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-   1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum41/)
-   -   My Jigsaw Puzzle 1951 F1 Build (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1394786-my-jigsaw-puzzle-1951-f1-build.html)

pineconeford 08-26-2015 06:43 PM

John, you tell a great story and include pictures as well. Well done!
Loved the picture of the storage locker full of 'truck'.
Guys like us can spot a good project in the rough. Some see it as a disaster and run for the hills, we see it as the disassembly part is done and can spot any issues faster. :D

Tom

.

harleymsn 08-26-2015 08:04 PM


Originally Posted by pineconeford (Post 15597799)
John, you tell a great story and include pictures as well. Well done!
Loved the picture of the storage locker full of 'truck'.
Guys like us can spot a good project in the rough. Some see it as a disaster and run for the hills, we see it as the disassembly part is done and can spot any issues faster. :D

Tom

.

I have to admit, I would be a bit intimidated by that scene....and then wondering what's missing.

hulleywoodworking 08-26-2015 08:37 PM


Originally Posted by harleymsn (Post 15597990)
I have to admit, I would be a bit intimidated by that scene....and then wondering what's missing.

Thanks for the compliments. I just hope that my truck building ability comes close to my story telling ability!!

This truck project was perfect for me because it was already torn down; saved me quite a few hours and a few pints of blood. I knew that there would be missing parts-I just didn't know what parts. Still don't. Not worried about it-with the parts book, I can pretty much figure out how everything is SUPPOSED to go back together, even if I have to find the parts.

3twinridges 08-26-2015 09:31 PM

Looking forwArd to pics and a good how-to section on your riveting! I had to do a repair on the lower crossmember wing and could not find anyone thAt could rivet so I had to use grade 8's on it.

TonyB55 08-27-2015 07:38 AM

Building your own forge, to set your rivets. I like your style!
You have a nice project, there.

49willard 08-30-2015 07:41 AM

I have done quite a bit of hot riveting in the past. My procedure did not require a forge. I used an air impact gun with a rivet forming head (available from different sources-I got mine from Black Flats Rivets in New York). I made a thick sleeve the correct thickness to cut the rivet with a cut off wheel flush to the sleeve with the rivet and sleeve installed in the frame. My memory is that you cut the rivet (make the sleeve the correct length) to 1 1/2 x the shank diameter. I made several different bucking bars to be held in place pushing the rivet firmly in position (you want a 2nd pair of hands when riveting). With the torch in one hand and the air/rivet gun in the other you remove the sleeve, heat the small end of the rivet to be peened to red sparkling hot, place the tool on the hot end and pull the trigger. It is just about instantaneous.
A hint is to weld up and drill to proper diameter any wallowed out holes before riveting.
I did over 100 rivets in a different frame a few years ago using this method with excellent results.
I do not have pictures however pm me if you want to discuss further.

hulleywoodworking 08-30-2015 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by 49willard (Post 15605032)
I have done quite a bit of hot riveting in the past. My procedure did not require a forge. I used an air impact gun with a rivet forming head (available from different sources-I got mine from Black Flats Rivets in New York). I made a thick sleeve the correct thickness to cut the rivet with a cut off wheel flush to the sleeve with the rivet and sleeve installed in the frame. My memory is that you cut the rivet (make the sleeve the correct length) to 1 1/2 x the shank diameter. I made several different bucking bars to be held in place pushing the rivet firmly in position (you want a 2nd pair of hands when riveting). With the torch in one hand and the air/rivet gun in the other you remove the sleeve, heat the small end of the rivet to be peened to red sparkling hot, place the tool on the hot end and pull the trigger. It is just about instantaneous.
A hint is to weld up and drill to proper diameter any wallowed out holes before riveting.
I did over 100 rivets in a different frame a few years ago using this method with excellent results.
I do not have pictures however pm me if you want to discuss further.

Thanks for the tips. The only reason that I am using a forge is that I don't have oxy/acetalyne to heat the rivets. Otherwise, I am doing it pretty much the same as you did. We already welded and rebored the wallowed out holes, and my rivets are all cut to stick out past the joint 1.5 times their thickness.

My heavy rivet gun and 3/8" rivet set arrived late last week, so now I just to make the time to start rivetting. I've got the forge ready, a couple of bucking bars, rivet tongs, gun, rivets, etc.. I did try a sample doing it by myself, which didn't work so well, so the second pair of hands is an absolute necessity.

I plan to do it this week and will post a short video.

hulleywoodworking 09-02-2015 09:17 AM

Got a call from the motor shop late last week. They finished assembling the motor and decided to give it a test run-not on the dynamomenter, just on the floor bolted to the shipping/shop pallet. I was not there for this, which was OK with me, as it was just the first start up to see if it would even run.

And run it did. Nice and smooth.

For a couple of minutes.

When it started running rough, they shut it down and opened the carb, to discover it full of crap. I don't know why I didn't think to clean and rebuild the carb before I gave it to them; the fuel pump was full of rusty crap, so I was not surprised to find the carb loaded as well. I had cleaned the fuel pump, but didn't think of the carb.

As I am swamped at work, I told them to get the kit and rebuild the carb.

The newly rebuilt passenger side water pump was also leaking around the high quality Chinwainese seal; not bad, but enough. Luckily, I have a spare passenger side pump, so I ordered another rebuild kit. With any luck at all this one won't leak.

Stopped by today to pick up the engine paint so that I can paint the pump before rebuilding it and saw the completed motor. OH MAMA!!!!! She is beautiful!!!

The rebuild kit is due tomorrow, so I will get the pump done and to them by Friday. They will switch out the pumps Tuesday and get her on the dyno.

No pictures. I will get them and a video when it on the dyno.

lowtrkn2k 09-02-2015 09:56 AM

Tuning in and looking forward to seeing this beauty come together. Great job on the documentation so far. Any lesser of a man would have ran from that storage locker so hat's off to you sir, can't wait to see you polish up that diamond in the rough.

hulleywoodworking 09-08-2015 07:01 PM

Just a quick update: dropped the rebuilt pump at the motor shop today. They told me that they plan to put her on the dyno tomorrow or Thursday, and will call me so I can see her running.

Can't wait!!!

John

Nicholas+ 09-08-2015 07:13 PM

V I D E O ! :-X21

Jolly Roger Joe 09-08-2015 08:10 PM


Originally Posted by Nicholas+ (Post 15628436)
V I D E O ! :-X21

^^^ DITTO!!!! ^^^

hulleywoodworking 09-08-2015 08:15 PM


Originally Posted by Nicholas+ (Post 15628436)
V I D E O ! :-X21

Yes, there will be video.

John

hulleywoodworking 09-17-2015 07:18 PM

Video as promised.
https://vimeo.com/139646969

By the way-I recorded the video with my cellphone and had it upside down. I edited the video and flipped it 180 degrees, which is why everything is on the wrong side.

3twinridges 09-17-2015 08:45 PM

nice engine....


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