Do It Yerself Propane Injection on 7.3 IDI
 

I have briely read on "ZIGGSTERS" web page about a do it yourself Propane Injection. I WANNA DO IT. I just don't know exactly what parts to look for to begin the project. Anybody out there know a little more about what parts I need? Any comments on the whole project? DOES ANYBODY HAVE AN EMAIL I CAN REACH "ZIGGSTER" at?

Is this the link you looked at?

http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/P...20article.html

If not, theres another one with some parts listed. If it is the same one, go to his home page- he used to have an email on there...

Ill soon be doing it myself...

yeah that's the one i looked at, and it does have a list of all the stuff, but i just don't know exactly what all that stuff is, and i don't know the first place to look for it all. I looked and looked, but couldn't find his email. I just got done looking at the post from the guy that is putting his own turbo on a 7.3 idi and i am going to try to find out some more about that too, that is something else i would like to do.

i put a holset 35 on my ford, i also tried the propane injection. i had very little luck with the proane injection on the n/a. it just made my motor clatter and smoke more with very little power gain. i have heard much better results than i had with my exeriment, i used a acetylene regulator, 75 bucks brand shiny new, a 4 gallon bottle of propane, 10 foot of 1/4 inch hose, and a short piece of copper 1/4 inch tubing with some holes drilled in it. i don't know what i did wrong, but sure didn't help me very much. i think my timing is set too fast for pane. your timing may be set a little slower and just right for it, i never did change my timing to see if there was a difference, but i did have a pretty good thread about it.

Great info maybe I`ll try it.Keep us posted. Thanks

i made a propane injection!! 7.3 idi non turbo theres my link i think there are a few others also.

after i put my ts performance propane kit on ($200.00 on ebay including all hoses fittings and tank brackets) i did some research on the internet. found out the regulator is a beam garretson t-60, found one for $89.33. and the lock-off switch is a model #fl-218-12v, unsure of mfg. for $60.30. 4psi balkamp pressure switch from napa part #701-1575 for $28.00 for turbo applications, add your fittings, hoses and tank, then your set. this regulator will run on liquid or vapor (the heater hose hooks up to it to vaporize the liquid). regulator is sealed (non-adjustable) type. the regulator is only a few dollars more than the acetylene regulator, with no need to adjust. the lock-off switch is for added saftey. hook it up to a toggle switch to stop the flow of propane from inside the cab.

You can find a lot of the stuff you need at a LPG dealer.
Another place for some of the parts will be a welding supply house.
An RV shop should be able to come up with some parts also.

I have been watching a lot of posts about this topic.
From what I have read either a two stage regulator or two seperate regulators work best. I think I will use two seperate regulators when I do this project. One to cut it down to like 10 PSI at the tank and another to cut it down to about 3 right before the intake.
The next thing that I see is you want the propane to start flowing at less than 1/2 throttle to maximize the MPG increase and keep the propane pressure low.
I also think a pyrometer would be required to keep from melting the motor.
This would be very important if you crank the fuel up to max the HP gain.

I have been wondering about installing a Pyrometer in my '93 7.3L. Where is a good location for such a device. Since I don't have turbo my exaust system dosen't have a fitting. So how far from the heads should it be installed?

i never could get my truck too hot, i ran propane, BLACK smoke, i put a turbo on it off a dodge cummins, and i have yet to hit over 1300 to the floor after about 2 minutes with 15 psi boost at 3500-4,000 rpm's, and 1200 is safe to run all day long, 1250 is safe for about 30 minutes before stuff starts melting, since aluminum melts at 1350, and with the oil squirters it keeps the pistons cool. i have seen a cummins run at 2,000* for a total of 2 minutes in a burnout contest before he got scurd and let off, blowing black smoke everywhere, it was quite a site to see.i have not heard of a ford idi that had anything over 1300 exhaust temps. i have seen people with turbos claim the hottest they can get it is 800-850 degrees, even one guy has a boat with a 7.3 in it and a turbo. i would tell you that a pyro is a waste of money since i alredy bought one, installed it, ran the motor hard as i could and never saw it get hot, so i just unhooked it and it's sittin in my closet right now. 150 bucks for a pyro that never sees anything too hot to worry about doesn't float my boat. but to answer your question, i would put the probe on the left exhaust pipe about 6-10 inches after the left manifold, thats where i had mine.

Put the thermocouple in the exhaust manifold. Drivers side all the way to the back. I had the engine out when I installed mine. Drilled and tapped the manifold, thread the thermocouple right in there.
I can see 1200 in a very short time pulling a good grade empty. My fuel is not turned up and my truck is a little over 8000 pounds empty.

Ditto what 89ford73 says. :-wink Hottest my pyro ever reads is 1150. That's on a grade pulling my 12,000 lb trailer.