Favorite Method To Get Spindle Out Of Knuckle D60
 

Began the project today. Everything went smooth until it was time to pull the spindles. I fought the drivers side for 2-3 hours today.

What I have tried: soaking everything with pb blaster and 2-1 mix of atf and acetone.

Removed all the dirt from the diameter of the spindle to knuckle joint with a pick.

Dana 60 Speced Spindle Puller and 10 lb slide hammer (probably 150 strikes and no dice.)

Using a thick magazine and hitting the spindle up and down and side to side.

Removed the tie rod from the knuckle and used a long punch and hammer from the backside to knock spindle through, or started so I can use a slidehammer.

Attempting to use prybars or thin screwdrivers/chisels as wedges
Using a long 4x4 block of wood with a magazine on top to lower the spindle onto to bust it free

Any other things I can try? Truck isn't even from a salt state so this level of craziness is absurd.

Appreciate any help you can give me.

Haven't done that job myself, but here's a bump.

...and some sympathy. I hate those frustrating jobs.

Have you tried beer? On yourself?

Heat it up with a torch. Not cherry red. We used a small propane torch.

My dana 60 knuckles were infinitely harder to remove than the d50 ones. Magazine and hammer as well as the screwdriver/chisel deal was how I got it loose-ish. Once it was noticeably moving the slide hammer finished it off. Drivers side took HOURS. The passenger wasn't too bad. Maybe swap sides to boost morale. And use the torch...

Haha appreciate it.

Didn't have any today, maybe it will help the project go along good. :D

On the backside or front side? I assume get the knuckle hot not spindle?

Lol I don't feel bad then. I swore one of the above tricks I used would have busted it loose. I'll try the torch and so more getting after it tomorrow.

My favorite method if replacing the ball joints is to cut the ball joints, pull the entire knuckle and press the spindle out with my shop press. I wasted several days and many hours without it budging, cutting the ball joints and pressing the spindle out took less than 10 minutes.

this is how i do it.
step one: self medicate with alcohol.
step two: hit with large hammer. the bigger the better. ( spindle, not self)
step three: curse at spindle.
step four: remove knuckle.
step five: self medicate again to eliminate pain from all the beating with hammer.
step six: use the 30 ton press to press the damn thing out.
step seven: curse at self for not proceeding directly to step six

:-X04

Air hammer with blunt end tool all around spindle between studs.
Then beat up and down on block of wood at end of spindle.
Repeat air hammer and block beating as needed.
Seems to always work well.

Heat is last resort, although a little bit might just do it.

I always get them off with a slide hammer. No hitting the spindle with a hammer or anything. Just smack with a slide hammer and they always come off with less than 10 smacks.. I'm not in the rust belt or anything though, so that probably helps.

When I did my D44, I didn't have the slide hammer adapter. I spent at least 5-6 hours per side getting those off. Lots of hitting with a mini sledge and a block of wood, chisels, air hammer, etc. Everytime I've used the slide hammer adapter though, it has gone extremely smooth.

2x4 and a 2 pound hammer hasn't let me down yet. works like a charm no slide hammers, special tools, heat or anything. just put the 2x4 on top and beat on it. then do the same on one side then the other, then back to the top. you could from the bottom if you can get enough room to swing the hammer.

Ive been told you can use a 2 jaw puller. Thread the 2 spindle nuts back on and set the rod of the puller on the puller on the stub shaft. Then the Jaws around the nuts Now pull it off. I've never done it.

I wish I had "step 6" available, would make a lot of things easier.

Using a dead blow hammer against a 2x4 I didn't realize mine were moving at first, then only rocking back and forth. I first slid a thin putty knife in the crack and knocked it the other direction, and so forth with progressively thicker items wedged in there.

I can't imagine a propane torch getting enough heat into the spindle and knuckle to be effective. If heat is the tool you want to use, this is how I put heat into something with a lot of mass…

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...981229b174.jpg

Ever since I have found the slide hammer with adapter, It takes less than 15 hit ANYTIME . The block of wood, magazine, chisels, etc have wasted HOURS of my time and I will NEVER use them again.

Last week I took an 86 apart that was NEVER apart and it was a plow truck its whole life(200k) and IIRC it took 8-10 hits per side to have them on the floor

I tried it and I was over 100-150 strikes with the slide hammer adapter. I used a 10 lb slide hammer.

You better put down the PURSE and put on some M A N

I bought the slide hammer attachment..I haven't gotten to use it yet.after the last time I had mine apart I was inspired to get the right tool.I sure hope it works as well as I hope.

It works every bit as good as you hope it does. Lol. 3-5 minutes vs 6-7 hours for me.

And I didn't do my dust shields any good with the chisel.