Door Lock Actuator Replacement Procedure (Enhanced)
 

This is a revamped door lock actuator replacement procedure of what I originally authored (back in May) with step by step instructions and new annotated thumbnail photos to go along with the instructions for replacing all five original Excursion actuators. Familiarity with this procedure and the step by step helpful annotated photo thumbnails I've loaded for you will result in a two hour install time for all five actuators. Most of the time required will be associated with the first actuator as part of the learning curve, and I recommend you start with a rear passenger door to begin your adventure. Print this page for reference and click on the CUINAK gallery to visually walk through the entire repair sequence.

For reference, the right side actuator (you'll need 2 for the two right side doors) is part #3L3Z-25218A42*AA, and the left side actuator (you'll need 3 for the two left side doors and for the rear lift gate) is part # #3L3Z-25218A43*AA. New door lock actuators over the Internet run about $37 a unit, excluding shipping. Save hundreds of dollars in excessive repair bills by doing this actuator replacement your self!

Step 1. Window up completely.

Step 2. Remove 2 hex screws from door panel. One located underneath the red/white reflector plate. A second hex screw is located underneath the power button plate which can be pried up nearest the mirrors and slid forward toward the mirrors for removal. Unplug the power button assembly connections. For the front doors, detach the inside plastic mirror cover (i.e., slightly pry then pull off).

Step 3. Unhinge door panel by lifting first upward clearing the height of the door knob then pulling outward toward your self. For front doors, detach the courtesy light wiring by rotating the connector.

Step 4. Peel back half of the self adhesive sheathing covering the metal door frame to gain access into the door frame itself. Begin peeling this covering on the side nearest the door lock latch locking mechanism located farthest out on the door frame. The peeled back sheathing can be taped onto the window to keep it up and out of the way.

Step 5. Locate the connector rod that moves when you raise or lower the door knob. Follow it to the lock mechanism located at the outer most point of the door and rotate the yellow plastic connector with your fingers to detach it from the metal rod. The yellow plastic connector swivels vertically to unclip, and the connector rod then just pulls free from the center of the yellow connector. If you are working on a rear passenger door, skip to Step 7.

Step 6. If your are working with the front door, look above the actuator assembly through access holes and locate a small rectangular shaped black or white plastic alligator (open mouth) connector having a vertical rod within its mouth. Using a long needle nose pliers through a round access hole in the door frame, gently compress the upper and lower open ends of the plastic mouth in sequence while gently pulling the rod from its mouth. It helps here at this step to have a helper shine a flashlight while you reposition the pliers and use your other hand to gently pull on the connector from the plastic mouth. Once disconnected at the alligator mouth, swivel the vertical rod down and around as it is permanently attached to the door lock assembly. To reattach, simply push the metal rod back into its open mouth of the plastic connector and it will automatically latch back onto it.

Step 7. Unscrew the 3 black screws that hold the door latch mechanism to the door. These screws are located on the exterior side of the door frame and require a star screwdriver head. You'll also want to temporarily detach (by pushing inward on) a small yellow bushing evident on the metal door frame that secures a black cable that traverses behind the metal door housing. Note: if you are working with a front door, there will be two small yellow bushings to temporarily detach plus two white plastic bushings nearby holding wiring bundles.

Step 8. Locate the green connector above the door lock assembly. The green tab holding the vertical rod is a swivel connector and can be stubborn to open. Rotate the door lock assembly with your hand enough such that the green tab can be accessed either through the door latch mechanism where the 3 star screws were removed or through the door panel itself. Use a screwdriver to push open the swivel tab. The tab swivels like a typical door hinge. Pull the vertical connector rod to the side once the swivel is open.

Step 9. Reach in and pull the entire lock assembly out. You will need to rotate the assembly 90 degrees around the vertical window guide. If the assembly is resisting double check you removed all the connections described in prior steps.

Step 10. Unclip the electrical connectors at the door lock actuator unit. Push out the plastic bushing that helps secure the connector wire bundle to the failed door lock actuator mechanism. You will push this plastic bushing into the new unit at the same bushing hole once the old unit is pulled out.

Step 11. The faulty unit slides out toward you once the thin black tab that secures it to the door lock assembly is lifted up a bit by a screwdriver. Install the new actuator unit by sliding and clicking it into the same location. Make sure the small shaft protruding out on the new actuator swivel arm correctly lands into the lock assembly or else the unit will not function properly. At this point, reconnect the two electrical connections and verify correct movement by activating the door lock mechanism using the remote entry or the front door lock/unlock rocker switch.

Step 12. Now just reverse the steps you have just done, by beginning at Step 9 and working backwards to Step 2. When you complete Step 5, again activate the door locks to ensure you have everything correctly working prior to moving to Step 4.

For the rear cargo lift gate actuator replacement, remove 2 screws holding the rear lift gate handle and pry off the hard plastic cover the spans the base of the lift gate window. The plastic cover can by pried off by starting on one end of the lift gate. Peel back sheathing to gain access and use a screw driver to lift the thin black tab on the actuator to release it. Disconnect the wiring connector. Install new actuator, reconnect wire connector, and test. Make sure the small shaft protruding from the actuator swivel arm is correctly landed into the lock assembly or else the unit will not function properly.

Best of Luck ! :-X22
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Mod's note: Here's the link to OP's gallery for pics of the install 2000 Ford Excursion 4x4 - Door Lock Actuator Installation

Source for Actuator
 

Any recommendations for where to get these power door lock actuators? I've tried Ebay but not many selections. Thanks.

I found one place that sell the actuators for $36.74 as of 2004/12/12.

http://fordpartsonline.com/

Are you working from the inside on the rear door? or the outside?

Mel

Great write-up.

Are these known to fail in a given year truck or are they prone to fail in every year vehicle?

With an '05 on order..I'm hoping this has been resolved.

Excursion 2000 Lock Actuator Problems
 

I could use a recommendation for a online parts supplier to purchase lock actuators for my 2000 Excursion. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Many thanks or many pics make light work....wouldn't/couldn't have done it without your help
UKSD

I've done 3 of these on my 2000.

The fact that this topic has yielded over 1400 visits should make Mr. Ford think of one word...RECALL.

The good news is that the more these replacement parts sell, the price drops. And I have yet to replace a replacement actuator. The new ones from Mr Ford are a bit smaller and lack the Made in China feel quality of the OEM parts.

Thanks for sharing and helping CUINAK.

I still can't figure out why my door handle malfunctions though. It's not the actuator cause that works. Stupid thing just decides not to retract and flops around sometimes. Door won't close and if it does can only be unlocked with the key in the lock or from the inside. Key fob and keypad code are useless. ??????

OK Guys. I popped for $180 for 4 actuators today. I told the dealer that I could get the new actuators for $40 on the web, and they virtually matched the price. + tax and without shipping or a service fee, so I am pretty sure I came out a little ahead. (The seller on the web was going to charge tax, shipping and a service fee)

I am heading to the garage to take apart door number 1... I think the passenger's front door gets the treatment first.

Thanks to all of you for the forum and advice. I am sure I will save a few hundred in labor alone, not to mention that my frustration with these locks will finally be over!

Thanks again ( hopefully it is not premature!!)

Monty Ma Gill

Ok. Job done. Tools away and I have even cleaned up and gone to my shop for a little while. Total time of 2+ hours to replace all four door actuators ( having never done this type of repair and having only the instructions from earlier in the thread) .

The toughest part was the green clip. I could not visualize how it should separate. I spent probably more than 20-30 minutes trying to get the first one apart. I was trying hard not to damage any of the components. Also not having a flashlight helper made the job a little slower. A skilled light holder makes most jobs pretty quick (especialy if they also fetch tools and cold drinks). I would rate door number one a 7 on my frustration factor. After that, they all went down like clock work. Probably didn't spend a total of 20-25 minutes each additional door. Most all my time was spent learning how to get the door components to come apart the proper way.

Thanks for the assistance.

Monty

Tim (Mr. Moderator)...

This is great thread and a great write up.

Please add this thread to the tech folder as it well serves the needs of Excursion owners and FTE.

p.s. - Guess any moderator or Admin could do it to... thanks.

Jeff

I have a 2000 F250 Super Crew. Passenger side rear door lock won't actuate with the power door lock. I suspected the actuator (cause the thing works manually). I took the lock mechanism out and replaced the actuator. Put it all back and still doesn't work. Jow what?

I have the same identical problem. I was thinking wiring harness. Anyone have info on this?
Thanks
Kevin