|
Yeah I don't think they expect the average person( or mechanic) to read the manual
|
well, i guess i've known i'm abnormal for quite a while now :-)
|
Quick question, while I'm shopping to rebuild my engine, are main studs a must when rebuilding if you are going for a bit more HP? Or are they re-useable on an almost 300k mi engine?
I know that the head studs need replaced, but for both sets of ARP Main and head studs will run almost 1k$ so I'm wondering if I can skip the 360$ main studs and just do the head studs. edit: Also, are connecting rods re-useable? or do I just need to replace the bearings? |
I don't believe main studs are required until much higher hp builds. What that hp number is though I don't know...
Now a few questions of my own for the rebuild experts out there. There is a reasonable chance I get the truck reassembled to the point of starting the engine by T-day, so: 1. There's no harm in running bigger injectors on a stock PCM for a bit, right? They'll just behave like stock injectors right? 2. As long as I'm in "clean" air is it ok to run without my turbo connected to the head intake plenums? I won't have my IC plumbing worked out but sure would like to start her and let her idle to check for leaks and other issues before completely reassembling everYthing... |
Originally Posted by ProjectDually
(Post 14824730)
Quick question, while I'm shopping to rebuild my engine, are main studs a must when rebuilding if you are going for a bit more HP? Or are they re-useable on an almost 300k mi engine? I know that the head studs need replaced, but for both sets of ARP Main and head studs will run almost 1k$ so I'm wondering if I can skip the 360$ main studs and just do the head studs. edit: Also, are connecting rods re-useable? or do I just need to replace the bearings?
|
Stock PCM is fine. I also wondered about starting mine the other day without IC pipes connected but wanted to check my rebuilt turbo for leaks. Its fine to do, just don't forget to take your rags out, LOL
|
Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel
(Post 14829629)
I don't believe main studs are required until much higher hp builds. What that hp number is though I don't know...
Originally Posted by williameub
(Post 14829640)
Connecting rods are reusable.
Also, another couple quick questions. How long can an engine sit with assembly grease before it needs to be started? I know greasing the cam is the biggest point of lubrication. And on the rebuild, did your main bearings and camshaft bearings remain stock, machine the cam/crank at all? Did that area of the block need machined at all? And is replacing all the intake and exhaust valves important too, or just replace the seats and valve spacer/holder(the name escapes me right now)? That's all I got for now, I just worked all night, so I'm off to sleep for a couple hours! |
not sure why i can't edit my own post - i guess its too old... anyway, i just pulled a quick parts list together as requested by Nik (Nossliw) and anyone else doing efuel, i guess. and hopefully this isn't poor form, but i just quoted myself below to have pictures to go with the list and keep people from having to go back and forth between post pages...
this is definitely not the cheapest route, as these Swage-lok/Yor-lok/Parker a-lok fittings are expensive, but as mentioned above, they're supposed to be second to none in terms of flareless tube fittings in leak and vibration resistance. other vendors i've used are listed below. McMaster Items 5182K807 3 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight Adapter For 1/4" Tube Od X 1/8 Npt Male 5182K112 2 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight Adapter For 1/4" Tube Od X 3/8 Npt Male 5182K125 1 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight Adapter For 3/8" Tube Od X 3/8 Npt Male 5182K463 2 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight For 1/4" Tube X 9/16"-18 Unf Male Thread 5182K464 1 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight For 3/8"tube X 9/16"-18 Unf Male Thread 5182K821 1 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, 90 Degree Elbow For 1/4" Tube Od X 1/8 Npt Male 4429K361 1 Each Low-pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, 3/8 Pipe Size, Wye 8989K721 1 Each Welded Type 304 Stainless Steel Tubing, 1/4" Od, .18" Id, .035" Wall, 6' Length 8989K761 2 Each Welded Type 304 Stainless Steel Tubing, 3/8" Od, .305" Id, .035" Wall, 6' Length 30555T41 2 Each Rubber-coated U-bolt, Type 304 Ss, 1/4"-20 Thread, For 1" Od, 3/4" Pipe 2421A4 1 Each Tube Bender For Soft Metals, For 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", And 1/2" Tube Od (def a high quality bender for ~$50. says for "soft materials" but is very sturdy and did the annealed 3/8" stainless no problem. also does 5/16" in the 3/8" dies just fine. even comes with math formulae in the instructions for determining raw material length and predicting bend locations...) Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FST-307030 (a cheaper alternative to the FASS regulator) RiffRaff http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/bosch-electric-fuel-pump/ (what i thought would be the highest quality stock one out there. i'll run one and see if two are required. thedieselstore.com Stanadyne Fuel Manager FM100 Pre-filter Assembly with 3/8" NPTF ports & 4.3" 30-micron element (31865) PN 33641 Stanadyne Fuel Manager FM100 Heater Kit - 100 Watt - Top Load 12 volt PN 31341 Fleetfilter.com BF7587 Baldwin BF7587 Fuel Filter (2 micron post filter) 24770 Wix 24770 & Napa 4770 Filter Base and i just spent another $200 on McMaster tonight for fittings, valves and such for the filter bases and pump plumbing down on the frame. i'll post that list once i get it assembled and have some pictures for it. one thing i will say about my setup if i had it to do over again: i would have not spent the time bending my own supply and return lines up the side of the engine, but rather just found a way to make the old ones work with modifications and minimal additional fittings. those stock lines do bend veeeery easily by hand and in the bender, so it probably could have been done, i was just stubborn and wanted the whole setup to be mine. ...and paid for that stubborness by wasting nearly a full day on those custom lines...
Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel
(Post 14609380)
Next up after all the injectors, rocker arms and such was some basic bolt-on stuff: valve covers, water pump pulley, etc.
Then, I dove headlong into the engine side of my DIY efuel system. There are many good write-ups on FTE here, so I wasn’t planning on another one, but if anyone wants to see more pics or needs more info, let me know. In brief, I used: this regulator: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FST-307030 on a homemade 7 ga steel holder bracket, ¼” 0.035 wall 304SS tubing for the local head runs, 3/8” 0.035 wall 304SS tubing for the supply and return lines, Parker a-lok fittings for all the connections (pricey, but easier than flaring everything and supposedly extremely vibration resistant), a 3/8 NPT wye-fitting as the split from the 3/8” supply to the ¼” head supplies a flat steel plate and a u-bolt (not shown in the pics below) to hold that fitting in place this tube bender (which I highly recommend for anyone in the market) for all the bends: McMaster-Carr (it says “for soft metals,” but it did great with the 3/8” stainless tube from McMaster and I’m sure would handle ½” SS easily as well). OK, here’s the pics: Overall view – the right side head supply runs under the T4 adapter plate, but off-center so as to leave access to the old fuel pump hole for the turbo oil drain line fitting (which is yet to be made . The left side head runs above the plate on a diagonal, but with plenty of clearance under the turbo. It runs into a straight a-lok fitting, which runs into the original, funny 45 fitting that lived in that spot. Its turn about 45 degrees downward though, now. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1b470260f4.jpg Regulator and top-side supply/return lines. That funny service look in the supply line is my attempt at leaving access to the IPR (since I’m reusing my 200k mile old one). https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...fe098c8288.jpg Front view I must say - and i may be biased, but all that stainless tubing is a beautiful thing! This picture doesn’t do it justice and the re-installed oil cooler hides some of it, but the most work by far in this project was getting these supply/return lines to run right up next to the front cover, behind the front oil cooler mount, through the “pass” between the head and HPOP reservoir, past the HPOP and to their homes. Probably a good 4 hours of fiddling right there. …and two tries on the supply line. …and even with all that, the supply will still contact the accessories bracket on that side. I plan on a p-clamp on the side of that bracket to hold it off. …we’ll see. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0d7d24af14.jpg |
That engine is gorgeous JP! Nice job buddy!:-X22
|
Originally Posted by ReBilld
(Post 14832279)
That engine is gorgeous JP! Nice job buddy!:-X22
|
Originally Posted by MOOSE_MACHINE
(Post 14832316)
I agree bill. That color combo sure compliments itself. 👏
|
I'm in love with both your motors guys! They are like beautiful women without any cloths on! I like my Ford grey IC pipes also. Just redid them when I had it all apart.
http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/...psdfd45837.jpg |
Originally Posted by oldbird1965
(Post 14832622)
I'm in love with both your motors guys! They are like beautiful women without any cloths on! I like my Ford grey IC pipes also. Just redid them when I had it all apart.
|
Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel
(Post 14831961)
this is definitely not the cheapest route, as these Swage-lok/Yor-lok/Parker a-lok fittings are expensive, but as mentioned above, they're supposed to be second to none in terms of flareless tube fittings in leak and vibration resistance. other vendors i've used are listed below. |
Thanks Nike, the ac clutch, pulley and coil are new. They went bad on me and I was lucky to get home. When I pulled the pulley off, all the bearing fell on the ground.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:10 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands