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AFCO Brake Lock Install - No more crappy parking brake worry!
The one thing I hate about my Super Duty is the crappy factory parking brake that barely holds the truck on a slight slope. New cables, new shoes, new rotors plus mine and mechanic times and I still couldn't trust it.
I looked at "$30 line locks" and decided those weren't up to the task. I found this company that has a Made in Canada product, I got excellent service from them and quick answers to any questions I had. Home - ABCO Distributors I purchased the T200 for install on my 2000 F250 7.3 6-speed 4x4. Kit comes with EVERYTHING you need except the mounting bolt and any electrical connectors you might want to use. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...972269ca11.jpg Ready to install: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...12cd58acd9.jpg After reading directions I decided to mount in this hole next to the transfer case. The rear brake line runs here. I am going to say my rear line was replaced by PO since it was not in all the normal clamps. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...212d0deced.jpg Point of no return, flushed brakes and then cut line as per directions and installing the fittings (requires double flare tool) Sorry no more pics, I had to do this quick. Most nerve racking part of job by far. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c7982e4132.jpg Installed fittings in the lock bolted the lock in the hole and tightened everything up. (do not over tighten or you will be needing new fittings....) Bled brake system and made sure the brakes worked. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...53265d12dc.jpg Connected wire to lock and then connected to one of the blunt cut wires under the hood. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...14b00f2a5d.jpg Under dash blunt wire for in the cab https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4506e25739.jpg The lock requires the power source to be from brake light circuit. My truck has brake controller installed and conveniently has an nice easy to get at brake light wire. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6c4090dfa5.jpg I just spliced in where the harness connected to my controller. PO installed it, so worked with what was there. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f0c7413bac.jpg Decided to remove dash to install switch next to radio. Amazing how much dust and dirt settles over the years. You couldn't see this when the dash was assembled. (need radio tools to remove radio before dash on my truck) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...94ea912942.jpg Wired the toggle switch up: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8ade1742c7.jpg Marked and drilled 1/2" hole in removed dash. 2nd most nerve racking thing to do. My truck has manual 4x4 so this was a blank panel for me. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...cb306d85ee.jpg Installed switch and reassembled dash: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...edf1c86eed.jpg Works exactly as advertised so far. I tried it a dozen times, truck doesn't roll away now, nice letting off the brake pedal and NOT worrying about the truck coasting on the crappy factory parking brake. I still have some further testing to do in terms of long term and trailer holding, but I am happy so far. I wouldn't say this was an easy install, but I am no mechanic. I figured I'd attempt this, worst case is you have to replace a brake line if you screw it up or want to remove the lock. |
Looks like a good solid valve.
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very nice write up, i just cant figure out why so many people are having issues with the ebrake on the Super Duty. i have 138k on my 2004 and it has the original ebrake shoes and other than a simple adjustment ever year or two mine work GREAT. holds the truck on ever boat ramp ive ever been on and now that im thinking of it everday also. i use the ebrake nearly ever time i stop the truck just so it takes stress off the driveline and again it never let go yet
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I had to replace my E-brake shoes twice second time was my bad (cracked the shoe, took a while to realize). But my stock E-brake is in good shape and use it every time I park. Probably not the brightest thing to do but I never put the truck in park usually neutrol unless it is on any slight incline then I'll throw it in park. It's a personal preference thing but I like to know the trans is never resting on a gear.
Great write up! I would love to do something like this and is now on the list. I like the idea of being able to throw the switch and jump out for something quick. I don't think I would use it with the E-brake over night. If you don't mind me asking what did this unit cost. Went to their main page and there was no pricing. |
Reality is I wish I didn't need to install this, I read about many people having perfect parking brakes and many that didn't. I didn't want to keep throwing parts at it when I've replaced everything already. (props to Tugly for his rear brake install...)
I used the foot parking brake everytime, worst part is sometimes it would hold, other times it would creak/groan and the truck would coast (would hold after it sat for a while). The lock is not for long term parking, I will still use the normal parking brake and leave in gear when parked. I wanted the lock for the 30 secs to couple of minutes to hitch trailers, open gates, get my mail etc. Pricing varies by dealer, they can tell you closest place to you. Full retail was $285 CDN, I figured it's worth it to NOT have the truck move. |
285 buck for that :eek: Not worth it for me, nice write up though. If I had a hand shaker like you do it would be worth it.
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Originally Posted by scotttahoe
(Post 15650641)
285 buck for that :eek: Not worth it for me, nice write up though. If I had a hand shaker like you do it would be worth it.
If I had an auto I wouldn't have bothered either, as far as the cost, no it wasn't cheap, but I've seen people spend more on cosmetic accessories. |
I actually just joined the forum due to a problematic parking brake install. If only I would have read this thread two weeks ago! If I cant get my issues worked out I may go this route.
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If the shoes are in good shape, the springs and adjuster are free and not rusted up, once u set the adjuster to the correct factory setup like Ford suggests once you sub the r take pedel down the truck shouldn't move PERIOD. After you posted this it made me pop my rear rotors off just to check my original shoes and they are still in near perfect condition. Even gave them a turn or two tighter just to be safe and their gripping like crazy:-jammin One thing I'll add is I push the brake pedal first and hold it down then push the ebrake down, yes I know they are completely different and not connected but I feel it helps for some reason:-huh
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Great writeup Farming F250! I'm going to add this to the tech folder, you're certainly not the only one who's had issues with the factory parking brake.
Lets keep this one on topic. We have dozens of parking brake troubleshooting threads, and this is the only one I've seen of a product like this. Let's keep it like that. :) |
That's a good detailed write-up, but you need to keep this in mind. With any hydraulic brake system lock, they are made to use in addition to the manual parking brake. The reason for this, is that, a few drops of fluid leakage at a caliper or w/cyl will release it. I worked at Ford dealer truck shop, and we installed hundreds of brake locks, both manual and electric, and there several cases of the trucks running off. We put them on a lot of delivery trucks and garbage trucks. Micro-Loc had a warning sticker that came with them, telling folks to be sure and install the parking, also. Just my $.02 worth.
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As long as the rear braking system is tight and sealed, there should be no problems in this holding long term though right? I see this as something similar to what is used in 5th wheel trailers that have an auto leveling hydraulic system. Am I incorrect in thinking this way?
I think $250 is a bit steep and will attempt to fix my e-brake this winter the conventional way, but this is a great second option. |
That's correct Sous, if the lock works correctly and the system is sealed it should hold. But, just like they say with the parking brake, don't let that be the only thing that keeps the truck in place.
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Originally Posted by Tom
(Post 15656951)
Great writeup Farming F250! I'm going to add this to the tech folder, you're certainly not the only one who's had issues with the factory parking brake.
Lets keep this one on topic. We have dozens of parking brake troubleshooting threads, and this is the only one I've seen of a product like this. Let's keep it like that. :) |
Originally Posted by Denola
(Post 15657009)
That's a good detailed write-up, but you need to keep this in mind. With any hydraulic brake system lock, they are made to use in addition to the manual parking brake. The reason for this, is that, a few drops of fluid leakage at a caliper or w/cyl will release it. I worked at Ford dealer truck shop, and we installed hundreds of brake locks, both manual and electric, and there several cases of the trucks running off. We put them on a lot of delivery trucks and garbage trucks. Micro-Loc had a warning sticker that came with them, telling folks to be sure and install the parking, also. Just my $.02 worth.
Exactly. AFCO includes umpteen warnings about runaways with the lock, including a nice pictogram of a guy getting run over by his delivery truck. Also says it must be reapplied every hour to ensure holding power remains. AFCO was a lot cheaper than the MICO prices I've seen. I still set my manual parking brake, which will hold the truck (barely) |
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