How to replace your V-6 Escape's spark plugs
 

How to replace your V-6 Escape's spark plugs.


Replacing the spark plugs on a V-6 Escape isn't a really difficult job but it can be quite time consuming.
If you're used to replacing spark plugs on a simpler engine you might be surprised to learn that you have to remove the upper intake manifold. It's not really as bad as it sounds.
This is the order I do it in and not necessarily how you'll want to do it.
Click on the blue words for pictures.

You will need 6 spark plugs(I recommend Motorcraft) and 6 upper intake manifold gaskets.


Remove the plastic engine appearance cover over the top of the engine. It has 3 8mm nuts that attach it to the valve cover studs. The Escape I worked on in these pictures had been worked on by another shop and apparently they forgot to reinstall the cover so I don't have a picture of it.

Loosen the hose clamps that hold the intake tube to the throttle body and air filter housing. Pull the breather hose out of the intake tube and remove the tube.

Remove the throttle cable from the bracket by twisting the cable housing and then remove the cable from the throttle lever on the throttle body.
Remove the cruise control cable from the stud on the throttle lever by pulling it up. Don't try prying it off or it will break. Squeeze the tabs that hold the cruise control cable housing into the bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.

Remove the cable bracket from the upper intake manifold and tie the cables out of the way, probably to the cruise control servo.

Disconnect the TP (Throttle Position) sensor and IAC (Idle Air Control) connectors. Unclip the vent hose from the bracket under the throttle body.

Remove the vacuum hose and vapor hose from the Vapor Management Valve. The vapor hose has 2 tabs that you carefully pry apart to remove it.

Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve and the 2 hoses from the EGR solenoid as well as the connector on the solenoid. The connector has a tab you squeeze to release it.

Remove the EGR tube from the valve. It takes a 1 1/8" wrench.

Remove the vacuum hoses from the back of the intake manifold.

Unclip the electrical connectors from the manifold. You don't have to disconnect the connectors.

Remove the nut that holds the wiring bracket to the EGR solenoid and position the wiring out of the way.

Tie the wiring and hoses out of the way.

Remove the 8 bolts that hold the upper intake manifold to the lower manifolds.

Stuff clean rags in the intake ports so nothing accidentally falls into them.

Unplug the connectors off the COPs (Coil On Plug). Each cylinder has it's own coil.

Remove the bolts and COPs.

It's a good idea to clean the rubber boot part of each COP. I like to clean them with WD40.

Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air and remove the spark plugs.

Gap the new spark plugs with a gapping tool to .052-.056".

Install the new spark plugs. Some people like to use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads. Others put them in dry.

A good way to thread the new spark plugs into their holes is with a piece of rubber fuel line hose over the spark plug insulator. That way you can feel the threads starting and you'll be able to tell if they aren't screwing in easily. If they won't screw in using your fingers and a piece of hose, stop and see why not. Crossthreading spark plugs is no fun. Torque the spark plugs to 11 ft.lbs.

Replace the intake manifold gaskets. They pop out with a small screwdriver or pick. Push the new ones into place.

Reinstall the manifold carefully. You need to set it pretty much straight down onto the lower manifolds to make sure that you don't damage the gaskets. Torque the manifold bolts to 89 in.lbs....not ft.lbs.

Reassemble the rest in the opposite order that you took it apart.
Try working the throttle a few times to make sure it returns properly etc.
Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises such as vacuum leaks.
Once you're all done you can congratulate yourself on a job well done and think about all the money you just saved :)

Thanks for the great right up. I can't use it on my Focus but others on here should be able to use it. :) Stickied...

-Matt :-tap

How many hours labor does a shop charge for replacing the plugs? I want to estimate how many $$ I might save.

From another area on the internet, I've seen people charged $200-$250 by the dealership for an Escape V6 plug change. I changed mine in 2 hours.

Thanks. Sounds like something worth doing myself. What else are people doing at the 100k mark? How about the belts and water pump?

FYI, I decided to change out my I4 2.3 Escape plugs for some NGK Iridium Extreme platinums. Plus being the I4 it's easier compared to when I changed them on my V6 Escape.

The only item to remove was a throttle bracket for ease at getting to the #2 & #3 COP. Use a large flat-head screwdriver to help pry the rubber boot when you pull on the COP or else you'll pull the COP/spring out of the boot. It's a 20-30 minute job taking your time. The OEM plugs in the 2.3 I4 are marked Japan and ITR5F13 - these are NGK Iridium platinums not just some bottom dollar platinum plug. I was glad I changed them anyway since I really don't like leaving dry plugs in for 100k miles.

I changed the plugs today in my V6 Escape. Your post with the links to the photos was greatly appreciated and made it easy going. The plugs had 105k miles so I am hoping for some improved performance.

Good to hear a success story :)

Dave (Racerguy) thanks for another great tech write-up. I have used a lot of your instructions on the SD and now I will on the Mariner. Thanks again!! :-X22

You're welcome :)
And if you have any other tips after you're done the job feel free to post them.

Great right up and pictures. I think I will have my camera handy on my next vehicle task.

Things might have gone wrong?
 

Hmmmm... so I tried replacing my plugs (at 46000km) (with bosch 2 platinum - I know, a bad choice to start with). So I unhooked everything, all goes fairly well, change the plugs, replace everything (Okay, I did not change the gasket, that might not help).

So I turn the key, and all goes well. I rev it a bit, 2000 rpm, 3000 rpm, all fine, then I go to 4000 rpm and at exactly 4000 rpm, yaiks $h17 happens. All of a sudden, a very bad sound comes from the engine. When I stick my head in the hood and trigger the engine up to 4000 rpm, the entire engines moves around. Seems like a problem with a single cylinder. Like not enough air getting to the cylinder when I hit 4000 rpm. (or not enough gas, but I doubt this). I'm starting to think that something might have gotten into the intake and that this thing might be just heavy enough that it requires the air flow of 4000rpm to move and block the airway.

Any comments, suggestion would be greatly welcomed!

(Oh, and I don't know if this was happening before I did my change or not... don't usually rev the engine to 4000 rpm).

Thanks.

Welcome to the forum sberube :)

I bet that if you take your Escape for a spin you'll find that it runs just fine.
Most newer vehicles have rev limiters built into the PCM (the computer that runs the engine). In park or neutral they won't rev very high but in gear thet run like normal.
Let us know how that works :)

ah, yes, I just did take it for a spin, and it did feel perfectly fine... damnit. Thanks ALOT for the tip.


And thanks for the welcome!

I'll bet that was a BIG relief. That why this site is great.