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99 E250 bit of a rod knock - heavy oil?
can I run a non-synthic 20-50 to tone down the "knock"...and yes it is a rod knock - 5.4l with 120k
Bill |
If you live in a cool climate, I would say no. During the summer or when the low is 70, it should work. However, I'd suggest trying a qt of lucas oil stabilizer first.
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Why not just run 5w50 and be done with it? Unless you live where it never gets below about 60* that oil is way too thick for these engines.
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Originally Posted by galaxie641
Why not just run 5w50 and be done with it? Unless you live where it never gets below about 60* that oil is way too thick for these engines.
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so when u have a defintite rod kncok what do u want to do thicker or thinner oil?
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mobil one has 5w-40
valvoline goes to 20w-50 and 15w-40 Royal purple does SAE 5W40 12-Quart Case* 12540 those are the only brands I consider for oil. |
Originally Posted by ReAX
However, I'd suggest trying a qt of lucas oil stabilizer first.
I know two different people who used that stuff in their motors and developed rod knocks AFTER using it. One was an I6-300 that spun a main, and the other was an old tired 180K+ 351W - it lived for a while. The I6 did not. And in both motors, it was within a week of the oil change and Lucas. Is it a 3-valve 5.4L? Or an older 2-valve? The 3-valve has a TSB out for a "knock" - cam phase sensor? |
Originally Posted by krewat
And how does a "stabilizer" help a rod knock?
I know two different people who used that stuff in their motors and developed rod knocks AFTER using it. One was an I6-300 that spun a main, and the other was an old tired 180K+ 351W - it lived for a while. The I6 did not. And in both motors, it was within a week of the oil change and Lucas. Is it a 3-valve 5.4L? Or an older 2-valve? The 3-valve has a TSB out for a "knock" - cam phase sensor? Bill |
Originally Posted by Rmvr53
as far as I know a 2 valve. Nothing I have paper wise says otherwise. I had a similar experence with Lucas. In this motor. Started the rod knock AFTER using it - took about 2000 miles but its a knock.
Most of their other stuff people have had lots of luck with it. But the "stabilizer" ... I don't know - maybe it shouldn't be just poured into the valve cover in one shot or something, but now besides just those two I spoke of that I had direct knowledge in (and diagnosed the knock), there's you and a few others on this site. |
He asked about heavier weight oils, the Lucas stabilizer makes the oils tackier (I don't know specifically what it does to viscosity.) I have used and loved it in my 351m and 300I6, particularly when the 300 was using Mobil 1. I added a qt during oil change and never had any issues.
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Originally Posted by krewat
Gee, what a coincidence.
Most of their other stuff people have had lots of luck with it. But the "stabilizer" ... I don't know - maybe it shouldn't be just poured into the valve cover in one shot or something, but now besides just those two I spoke of that I had direct knowledge in (and diagnosed the knock), there's you and a few others on this site. The real question I was asking tho is about using a dino oil vs synthetic in a 5.4 mod motor. Dos it make a difference? Bill |
I didn't notice any difference between Mobil1 and Royal Purple in my 5.4.
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Originally Posted by ReAX
I didn't notice any difference between Mobil1 and Royal Purple in my 5.4.
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Originally Posted by Rmvr53
can I run a non-synthic 20-50 to tone down the "knock"...and yes it is a rod knock - 5.4l with 120k
Bill |
Originally Posted by Rmvr53
aren't both of those synthetic?
When I started driving, I changed from pensoil to valvoline and I felt a change, and then in my 89 I switched from valvoline to mobil1 and felt an equal change. However, that's been years ago. |
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