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-   1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum40/)
-   -   New to me 1966 F100 (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1330579-new-to-me-1966-f100.html)

PapaMatt 08-14-2014 03:26 PM

New to me 1966 F100
 
Hey all, so I ended up buying a 1966 F100, although I admit to feeling a bit (ok alot) overwhelmed by it now that it is actually sitting in my driveway. She does start right up and run well but so many little things need to be fixed that I don't know where to begin. The gas sending unit is not working properly and the smell of gas in the cab is pretty strong so I am guessing it is both faulty and leaky. Will start there.

Not much to look at right now but frame is sold and there are only a few spots of bad rust to deal with.

Here we go...


http://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...860c69a02f.jpg


http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...1bc13b5535.jpg


http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...e7b10276f1.jpg


http://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...9b3a47508f.jpg


http://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...c766fa9c37.jpg


http://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...7780fc2e76.jpg

daveengelson 08-14-2014 03:45 PM

It's a keeper, wow, suggest keep her on the road while working on making sure she's mechanically sound; meantime, decide whether or not want to consider upgrades. Wow, electronic ign., and power assist brakes, what a find. Looking forward to your input. May want to take some extremely find sand paper, or mild paint remover and see if that's an anodized alum. grille.

gangstakr 08-14-2014 03:54 PM

Congratulations, take care of your fuel issue, new rubber at filler neck, new clamps. Pull out your fuel sending unit, make sure float isn't full of fuel, if so replace it.
Make sure your brakes are up to standard. Get your wiring fixed as needed. Then drive it and enjoy. Work on rust issue as time and money allows.
Work out a plan for doing what you want it to look like and act like. A well thought out plan and a realistic plan is best.
It looks like you have a good foundation for the project.
Don't be foolish and start a complete tear down unless you have the money and the time to dedicate to it.
As you drive it, you'll figure what needs to be addressed and how to resolve the problems, if any.
Enjoy your new toy.

svolpone 08-14-2014 04:08 PM

You're wrong, it's a beautiful thing to behold. I grabbed one in November (although mine is a 64 and not as nice as yours) and I felt overwhelmed at first. People here helped me get over my fear. Just get a plan and execute it. Think of it as a journey of discovery. I didn't know ANYTHING about this stuff, and now I feel that I at least am not in over my head. Of course, I may be, but I probably don't know it. lol.

Good luck. Seriously, great looking truck.

PapaMatt 08-14-2014 07:40 PM

Thanks for the positivity guys, I needed the boost. Definitely will NOT be tearing it down for a complete rebuild. It runs fine and I am just going to go bit by bit checking everything out. I just got overwhelmed with it sitting in the driveway and needed to take a step back and start a list and make some progress.

ddavidv 08-15-2014 04:47 PM

Guaranteed the filler inlet hose is rotten and leaking, which is why you're smelling gas. Cheap and easy fix, but only buy the correct hose...don't try to use 'regular' hose as it won't last. Dennis Carpenter makes the right one, and it's sold by most of the vendors (I like Flashback F100s and Carolina Classics).

NumberDummy 08-15-2014 07:51 PM

1 Attachment(s)
C1TB-9047-A .. Neoprene Fuel Filler Hose / Reproduced

Available from Carpenter (Concord); Carolina Classics (Durham).

Flashback F100's is located in Reedsville, but AFAIK, only sells used parts.

The original fuel sending unit float is made from two pieces of copper soldered together. Solder breaks down, gas seeps in, float settles to the bottom of the tank.

Carpenter also sells a one piece brass fuel sending unit float that'll never leak for about 5 bucks.

resonateur 08-15-2014 08:02 PM

Matt:
If your sender float isn't the problem, let me know as I have a couple original senders. Remove the sending unit and put it an ohmmeter from the mounting plat to the lead connector and make sure the ohmmeter reads "up and down" when you raise and lower the float arm. Of course, if the float is full of gas, or has a hole in it, there's an easy fix. I agree, replacing the rubber filler neck should solve your odor problem; at least your fuel odor problem.

700buck65F100 08-16-2014 03:13 AM

Great looking truck, you have a nice solid foundation. Just take it one piece at a time and have fun with it. :)

shortwide 08-16-2014 08:10 AM

You have the right approach....drive it while you fix it.

All of the previous advice has been spot on....don't think I can add much too it.

And for it's worth, the fuel gauge in my 66 didn't work when I bought it. I pulled the sender and sure enough, the float was rotten. I replaced it and the gauge works perfectly.

PapaMatt 08-16-2014 08:21 PM

Thanks NumberDummy and resonateur for info on the sender, however I am pretty sure the PO put in an aftermarket unit to go with the Sunpro gauge. Reviews on the sending unit are not great. I am going to pull it and see if maybe it was not trimmed properly for the tank. If it is correct and still not working will have to replace.

That brings me to a question of what instrument panel is original in these triucks? I've seen the large circle speedo and the Custom Cab "bar" speedo but a lot of pics online also have the or or two big gauges in middle with two little ones flanking. Assume that's all aftermarket?

NumberDummy 08-16-2014 09:11 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by PapaMatt (Post 14588615)
That brings me to a question of what instrument panel is original in these trucks?

I've seen the large circle speedo and the Custom Cab "bar" (sweep) speedo but a lot of pics online also have the or or two big gauges in middle with two little ones flanking.

Assume that's all aftermarket? :-huh

1965/66 F100/250 2WD Custom Cabs & Rangers used a plastic chrome "sweep" speedo instrument cluster bezel. See parts catalog pic.

All other 1961/66's used the round speedo. Custom Cab instrument cluster bezel is chrome steel, Standard Cabs used a painted steel instrument cluster.

The oil (9273) & amp (10850) gauges were optional for both the round and sweep speedo instrument clusters.

daveengelson 08-16-2014 09:36 PM

They also come in the large speedo w/ 2 smaller size outer gauges, oil pressure and alt.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_0011.jpg

PapaMatt 08-18-2014 02:34 PM

Thanks guys, those were the two clusters I was seeing in the pics. PO screwed some piece of black metal into the opening on top of whatever bezel is back there so will take some of those screws off and see what it looks like back there...

It was raining today so got a chance to check for leaks. There is water all the away around the bottom of the windshield on the inside and kinda pools on the drivers side and runs down to the floor by the door hinges. Pic below. Am I going to have to pull out the windshield and replace all of the seals to fix most likely?

Second and third pic are of misalignment in the driver door. It rubs on the hinge said and a decent gap on the handle side.


http://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...8571bceb1e.jpg


pooling water


http://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...4df08ab002.jpg


Also snapped a pic of the misalignment for driver door

http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...7c8b756864.jpg


Any ideas appreciated!

daveengelson 08-18-2014 04:51 PM

Suggest start at door post striker plate. Currently shopping for hood hinge that broke on my 65 so I copied the adjustment procedure out of the 65 Ford shop manual, which so happened to include the door adjustment. About as brief instructions on subject as one will find.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...truck_0001.jpg


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