Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - How to remove Rotors that are rusted on Ford Expedition

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- - How to remove Rotors that are rusted on Ford Expedition (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/342204-how-to-remove-rotors-that-are-rusted-on-ford-expedition.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by crabjoe (Post 12100637)

Stuck rotor here too!! I was using the bolt and nut to put pressure on the rotor, but that doesn't work.. At least on this '01 Expedition.. After reading this complete thread, I see people are cutting their rotors off. I don't have a sawzall, but I do have a 3" cutoff wheel. I'm guessing I can use it instead of a sawzall, but I need better instructions and picture would be best.

I keep seeing pie cut, when I read about the sawzall method. What am I suppose to do? Do I cut a pie slice shaped wedge from the outer rotor edge to the outer edge of the hub (The rotor would look like it had teeth like a gear) or and I just cutting the surface of the rotor, to the center then trying to crack it with a wedge?

Pictures or a youtube video on the sawzall method please.......

I used my 4 1/2" angle grinder, with a 1/16" cut-off wheel Crab. I cut straight across, and completely through the rotor. Be careful when you get to hub, so as not to cut through that. In fact you don't have to cut completely through near hub, just a deep notch. Then back at lip of rotor, cut a little pie shape ">" out of cut you just made through rotor, so wedge/chisel lip, has a place to set in. Then use a large hammer, or small sledge, and give it a few good whacks. Mine split/spread the rotor after third whack, and rotor slid right off. Good luck Crab :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by crabjoe (Post 12100637)

On my '01, I drilled three 1/4" holes about 1/8" apart in a straight line in the rotor. These were located towards the outer edge. I was careful not to go too far once through. I put the corner of a chisel in the top hole and drove it down with a ballpeen hammer. The steel is brittle enough to crack without hitting it too hard, in fact it splits easily. Note that it is not necessary to break the rotor in pieces to get it off. After it cracks, things loosen up so that it comes off as intended.
Drilling does the same thing for you that a sawzall or grinder would. If I had come across the nut and bolt method, I would have tried it first. Once those factory rotors were removed, all replacements have been generously coated with anti-seize. Never any difficulty getting them off since.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crabjoe (Post 12100637)

I keep seeing pie cut, when I read about the sawzall method.

That just means to do 3 cuts about 120 degrees apart, instead of just 2 cuts 180 degrees apart. With only 2 cuts, if they're not dead across from each other, the larger half will still be difficult to remove. As to not having a sawzall, you'll thank yourself if you go and get one. It doesn't have to be a $200 model, just one of the cheap $30 ones. Once you own it, you will find many good uses for it. :)

I posted how I did it on YouTube

As mentioned by one of the users on this thread I had no luck getting off the rotor with the bolt trick method because they were so stuck on. I used an angle grinder, sawzall, Dremel tool, hammer, wd40, and bolt trick and it did the work. Go ahead and watch for yourself.

part1

part 2

part 3

Stuck rusted rotor removal

Mark your a genius,

Quote:

Originally Posted by sanman1969 (Post 2392429)

2nd paragraph contains instructions:
I just wanted to add a little advice to this area. I spent 3 hours trying to remove a single rusted on rotor on my 2000 exp. Everyone says use a bigger hammer... well I did. A 3 lb hammer, 5 lb hammer and a 10 pound sledge. I also tried a can of deep creep and wd40. I also tried... heat and impact tools. Then I tried 30 minutes of searching on the internet. Finnally, I found the correct advice somewhere (I cannot find it again) so I wanted to pass the information on to the rest of you because those three hours were so #$%^&*. This is a very neat trick.

After removing the caliper and the caliper bracket you have 2 nice holes to work with to help you remove the rotor. Go buy a few 1/2 inch bolts at least 4 in long with nuts. Slide the bolt through the caliper bracket hole from the inside of the truck towards the rotor. As you slide in the bolt, place a nut on the bolt between the caliper bracket and the rotor. Hold the nut while tightening the bolt. The end of the bolt will push against the rotor and the the nut will push against the caliper bracket. Tighten the bolt as much as you can.. I mean really tight. Put on the second bolt in the other hole. After getting them both as tight as possible hit the rotor with a hammer. See if it moves at at all. Try tightening the bolts again. Hit it again. If it doesn't come off yet. Losen the bolts, turn the rotor 1/2 way try it again. On the first rotor it only took tighten the bolts once. On the second rotor it took 2 rotations of the rotor. 3 hours of pounding on the first rotor then 5 minutes with the bolt and the rotor popped off. On the second rotor it only took about 10 minutes to get it off.

Hope this helps a few of you... I wish I could have found this trick right away

~Mark

Mark thank you very much.
My 2003 F350 consumed the better part of a afternoon. It ran many years in the salted roads of Wyoming and the excessive heat of California. It took on turn of rotor with tightening bolts and came right off.

Thank you again

Thank you your a genius.

I didn't see this mentioned but I also didn't read every page, but there's a much simpler way to get these off.

There are two threaded holes in the rotor directly across from each other
Find a bolt that fits them, and thread them in. Then with a ratchet or your impact gun, screw them in and the rotor will pull off as the bolt bottoms out against the hub. Takes 10 seconds, and a lot less cursing.

A good trick Ive done is spread some anti seize compound on the rotor/hub mating surface
Makes getting it off the next time that much easier.

Attachment 198107

i hope this will help someone too...we always hit the rotor with 3lbs hammers, turn the rotor so that you can access the caliper bracket holes, one person hits through there and another person on the outside end and it never fails to come loose within 5 hits each simultaneously....goodluck

How do you use the bolt trick when there is a dust shield blocking the back of the rotor? 2005 Eddie Bauer by the way.

Sorry to barge in, but I am wondering what people do with old rotors? I have three sets form various vehicles (incl F250) and I want to either give them to a shop to regrind, or to recycle.

Any thoughts?

thanks.
mikey.

Scrap metal recycling place or throw them in the dumpster.

Quote:

Originally Posted by F250F250F250 (Post 18619021)

Sorry to barge in, but I am wondering what people do with old rotors?

I always put my old metal car parts out on my tree belt the day before trash pickup. Metal recyclers make the rounds and scoop it up every time.