Fuel bowl Heater element Replacement
 

Has anyone changed this , Im thinking of doing it myself but not sure of how hard the job is, any input would be appreciated, Thanks Lou

Well, no response yet so I will bump it. Why are you changing it?

Lou, not hard at all. Ill walk you through it.


1. drain fuel bowl.
2. unplug fuel bowl heater from back of fuel bowl
3. remove filter
4. using a T-20 torx driver unscrew the two screws holding the plate down. it will have a little pressure against it as the stand pipe has a spring inside it, and will be pushing up.
5. unplug single connection on inside of fuel bowl.
6. do the reverse of all said above for replacement.

last pic......... the nasty brown stuff you see in my old fuel bowl may also be in yours, clean this out with a rag and reassemble.

nice write up Brandon..i need to spread rep's before i could give you more..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forum/im...es/yourock.gif

There are 2 styles. the pics are of the newer one. if you have the older style you will see a 3/4 inch "nut" cast into the bottom of the black plastic standpipe,and you will not have the 2 torx headed screws. that stand pipe it LEFT HAND thread. While cleaning, check the screen that covers the port going to the fuel pressur regulator. they will get clogged and restrict flow and affect preformance. Barney

I pulled my bowl heater when I did my last filter swap. Be careful with those brass looking tack welds on the element, they pull up easily. I priced out a new one and it is OEM only for almost 200 bones... I put my back together very carefully and ohm'd it out to make sure there wasn't an open, has been working fine.

Thanks everyone,Brandon, thanks for the pics ,the reason Im changing is the # 30 fuse blew which is the Pcm and the fuel bowl heater. I called the dealer today , he said there is an internal and external fuel heater element each is about 150. but now I dont know which one I need.

Hey Lou, lets try unplugging the heater from the bowl,(connection on the back of fuel bowl) and then start truck, if it does not blow the fuse again then it is the one inside the bowl. And to be truthful that is the only one I know of off the top of my head. there is a heated fuel mixing chamber in the tank, but it has no elctrical parts in side.

I would happily send you my in bowl heater, no charge, but it has 250K mile worth of fuel on it and the solders are very brittle. I do not think it would make the trip to NY.

Brandon, I disconnected the plug behind the fuel bowl and the truck has been running for a week now, when the problem happened first the fuse was blown so I think its the one you gave me pics to. Thanks anyway for the offer.

I took care of the rep points. Someone needs to get this link over on the 7point3 website. Excellent write up with pics.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forum/im.../thankyou2.gifrep's to you to.... .................and.........https://www.ford-trucks.com/forum/im...ree[1].gif....

Will it still work if the tack weld pull up? Mine were loose when I did my last filter change. It doesn't blow the fuse.....

I'm of the opinion the fuel bowl heater is worthless. It will only work with the key on and only heat the fuel in the bowl. Who is going to let the truck sit with the key on and engine off so the fuel in the bowl doesn't gel. If they did it wouldn't take long for the heater to drain batts to the point of not being able to start. If your truck sits in temps cold enough to gel the fuel in the bowl then the fuel in the fuel line all the way back to the tank is gelled. The fuel in the bottom of the tank where the fuel pick up is will also be gelled.

Next time I change the fuel filter I will probably remove it. It will make it easier to clean out the bowl if need be. In the meantime I have the connector unplugged so I don't have to worry about the element shorting out and blowing the PCM fuse.

Don't worry about if it will work or not, just remove it or disconnect it.

I'm sure some will disagree with me but that's my opinion and I will stick to it.

I was considering doing this heater check and possible replacement on my truck as well but when I pulled the filter to change it out with a new one my bowl heater looks nothing like that. It looks more like a 1/4" metal tube that plugs into the heater port and spirals around the center post. No plate with a wire soldered to it. Is that the older one?

ya the updated one looks like this. and that is probably what your new one looks like.

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/pics/fbowl/filter-ck2.jpg

Yep, that's exactly what mine looks like. So that's the newest one?

Yep and I am gonna try it in my 97 obs just to see if it helps on start-up running B100. Normally I plug it in on a timer set for about 3 hours before I use the truck. Just playing to see what happens.

Fuel Filter Heater
 

I have this older type. Is it the standpipe it self that tightens or is it the nut ? Thanks, Terry

I wouldnt spend the money on it. After the truck is running, the engine heat will do what thad does anyway. Spend the money on MODS!!

The standpipe.
Welcome to FTE and Merry Xmas

Barney

a bowl heater isnt going to help the B100..we cant run anything over a B10 in the winters up here...i dont think the bowl heater helps much at all..i took my bowl out 2 winters ago and she still fires up every day and has never gelled...i never even pluged her in last year and she always started...

Plugging the motor in will have no effect on the fuel in the tank. Even if the fuel bowl heater did magically work, it would only work on the stuff inside the fuel bowl. The rest of the fuel tank and lines would be plugged with gelled fuel.

Pour some B100 in a clear plastic bottle and stick it in the freezer for 24 hours, or stick it outside if it's cold. That will tell you everything you need to know.

I appreciate it. Any idea on the best tool to use to loosen the pipe? Thanks again. Merry Christmas !!

A deep clearance socket or a crowsfoot. I wanna say its a 3/4, but I'm not sure. Its been awhile since I've done one.

It appears to be a flared rounded head ??

Thanks Guys!
 

I was afraid I was gonna have to pay an arm and a leg to get some BS fixed, come on here for 10 minutes and problem solved. So thank you again.