poor nadc student needing a hoopty
 

Hey ya'll,

ive fallen into some bad luck lately... and my gmc died last weekend.. it was the first and last gm truck i'll ever own. but anyways... i'm looking for a cheap ford near nadc... running condition isnt important, i'm more concerned about how it drives. (no bent frame or body work necessary) anything at all preferably full sized... if anyone can help it'd be greatly appreciated

Thanks,

Will

Errr... What's NADC?

I keep thinking North American Defence Command...

heh.. it stands for Nashville Auto Diesel College

nevermind, i found a 76 f150 custom w/an i6.. thanks anyways

Good choice, You will Love the 300 i6:-X22

heh well i hope so, unfortunately, due to the good condition of the body and the interior, the motor needs some reassembly before it hits the road.. looks pretty simple though, lifters and pushrods are the only things out of it. anything i need to know? this is my 300 6 cherry here

Everything is pretty much straight forward. The 300 is very simple to assemble, and maintain. How do you like nadc? I started to go to school their when i got out of high school, but that was about 10 years ago. Kind'a funny how a women can talk you into doing something!!!!!!!

So long as the timing chain (or gears) are lined up it should be plain sailing, but do a compression check on it as soon as the valve train is back together.

well.. i went and paid a bit on it, and discovered valve cover/inspection cover gaskets, and a pack of unopened brand new valve seals.. so i assume it smokes... any suggestions?

Ever done a head gasket before?

Because, if it was me - I would pull the head and have the valves and guides done at a machine shop.
At the same time look at the piston side clearance, if it looks good and doesn't have much of a ridge at the tops of the cylinders bolt it back up and it should last a long time!

Rubber seals will not help much if your valve guides are badly worn, it's much better to do the whole job once and be ahead of the game (with NO halfway measures)

yeah ive done several head gaskets.. i was hoping this'd be cheap but i guess not... bad stem seals would mean an oil burning problem, correct? cuz if thats all it is than i'd like to make it run and smoke a bit (assuming that wont cause any more damage, which i doubt it would besides making **** dirty), and drive it for a lil while until i get some cash to get some nice stainless polished valves and such... if i'm gonna do it i'm gonna do it to last for sure.

It might work on the intake valves - but if the exhaust valves/guides are worn bad enough the seals will just blow off again.

well i just got it home.. looks like the head was recently re-done... new gaskets/seals already installed. i'll get to work on thel ifters and pushrods this weekend and we'll see. but in the meantime here is a pic for ya'll to ponder

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=122352&.jpg

Shoot - why incha say so? In that case, you're STYLIN"!!!

Wish I could have stayed in NADC, parents were paying, had a falling out, so I dropped out after 2 classes. I've learned the rest on my own, so are you in the auto body classes, or engine and drivetrain?
The 300's are die hards, I've seen them run for years with a rod knock, nothing like a V engine that would toss a rod quick.
Here is the place for performance parts: http://cliffordperformance.net/Merch...tegory_Code=F3