Dad and Son Motor Build
 

I know this probably isn't the place for the intro, but it's the only place in this forum I will be most likely. Anyway, I just joined after reading a plethora of info about the FE motor.

My dad has always wanted a 390, since he was a young man. He has a 70 model ford F-100 with a 360 in it, BUT we just aquired a 390 from and old guy he knows for $300. Everything except the Flywheel and Carb. We have both built engines for a long time. But he's always been into Fords and Tractors, and I'm a Chevy guy. Well, we are coming together on this build and I'm really looking forward to it.

From what I've read we have a good starting point. The block has numerous stamps which is normal apparently. D3TE is on the block along with 4C26 (which I figured out means 26th of March 74') Correct me if I'm wrong, but the D3TE is a heavy duty block used in trucks. It also has an X cast into the side, and a mirrored 105.

We haven't pulled the Crank yet, but the Main Caps say D2TE. The crank isn't in a position that we can see the numbers and it's locked up so no moving it. Soon enough though.

Anyway, sorry for the long post, but I'd figure I'd get some info out there and see what people say about the engine. I'm up for any advice, red flags, anything too look for. We don't completely have a game plan yet. We'll probably get more of a game plan after talking with some people on here.

If it's locked up fill the cylinders with penetrating oil at least for a few hours or overnight before trying to pop the pistons out. Might save a cylinder wall that way.

Yessir, will definitly do that. We will probably be boring it out though. The "loose plans" that we have so far are a bore (not sure on how much yet) and full bearing replacement and having everything trued.

I am looking to get a higher compression, yet use the crank and rods that are in the truck. What would be the best way to do this? Deck the block, use high rise pistions, Both?? I don't want to go over 10:1 but would like to see no less that 9.8:1

If the blocks good go with pistons. Once the block is decked you can't go back. I'm running 91 octane on a 10.6 compression 428 cj. You just have to watch the timing curve.

You might look into replacing those Connecting rods. Side by side, the 390 rod makes the 360 rod look spindly. Another thing to keep in mind, is that the 360 rod is longer.

Yea, weve been told to put 360 rods in it. Any idea whT the HP limitations are on em?

Excuse me? Told to put 360 rods into a 390 build?

Subscribed. 360 rods do not a 390 make.

360 rods in a 390....Use the 410 piston. Maybe.

1.89 + 6.64 + 1.678 = 10.108 into a 10.17 block. Other than the fact those rods are not as strong as the shorter ones, it might work. Unless I am missing something obvious.

For a really cheap build, get a pickup 390, and you already have the 410 piston and 390 crank.

Serving suggestion......

edit:

I search a bit more and found this:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182...uild%26quot%3B

Scroll down to the post by TorinoBP88.

More of the same:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/21142...+rods+in+a+390

I had to do some searching, Ceetwarrior had 360 rods in his 390. This was due to some hack work by a shop that had no experience with FEs.

As noted, you'll need some low compression pistons to keep the slugs below deck.

Somebody on this board took the time to do the math for Ceetwarrior, I think the post is quote worthy: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10028849

If you have a low compression 390 and an extra set of 360 rods laying around, putting the360 rods in will bump the compression up a fair bit for cheap.

Damn, been a few days since I looked on here and got some good responses. You know, I may have miss spoke. Maybe it was put 390 rods and crank with 360 pistons. Hell, I don't know, we were told something!!:-huh Maybe I'll just go with the pistons and keep the rods and crank.

360 pistons are one of two flavors. A flat top with valve reliefs, or a slight dish top with valve reliefs. These pistons are the same specs, if not the same exact parts, as the pistons installed in car 390s in the late '60s. The flat top piston was the "Premium Fuel" 4bbl motor with 10.5 CR. The dish job was the "Regular Fuel" 2bbl motor with a 9.5 CR. (Some Mercury 2bbl motors were 10.5)

If your 360 pistons are in spec wear wise, you can reuse them on top of a 390 crank and rods and have 9.5ish or 10.5ish compression, depending on your heads.

This is better than the 410/390 pickup piston on a 360 rod.

I know that everyone has there aftermarket preference. But lets say I want to bore it and use bigger pistons. Anyone have some good brands they prefer that aren't insane expensive. I've always preferred Diamond... but this is not a crazy boosted motor build. I think I can get away with a milder brand.

You only bore if you need to. Thick cylinder walls are more important than .030 or .060 more bore.

Lots to choose from:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/m...e?N=4294914196

Decide on what type and remember you want a piston compression height of about 1.78" if you want 9 to 10 =/- compression.

Probe Industries - High Quality Forged Pistons, Shaft Rockers, Main Girdles, Stud Girdles, Engine Kits, Crankshafts and Connecting Rods for Buick, Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, Pontiac, Oldsmobile and Sport Compact Applications. - 866-718-6267

You don't bore just to bore a larger hole. My machinist went only to 0.020 over on my engine to keep as much meat on as possible.

Of course, that makes it a bit more difficult finding pistons that are 4.070 versus the far more common 0.030 overs.

Alright, well I just learned something today. I guess if I'm wanting cubic inches then I just do stroke. I was planning on just using the crank that I already have and rods as well.

The 390 will run like a raped ape with stock bottom end components. i ran one for a long time before stepping up to a 427.

D3 components are great for a decent street engine. check the crank 10/10 if necessary, have the rods checked and go for a decent set of aftermarket pistons that don't break the bank. Look on jegs or summit and see what best fit your budget.

boring the motor, especially the later 390s in your part number range is definitely not out of the question. 30 over is plenty safe to remove any rust damage, gain a little power, and keep the motor running relatively cool.

Survival has budget stroker kits that come ready to bolt in. Barry will even prep your block if you want big inches.

Check out these guys for a few FE parts.

Survival Motorsports Home Page

DSC Motorsports - Manifolds

Carl's Ford Parts

I live, breathe, and bleed FE.

What are you doing with your heads? Probably D2 heads which everyone says good because of the hardened exhaust valve seats. However, I have learned that is a misstatement. They are really surfaced hardened just like putting a scratch coating on the lenses in your glasses. Couple of mils thick. I saw mine today and they clearly need hardened inserts put in for a true hardened seat. Depending on miles I'd bet that at least the exhaust valve stems are loose in their guides.

Guys I really appreciate all the info. I have searched and read all kinds of info, but the best info is from the from the guys who experience it.

The heads have C8AE-H on them. We will definitely be overhauling them, but not sure on what else yet. Im still trying to find info on the D4TE intake to see if I should re-use it or not. Its a 4 barrel intake, but thats about all I know.
It seems as though the engine I have is frome several different years if im judging the numbers right. The guy swore it had never been torn down.

People swear a lot when selling things...:-X15

That manifold is fine as long as you have a crane to handle it with or a team of folks. Performer or Performer RPM (I can't remember) are good for the FE and weigh a lot less. Not a big issue in a truck, but if you find any issues with that iron back breaker, consider looking through this forum for several exhaustive intake manifold threads.

Lol, good advice man. Yea those things are beastly.

Using an engine lift then there are as light as a feather...

Ok, haven't pulled the crank yet. But I took a mirror and found 2T on it. From what Ive read, this is NOT a 390, but a 360 or 361. This definitely changes things a bit. Im wondering now if I should just try for a high compression 360, or scrap the whole bottom end and get a 427 crank. Money is always the equaliser.

Go back and stuff it up that guys nose.... 360s always become 390s when up for sale.

A 427 crank is not what you need for a mild pickup motor. It is the same stroke as a 390 anyway.

Since this motor was stuck, I doubt you can use the pistons in it, so you need crank, rods and pistons to make a 390. You can go 410 with a 428/410 crank, and appropriate pistons. Or larger with aftermarket items.

IMO rebuilding it as a 360 is a waste of effort, as you will not make a decent running "high compression" 360 without custom pistons.