87 Ford Ranger wont start
 

I was given an 87 Ford Ranger XLT with 2.3L Fuel Injection (4 Cylinder) by my uncle a few years back. A few weeks ago (about 3-4) the truck was overheating and I stopped to let it cool and ask someone for directions to the nearest gas station when all of a sudden it shut off and would not start up. The truck has 225k miles, again 4 Cyl., 2.3L Fuel Injected, 2WD (rear of course), Manual Transmission. The engine turns and gets spark and seems to get fuel (a friend checked for pressure at the shrader valve) but still doesnt want to start. I have checked various parts that have been suggested such as spark plugs, wires, distributor, etc. During these checks I have had to replace some parts due to faults in the part. An example would be my spark plugs, which were covered in carbon and 2 of them had missing sections. The parts I have checked/replaced this far are:

Radiator (leaked, partial cause to overheating)
Water Pump (also leaked)
Radiator Hoses (I was told that it would be best to replace these with the radiator)
Distributor Cap (pretty worn out)
Distributor Rotor (same scenario as the radiator hoses)
Spark Plugs (explained this one already)
Spark Plug Wires
Ignition Coil
Ignition Control Module
Battery (checked out fine at both Autozone and Advance Auto)

My father-in-law suggested I check the timing belt to see if the belt is damaged and to check the timing. So far I'm working on this part.

Anyone else have any suggestions? I've put about $300-$400 into repairing this truck since it broke down (not including other repairs before it broke down) and I would really hate to junk it.

Thanks in advance,
Mike
(I hope I supplied enough information without supplying unneeded information)

I was thinking the same thing your father-in-law is thinking.

I just got done setting the bottom pulley (Im nowhere near mechanically inclined) to top dead center. Then I checked the distributor like I was told and found that the rotor inside wasnt sitting where it is supposed to be when everything else is according to my haynes manual and my father-in-law. So I went and took the belt off, reset the piece for the distributor (as instructed by my father-in-law over the phone) and now I can't get the belt back on lol.
It seems that when I took the belt off I forgot to make sure a tension pulley was loose and able to be moved .. Ooops. After half an hour of trying to get this pulley moved and the belt back on I realized the stupid thing is rusted in place. Errrr.... Right now is when I wish I could find to wd-40 or was able to go get some.
Guess my current question is.. How in the heck can I knock this pulley loose without damaging anything?

(yes I try to keep my language clean on forums, never know when a kid might see your post)

appearently I either timed it wrong or it was not the timing to begin with. I did everything according to the advice of my father-in-law (wish he lived close enough to help personally) and the directions in the book. And yes I got that pulley to move, and the belt back on, BUT it still does the same thing. At this point I'm about to give up and just junk it after I take all the new parts out.
In an attempt to clarify my first post about the problem.
I try to start my truck and it wont, the engine is clearly moving and sounds like its trying to start. I can hear the starter but I cant hear the common sound of fuel igniting if that makes any sense. Im beginning to think that the problem is beyond anything I can fix myself.

Well now you know the valve train is timed properly check to see if the ignition timing is correct. You said a friend checked the fuel pressure, do you know what the reading? If you don't I would try squirting a little gas into the throttle body while someone is cranking the engine.

If the truck is in good condition it's worth putting some time into fixing it.

i dont know what the reading was he didnt say... how do i put fuel into the throttle body of a fuel injected system (im learning as I go here at this point) and thank you for all the help

take off the air intake tube and spray some starting fluid while cranking.

I would like to thank everyone for their advice and help. I found out from my job that if I didnt get the truck fixed quickly and get back to work they will fire me. So I sent my truck to a mechanic this time, even though I know that it will cost a little more. What I plan on doing is asking them exactly how they fixed the problem so I can do it myself if it ever happens again.

Let us know what was wrong.

I just got the call from the shop.. They just told me that its getting fuel, and spark, but when they ran a compression test 1 cylinder read between 80-90, another at 30, and the last 2 at 0. The shop recommends putting a new engine in it. After finding out that I was unemployeed as of New Years Eve thats something I just can't afford, I'm not even sure if i'll be able to afford the entire bill for them looking at it yet.

blown head gasket

Hmmm, if its only the head gasket instead of the valves or rings like they suggested.. would it just be easier to repair the current engine? If so anyone have a close estimate on cost? (I have a family member that may be willing to loan me the cash to fix it)

Turns out the mechanic shop wants to either put in a rebuilt engine or rebuild my current one.. they say it will cost the same no matter what i do (they say between 2400-3000 dollars). I tried talking to friends and family that might be able to help out, but have had no luck. I guess I going to have to just send it on 1 last tow-truck ride and find another used vehicle.