Got it. You're talking about when you get the springs off the truck.
Thanks for the great info.

Truer words were never said (written) than those. Know what you need/want and plan it out.

Phil

I think the PO actually meant rebuild, rather than upgrade which implies modifying or changing to a different type or year suspension.

Thanks for all the info. Are the plastic strip from MF come in a 30 ft roll? That's all i see. If I use then I should be able to paint the springs correct? I might attempt to remove and press in my own bushings.

Yes the strip comes in 30' roll, should be enough to do 2 springs. cut to length of shorter leaf, punch centerbolt hole (use sharpened metal tube, light wall steel, brass, copper, check plumbing/electrical depts of your local DIY store for small tubing/pipe fittings, tapped with hammer against end grain of a soft wood block) install strip flange edges down. I do not recommend painting leaf springs. Wipe with rust converter if you must have color.

Update!..got the bushings out with the mf tool.i also used my vice to get new ones in. I am sending out to get reamed. Im in process of sanding springs down. It's taking awhile to get through the goo [rust covered with rubber undercoat ] so fun! Should I really just leave these shiny springs with no paint? ?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...d8d95c97c4.jpg

I paint mine but you will hear from Ax and others to not paint. The last spring I bought from Bett Spring came painted and other company's paint them as well.

I've never seen spring eye bushings that needed reaming??? New pins should be finger press fit (lightly grease when installing fully grease after) unless bushing was damaged in install.
As indicated I do not recommending painting spring leafs. I've never seen new springs that were painted, just chemically blackened during heat treatment, similar to gun bluing. Leafs need to slide over one another, and that generates (surprisingly) significant heat, enough to soften paint which causes sticking and binding. I would use rust converter to darken and neutralize any remaining rust, then install plastic slide strip from Mid Fifty when reassembling springs. Paint only if appearance (show truck, trailer queen) is more important than function/ride. Remember when derusting leafs to sand ONLY in long direction NEVER across or with rotary sanding/grinding tools.

Ive used black oxide for treating steel. It works nice. You can get it from Caswell, Eastwood... Ive had good success with it keeping rust at bay on odd steel parts. It looks nice too. Never tried it on leaf springs but I'm sure it would work well. Just an idea.

Caswell Black Oxide Kit 1.25 Gallon

Ok just my ten cent

Here you can see what I did.

DinnerHill SpeedShop: Leaf springs

Sure you can paint the springs, thats a good thing, just make sure you paint them when assembled to prevent paint on the mating surfaces to prevent sticking.

You might need to reem the bushings a little depending on what kind of bushings (NOS steel bronz or aftermarket brass) Reeming is also a good thing as it will make a snugger fit.

Jim, did you ream with a hand electric drill??

Nop I just used an adjustable wrench, by hand.

If the pin slides in the bushing unmounted. Then the interference will be just a few thousands on two sides as The bushing becomes slightly oval from the press fit of the spring eye.

Im interested in the outcome.

Proud of myself and thanks to everyone for advice. Did it all myself including reaming by hand with reamer. The leaf eye bushings literally needed minimal reaming. :-jammin

Good work!! :-jammin:-jammin:-jammin