new to me truck, dos and donts
 

Hey fellas, I just got me a new rig, its a 2000 F250 with a 5.4, I'm a diesel fanatic but here lately diesels have been keeping me in the dumps so its time to resort back to a gasser for awhile.

The truck has 390k miles but the motor and trans have been swapped at one point in time cause they are both oil and grease free.

If I could upload pics from my phone I would post some but the mobile version wont let me.

So what are some dos and don'ts with the 5.4? Its my first modular motor so I have no clue where to start

For sure you'll need to stay away from those green nozzled fuel pumps. Habits are hard to break.

For sure.

Thank you for serving sir. I greatly appreciate you and your brothers.

Plenty of folks on here have 5.4's with over 500k on the engine, so it is very likely that the engine is the original. Do change the plugs at the intended interval and do so correctly(torque wrench, proper torque, don't force if it feels stuck, etc). Don't use products like stp oil treatment(clogs up oil passages). And don't be afraid to turn over 3,000 rpm just because your diesel wouldn't do so.

Plenty of folks on here have 5.4's with over 500k on the engine


Not to be unruly but I find that questionable. Did you mean to type 200K?

It has already done what my diesels wouldn't, hold. 100mph .

The only reason I question the milage is the lack of oil and grease everywhere

Ok, another question, what's the vest wieght of oil to run, I run castrol in gaasers and rotella in diesels

We run any good 15w-40 Dino oils. Since you just bought it, maybe wanted to really shine er up and thoroughly cleaned the engine compartment. Used car dealers are very good at making everything look new.

You mention it being a "modular" motor. Just remember, it's called that only because the factory could change out production runs quickly, creating a modular factory, hence a modular engine.

It really isn't any different from most other non-modular engines.

My dad bought her over a year ago from an individual well he just bought a 2001 ext cab flat bed 4x4 7.3 for 8k and sold this one to me for 2500.

Under the hood has remained the same condition since he had it so I firmly believe the motor and trans doesn't have 390k.

So I can run 15-40 rotella without a problem?

Nope, I meant 500k. In the 5.4 section there is a thread with mileage numbers like in the sd forum. Most sd's come with the psd, so you don't see a vast number of 5.4's here. Factor in f150's, vans, suv's, etc, and the total number of 5.4's is far greater than psd's. And lots of them are hitting 400-500k miles with just normal maintenance. Same for the 4.6 when you factor in police vehicles, taxi's, etc.

You can run 15-40 in it, but it it was mine I would run 5-20 or 5-30 in it, as that is what is recommended from Ford. I run 5-30 in both of mine with no problems(54,000 and 153,000 miles).

The spark plug change is the only thing to fear....

With the 3v, yes. That was a design flaw. The 2v isn't bad though. If you change them like you do on a cast iron head(start them with the ratchet, tighten until "tight", force them loose if stuck, etc) then you will strip threads or have a plug blow out for sure. If done properly the 2v won't give you any problems.

Ive heard to torque them to 25ftlbs is that true?

Only use motorcraft or is there a substitute that can suffice?

Is there a way to save the boots or would it be best to change all 8?

14-16 lbs is what is generally recommended. If you use anti-sieze remember to reduce your amount by about 10% since it increases clamping pressure on the threads.

I only use motorcraft. They are only $1.50 per plug at advance auto, so not expensive enough to warrant a substitute.

Unless it is cracked I just reuse the boot. I had one boot go bad on my van but all the others have been fine. Same for the coils too. Only replace the ones that go bad.

Edit-I use an inch pound torque wrench instead of a foot pound for mine too. Most foot pound ones start at 10-15 lbs and aren't very accurate in that range.