'97 F-150 engine won't start
 

Drove it this morning, no problem. Went out this afternoon,
turn the key and nothing. The battery is charged, lights are
bright, radio loud and clear. There is a tiny click that sounds
like it's coming from the ignition switch area, but no sound at
all from under the hood, not a bunch of clicks or a partial turnover
or anything. '97 F-150 Scab, 4.6L 134,000 miles. Thanks for your help.

try connecting the two poles on the starter selanoid. If it clicks just like it does when you turn the key, it might need replacement. That sounds like my selanoid did when I overloaded it (not the starter, one I added for accessories).

The clicking is not from under the hood that I'm hearing,
just one tiny click from within the interior of the cab
from the ignition switch, very hard to hear.
Does this make a difference?
I think I'll replace the solenoid and see if it works
when I'm off work tomorrow.
Any other suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Grafekie and others.

Oh yeah, I haven't had time to look yet. The solenoid is ON STARTER, right?

One on fenderwell and one on the starter.

hey'
check the positive cable at the starter for corrosion or just hanging there,
i also have a 97 and its happened to it already. same symptoms

dr jag

Been there done that....check it really close, the first time i missed it :mad:

Thanks. I'll check it at the starter. It's not the solenoid, and it's
not the ignition switch. It starts when I touch the ignition wire terminal
and the positive solenoid termimal. The switch checks out on the all the
different connection combos. What about the transmission Range Sensor?
Where the harness meets the TRS on the transmission, terminal #2 (4/96 build date),
when I put the +electrode from my Ohmeter on it, and ground the negative lead,
there is no connection closed. Does this mean there is a short between the solenoid
and the TRS? At least it will start with the screwdriver trick, but I need to fix it.
Thanks again.

>>>I put the +electrode from my Ohmeter on it, and ground the negative lead,
there is no connection closed. Does this mean there is a short between the solenoid
and the TRS?<<<<

YUP! or a bad TRS.

Thanks 82F1507.5. The harness is computer and power side of the TRS,
it seems the TRS isn't receiving power since there is no voltage registered.
Anyone ever replaced the power supply line and harness to the TRS?

Going to check for corrosion at the starter.

Between the ignition switch and the TRS there is a fuse. It's #21 in the fuse box under the dash. With someone holding the key in the start position you should have 12V at the Dark Blue/Orange wire at the TRS. Power goes from the TRS to the starter motor relay (solenoid on firewall) on the Tan/Red wire.

I guess I'll try to get my starter back in to the transmission housing.
I've been fighting it for an hour, the X*&%@ starter won't come loose,
I've removed the two bolts, but it won't come out all the way.
I have probably done more damage now than was present.
I'll check the fuse, once and if I get it back together again. I hope it starts at least
with the screwdriver, but I am seriously concerned I messed things up worse.

There are 3 bolts holding the starter in :)

And since you have been fighting it ,be sure to check the bolts and make sure you did not bend them, it can cause the starter not to align properly, and the teeth on the flywheel can be damaged....

Doh! No juice to the dark blue and orange wire at the TRS harness, computer side. Fuse 21 is okay.

Ok in between the fuse and the TRS is a clutch pedal position switch jumper. It is under the dash where the clutch pedal would be if it had one. The jumper should have 4 wires on it. Two white/pinks, grey/yellow and the dark blue/orange. The jumper should have power in from the fuse with the key in start on the white/pink wire. The power comes out to the TRS on the dark blue/orange.