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-   Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300 (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum52/)
-   -   I6 flywheel interchangeability (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/595002-i6-flywheel-interchangeability.html)

todd jo 03-25-2007 12:53 AM

I6 flywheel interchangeability
 
I posted similar ? in another, possibly wrong forum on this site. So I lean on you all now.

I have a 66 F-100 I got in pieces. Had a factory 240 I6, and 3 on tree. PO swapped in a NP435 and ran it behind the 240. Got a 300 I6 and then walked away. I bought the thing and put the 300 in. She runs like a top, buit has a vibration at about 2K that I cannot live with. I am accostomed to old iron and loud cabs, but this is too much. Gonna shake something till it breaks!!

The problem is around 2K RPM. I am guessing at that. In neutral clutch in or out does not matter. I will not road test until this is resolved. I fear that severe damage will result if not fixed right away. All the engine tune and test has been in the driveway so hopefully keeping it off the roads with minimal run time will spare any damage.

I have spent hours on this site searching for the answers. I get the internal/external, neutral balance/imbalance deal. However I cannot find an answer as to if the 240 and 300 can share the same flywheel. I got 2 flywheels with the deal. One from the 240 and one from the 300. I installed the one with the best looking ring gear. IIRC they are both identical in appearance. Both are lacking the cast wedge that is for the 28oz. and 50oz. flywheels in later trucks.

I have verified the ignition is good, as is compression.

If the flwwheel was improperly stored could it warp after 8 years of sitting? I didnt check the flywheel prior to installation to see if it was warped or out of round.

Could the trans be causing this vibration? PO said it was great before. This is a good friend who would be heartsick if they knew the trouble I am having as this was such a good runner prior to the engine swap.

Any input is welcome. I think I will pull the thing apart and start over if no one has an idea here. This is supposed to be new DD.

TIA Todd

srercrcr 03-25-2007 06:58 AM

Normally I would think a vibration would be related to ignition, carb...combustion issues, but since you say it runs like a top, I'd focus on other easier issues.
Do you have another harmonic balancer you can swap onto it? I would pull the trans and watch the flywheel as it spins while idling....maybe take it to be balanced...can't hurt.

havi 03-25-2007 08:34 AM

it's possible it got bent if it was still mounted on the engine, being moved around, dropped on the ground(ie lowering the cherry picker too fast), or excessive yanking on it while the tranny input shaft was still seated. Work, I know, but you may wanna just get a new flywheel for the 300. Do you hear any clunking noises? Hard to shift? Pilot bushing?

NumberDummy 03-25-2007 08:43 AM

The flywheel may also have had "blue hot spots" and/or been warped at one time and resurfaced, which does no good at all. Since there are six different 240/300 flywheels from 1965/72, there's the possibility the wrong one is in there, that's why I listed the Ford engineering stamping numbers above.



In addition, there are SIX vibration dampers. One (1) has a single pulley-(240), two (2) have double pulleys-(240) and three (3) have triple pulleys (one for a-240; one for a 300 H/D; and one for a 300 L/D & H/D). All are marked with the Ford engineering number.

todd jo 03-25-2007 10:53 AM

I replaced pilot bearing, all seals in the motor, excluding head gasket. New clutch kit and TO bearing. While there I replaced the trans input shaft seal as well. I do have another balancer I could try bofore I yank the trans. I timed and tuned using the balancer that is there now, so I doubd its an issue. However it is easier than changing out the flywheel. FWIW I have a 2 pulley damper on the front of the crank.

NumberDummy 03-25-2007 11:01 AM


Originally Posted by todd jo
I replaced pilot bearing, all seals in the motor, excluding head gasket. New clutch kit and TO bearing. While there I replaced the trans input shaft seal as well. I do have another balancer I could try bofore I yank the trans. I timed and tuned using the balancer that is there now, so I doubd its an issue. However it is easier than changing out the flywheel. FWIW I have a 2 pulley damper on the front of the crank.

There are 6 possible flywheels, and 6 possible dampers. You need the correct one of each to match to end the problem. For all you know, your flywheel could be from a F600 with a 300 H/D engine, and your damper from a 240, which btw...IT IS, as only the 240's had dual pulley dampers.

todd jo 03-25-2007 02:57 PM

After prying open the flywheel cover it was immidiately obvious I got the WRONG flywheel. It has the cast "v" area.


Using a halogen light and an inspection mirror I got this for a number

DLTE-6A and 8D50 I am guessing this is for 50oz. of imbalance. Is this correct?

Will a properly matched flywheel and balancer from the 240 I6 work. I ask only cause I am trying to work with the parts I have on hand.

Thanks to Numberdummy!! I will post up the numbers once I get to a point where I can read them accurately and not upside down and backwards. Sorry for the confusion on that deal guys.

Thanks again, Todd

NumberDummy 03-25-2007 03:33 PM


Originally Posted by todd jo
After prying open the flywheel cover it was immidiately obvious I got the WRONG flywheel. It has the cast "v" area.


Using a halogen light and an inspection mirror I got this for a number

DLTE-6A and 8D50 I am guessing this is for 50oz. of imbalance. Is this correct?

Will a properly matched flywheel and balancer from the 240 I6 work. I ask only cause I am trying to work with the parts I have on hand.

Thanks to Numberdummy!! I will post up the numbers once I get to a point where I can read them accurately and not upside down and backwards. Sorry for the confusion on that deal guys.

Thanks again, Todd

There is a number where the L is in the engineering number prefix. The suffix always begins with a letter Sample: D4TE-A6

Found this: D7TE-HA = 1977/79 300.

I can't help with the ounces, parts book doesn't give that info.

acheda 03-25-2007 08:21 PM

I have flywheels from a '68 240 engine and an '80 300 engine, plus a 300 flywheel of unknown year. None of these has a cast-in weight. I understand that some engines are externally balanced, but I thought that these were all V-8's. I would really like to know if any of the 240/300 I-6's were externally balanced and, if possible why. With longer and longer strokes, the V-8's did not have room in the crankcase, hence the need for the "Detroit" balance. Will a 302-series flywheel bolt up to a 240/300 crank? If so, that could be the problem.

todd jo 03-25-2007 08:37 PM

Alright, I pulled the trans. The flywheel does infact have the cast counterweight on the flywheel. The number is

D7TE - GA

also cast into the flywheel was these numbers 9030 on each side of the 9030 there was what appeared to be a screw head cast into the flywheel.

I hope I didnt pull this for nothing. I will post up numbers on the balancer when I get my puller back.

Thanks again!

Todd

acheda 03-25-2007 09:17 PM

I went ahead & searched on "300" + "externally balanced". A number of posts agreed that a 302 flywheel will bolt to a 300, but that it will cause an imbalance problem. Many times it was stated that 300's are internally balanced. I am only going on what I read on these forums, but it sounds like you've got a 302 flywheel.

I know that there are many different flywheels and harmonic balancers, but so long as they do not have the eccentric weights that go with external balancing, they should work on a 300. (I would bet that the main difference is the weight of the flywheels, not the balance.)

Don't feel too bad - I had a friend that drove a 428 from KS to CA with a 390 flywheel. (Same imbalance problem.) The engine survived the trip, but the driver was amazed to learn (the hard way) about the existence of externally balanced engines.

NumberDummy 03-26-2007 02:28 AM


Originally Posted by todd jo
Alright, I pulled the trans. The flywheel does infact have the cast counterweight on the flywheel. The number is: D7TE - GA

Also cast into the flywheel was these numbers 9030 on each side of the 9030 there was what appeared to be a screw head cast into the flywheelThanks again!Todd

Damper number is somewhat important, tho only the 240's from 1965/72 used a two pulley damper.

Oh, btw D7TE-GA flywheel is off a.. 302 (fits 1973/74 Econoline, 1973/77 Bronco's and F series trucks).

todd jo 03-26-2007 07:45 PM

You, Numberdummy have been a great help. Guys like you make it possible for guys like me to continue with the madness. I gotta work this out. I cant post the numbers for the damper yet cause I got the trans out and cant get around the front of the truck in the garage to get to the damper.

Thanks again!

xix_vannin 03-19-2018 08:31 PM

Hey guys, I'm new here. Hate to bring up this old thread but I'm desperate. I have a 1972 Ford E-100 240/3 on the tree (84k orig miles). I had the clutch replaced by a local mechanic with a clutch i bought from summit, he had flywheel resurfaced, installed my clutch gave it back but it had a shimmer at 20,40 and 60 mph. I take it back and he says the must be your aftermarket clutch.... I said ok, he used his clutch, oem i assume, gives it back and the shimmer is less but not gone. it still shakes and you can feel it in the pedal when your shifting and letting out as your down shifting. He swears it can't be anything he did, he resurfaced the flywheel and put the clutch in and whatelse is there to do. I said, it seem like the flywheel wasn't surfaced properly otherwise i wouldn't have this shake. I've heard lots of stories about resurfacing flywheel too and you should always just buy a new one... Long story short, i'm tired of messing with him and want to get a brand new flywheel to but I cannot for the life of me find one. Am I looking in the wrong places. where is a nice OEM fly wheel for a 72 e-100 240 IL?

Thanks in advance!

fordman75 03-20-2018 08:56 PM


Originally Posted by xix_vannin (Post 17873419)
Hey guys, I'm new here. Hate to bring up this old thread but I'm desperate. I have a 1972 Ford E-100 240/3 on the tree (84k orig miles). I had the clutch replaced by a local mechanic with a clutch i bought from summit, he had flywheel resurfaced, installed my clutch gave it back but it had a shimmer at 20,40 and 60 mph. I take it back and he says the must be your aftermarket clutch.... I said ok, he used his clutch, oem i assume, gives it back and the shimmer is less but not gone. it still shakes and you can feel it in the pedal when your shifting and letting out as your down shifting. He swears it can't be anything he did, he resurfaced the flywheel and put the clutch in and whatelse is there to do. I said, it seem like the flywheel wasn't surfaced properly otherwise i wouldn't have this shake. I've heard lots of stories about resurfacing flywheel too and you should always just buy a new one... Long story short, i'm tired of messing with him and want to get a brand new flywheel to but I cannot for the life of me find one. Am I looking in the wrong places. where is a nice OEM fly wheel for a 72 e-100 240 IL?

Thanks in advance!

Did he replace the pilot bushing when he installed the clutch.

The only thing I can suggest on the flywheel is to pull it, measure the diameter and count the teeth. Then compare it to one from a newer truck or van. I haven't personally dealt with any second generation Econoline's. So I don't know if they have a special flywheel. The newer truck and van flywheels usually have 164T ring gear.


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