1974 F-600 dump help
 

I just bought a 74 F-600 dump. It needs a little work but for what I want to do with it it's great. I am trying to decode the rating plate and am having a few issues. This is what I have so far using the original 5 volume book codes.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ed0870a449.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4179afefa1.jpg

I replaced the battery, and starter relay, the truck started and ran when I first picked it up but then wouldn't even click. Replaced the battery and relay and it clicked a single time when the key is turned but that's it. I removed the starter and will be replacing that this week. Am I on the right track?

Sorry, new to this forum and had it posted in wrong thread, any help is appreciated

from vinwiz.com
VIN Format: 1961-1980 Ford truck

Decoding: F61DCT06927



Digit

Usage

VIN

Decoded

1-3 Series F61 F600
4 Engine D Unknown!
5 Plant C Oakville ON Truck
6-8 Mod Yr/Mfg Date T06 1974 (Mfg Oct 1973)
6-11 Sequential Serial # T06927 T06927


Serial numbers are sequential per plant

F61DCT06297

F61 = F600 2WD (gas).

D = 330 2V Heavy Duty FT engine.

C = Oakville Ontario Canada Truck Assembly Plant.

T06927 = 1974.

Make sure that your battery terminal clamps and connections are clean and secure, good cables, good grounds from the battery to frame and engine block, and the relay is properly grounded.

Good luck!:-drink

And whatever fusible link there is, is good. Move some wires around, they conduct, then hit the key and they break again. Same goes for old wires in general.

If in doubt about anything, make sure the ground from the battery to the engine is good, that the (+) cable from the battery to the solenoid is good, that the wire from the solenoid to the starter is good, and then connect the (+) cable from the battery to the solenoid to the S terminal of the solenoid using a screwdriver and see if it cranks. If it does, and the key doesn't make it crank, you have something wrong between the ignition switch/battery/solenoid.

Ok next question is where do I find parts for this thing. Autozone and Napa haven't been able to find anything for a 74, closest they come are 1980, also what size engine is in this truck? The guy that sold it to me said it had a 391, but looking at the codes it has a 330?

What kinda parts you lookin for? Better off at a Napa with some old guy than those other places. I got some parts listed on my thread;

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9406048

All 330's I've ever seen came with 2 bbl carb, most with autolite or motorcraft with vacuum governor in the spacer plate under the carb.
All 391's came with holley 4 bbl carb with governor built into the carb and dist.
Most basic parts (points,cap,wires,coil,carb kit,starter,alt,gaskets) are the same as a 360 pickup for that year. Spark plugs are a colder range (Champion F10) than standard automotive plug (Champion F9Y).
With the quality of today's gas if you have plug fouling problems you may what to try the warmer plug.

So I replaced the battery cables and tested the starter as well. Starter was shot. I put a new starter and still only one click. So brand new battery, battery cables, relay, and starter. Turn the key still nothing.

New battery may not be fully charged battery. Put it on a charger overnight, no high amp stuff, don't want to cook it. Make sure you have good ground to engine block. I like to run my ground cable from B- terminal to one of the starter mounting bolts and then make sure there is a good block to frame tie also. The relay needs to have a good ground to work. If you are in doubt as to whether that 42 year old inner fender is providing a good ground path back to the battery, add a piece of 12 gauge wire with some ring terminals on the ends from under one of the relay mounting bolts to a known good ground. got a test light? disconnect the small wire at the relay (the one that comes from the ignition switch) connect it to your test light and then to ground. Turn the key to start, does it light? yes - key switch and wiring is good, no- key switch or wiring is bad.

good luck

And use a volt meter. Good advice above. Electricity follows simple rules. The voltage on the system will dip to about 10 volts when you do get it cranking, but while it's not cranking, you should be able to tell easily where the electricity stops. A test light is okay for that too.

So if your inner fender looks anything like this you prolly don't have a very good ground path for your relay to work to good;

Awesome thanks for the help, I'll give it a whirl this weekend

Here are some more pics of the work done already and the wiring. Battery is fully charged, had it on a trickle charger overnight when I first bought it, 750 cold crank amps.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...d8b8977b6e.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...9e695ee371.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5f8cf7c849.jpg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...efbdc01627.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6c315d0b7d.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3821e3c284.jpg