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-   1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum41/)
-   -   48 wiring to get it started /starter removal ? (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1351703-48-wiring-to-get-it-started-starter-removal.html)

rustydicksimports 12-16-2014 03:37 PM

48 wiring to get it started /starter removal ?
 
hi

i have a 48 ford f1 all stock
sat in a field for a long time
wiring is shot and all switches shot
starter seized how do i remove it ? i have got all the bolts out that i can see but will not come out have i missed one
also
i think it is 6 volt battery ,how do i hot wire ,to try to start it
can i connect a 12v battery ?
richard
england

thanks for any help guys

harleymsn 12-16-2014 04:03 PM


Originally Posted by rustydicksimports (Post 14910413)
hi

i have a 48 ford f1 all stock
sat in a field for a long time
wiring is shot and all switches shot
starter seized how do i remove it ? i have got all the bolts out that i can see but will not come out have i missed one
also
i think it is 6 volt battery ,how do i hot wire ,to try to start it
can i connect a 12v battery ?
richard
england

thanks for any help guys

First off, Welcome to FTE the best place for advice on working on these old Ford trucks.
To begin, if you have a 'stock' F1, it was equipped with either a flathead 6 or V8, both used the same starter and required the removal of only 2 bolts to remove the starter, they are indicated in the photo below.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...beca08acf3.jpg
The bolts do not need to be removed completely, simply backed out of the bell housing plate. If it's been sitting a long time, you may have to get the motor to turn some or beat and bang a bit to break it free from the flywheel.

To answer your other question, yes you can start it with a 12v and bypass all the old wiring. Make sure you have a coil compatible with 12v, you can hook a temporary 'hot' wire from the battery to the coil (don't hook up until ready to fire up) then ground the battery to the motor and jump the starter from the battery.

rustydicksimports 12-16-2014 05:05 PM

thanks
 
hi thanks for the help

Skalywag 12-16-2014 05:30 PM

I've never had the starter off of my 50', but that starter looks alot like the one on my 8N ford tractor, when the two bolts are removed on the tractor starter , the starter falls apart. I hope this is not the case with the truck starter.

rustydicksimports 12-16-2014 05:32 PM

i will watch out for that
 
thanks
i will be careful when removing
rich

toby tough 12-16-2014 05:45 PM

They fall apart if your not careful pulling it out. Have a nut handy to put on one of the bolts once you get it out. Also there should be a strap of sorts from one of the oil pan bolts that helps hold up the end when it's installed. I had a hard time getting brushes for mine at Napa and asked them to check for the 8N. Sure enough ,the same. By the way welcome to FTE. Lots of experienced folks here willing to help. Also the starters don't pull straight out, you have to kinda wiggle it a bit to get the thing out .

Elmo4895 12-16-2014 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by Skalywag (Post 14910755)
I've never had the starter off of my 50', but that starter looks alot like the one on my 8N ford tractor, when the two bolts are removed on the tractor starter , the starter falls apart. I hope this is not the case with the truck starter.

The best way to remove the starter on the 8n and the flathead ford is to get two 1/4" nuts and when you back the bolts out of the engine pull the starter out just enough to start the nuts on the starter bolts and run them up finger tight against the starter. Otherwise the starter is easy to come apart and fun to get back together. Also do not turn the bendix after you get it out because it will stick and you have to run the starter on 24 volts to get it to turn fast enough for the bendix to release. I had the starter on my 8n rebuilt and the kid at the shop must have turned it out and put it in a box. I didn't catch it until the next day. I just hooked two twelve volt batteries in series and ran the starter off them. You don't have to run the starter but a few seconds and the bendix will release. Oh yeah put your foot on the starter before you hook it up or it may jump around and disconnect your jumper cables!
Elmo

petemcl 12-27-2014 02:00 PM


Originally Posted by harleymsn (Post 14910499)
To begin, if you have a 'stock' F1, it was equipped with either a flathead 6 or V8, both used the same starter and required the removal of only 2 bolts to remove the starter, they are indicated in the photo below.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...beca08acf3.jpg

The bolts do not need to be removed completely, simply backed out of the bell housing plate. If it's been sitting a long time, you may have to get the motor to turn some or beat and bang a bit to break it free from the flywheel.

I agree with harleymsn but if you replace the starter and you have a V8 the starter bendix pictured above it may not go through the gap between the bell housing and the block. Mine did not and I had to remove the new bendix and install the old one (has the exposed spring) on my new 12v starter.
12V Vintage Torque Starter | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...816245d60e.jpg

Or you can order a starter with the correct bendix.


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