paper on the dangers of running unheated VO. I tried to post it here a couple of times but it is to long. |
Originally Posted by Phydeaux88
SPUK77
Ford hasn't used rubber fuel components for some time so changing those parts is not necessary. For your friends running ubheated VO, it works for a while but the rings injectors and valves eventually get coked, a build up of carbon, and the engine fails possibly catasrophicaly. I have a fairly long research paper on the dangers of running unheated VO. I tried to post it here a couple of times but it is to long. I have been running B50 with no problems even down to the mid 20 deg. Motor runs very smooth. |
I have found the easiest way to pass it on is by e-mail.
If you want it PM your addy |
Originally Posted by tazo
I would be interested reading your report. If you still want to post it maybe it could be done in several posts?
I have been running B50 with no problems even down to the mid 20 deg. Motor runs very smooth. Vegetable Oil/SVO/WVO= French Fry grease straight out of Fryer, Usually requiring Major Fuel heating modifications for running straight grease below 30 Degrees. If its going to stay above 30, and you use HIGH QUALITY, non hydrogenated, non lard, Good veggie oil, you can run with only minor modifications, usually only a simple heated fuel filter off of an 18 wheeler. I personally would not run SVO in a 6.0, they have enough problems of their own without our help, but like you said, yours seems to be ok so far. Go for it, It is not required to get the oil to 180-200 like most say, simply getting it to 120-130 will get the job done. |
Thank you for all your advice on the svo, bio subjects. I know I am probably pushing my luck with considering either choice in my 6.0, but with fuel priced going to 3.79/gal this past week, it is very tempting. I am still not clear on the processed bio. I know it is easier to run, in that it does not require pre-heating, but the guy I talked to that sold it is the one that told me that it will expand the "rubber components" in the fuel system. And, I also talked to a guy locally that runs svo filtered down to 5- microns in his 99 7.3, w/o preheating. Is there something different about the 6.0, where it gets the build up of carbon. The 7.3 owner has run the svo for over 60k, and says there are no problems. I am considering that route, and replacing the 6.0 and looking in to other options, like a cummins, and possibly a cat.
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You are not pushing your luck with BD.
Your truck will like it better than #2 Ford has not used rubber lines, seals, or O-rings for quite some time so that is not a problem. Coking with unheated VO is a problem with ALL modern diesels not just the 6.0, your friend has been lucky so far but is likely to take a hard fall in the future. Like I said before if you want the research paper PM your e-mail addy |
Originally Posted by AndysFords
Biodiesel= Vegetable oil processed with Methanol and Lye into a completely different, thinner substance, that requires no modification to the vehicle.
Vegetable Oil/SVO/WVO= French Fry grease straight out of Fryer, Usually requiring Major Fuel heating modifications for running straight grease below 30 Degrees. If its going to stay above 30, and you use HIGH QUALITY, non hydrogenated, non lard, Good veggie oil, you can run with only minor modifications, usually only a simple heated fuel filter off of an 18 wheeler. I personally would not run SVO in a 6.0, they have enough problems of their own without our help, but like you said, yours seems to be ok so far. Go for it, It is not required to get the oil to 180-200 like most say, simply getting it to 120-130 will get the job done. |
Thank you Phydeaux88 for all your help. I would love to read the info you have offered, but do not know your email. When I went to "send email" on your post, it told me that I am not allowed access to that page. Maybe it is because I am a relatively new member. I'm sure you probably don't want to post your address, maybe there is another way?
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spuck
right click on my name at the top of this post then select "send a private message" |
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