The hpop reservoir, is that the inside of the pump so to speak? When I pulled the plug on top of the pump the other day oil came running out and also when I pulled the pump back off yesterday where the pump meets the block I had continuous oil coming out of there for quite a bit. Mustang309, it did turn into a no start but the truck did start and I drove it about 15 miles before it shut down on me in the driveway. It was starting better the few times I tried it after the drivers side swap but still longer than I thought to be acceptable so I was wondering if I still had a little air in the system and elevated the rpms up to try to purge any air out when after 20 30 seconds of that it just shut off and never restarted.
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As far as draining and dumping some oil in it are you referring to dumping it in the oil filter housing? I have new rotella 15w40 on the shelf I could drain some out and then DP some new oil in it. At this point 10 dollars worth of oil is the least of my concerns. lol
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This is the HPOP reservoir.
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_026.jpg This explains a little more about where things are and how they work. Powerstroke 6.0L Technical Intro Manual This is for the early 6.0, yours is an 05 and has some subtle changes. . |
The reservoir is a rather large space cast into the front of the lifter valley. It's under the oil cooler. The screen is what mustang_309 is talking about possibly being clogged. Under that screen is the hole the oil pump pulls the oil from.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6c7f3cef45.jpg In order to fill the reservoir manually you would have to remove the oil filter cap and filter and the standpipe the filter slips over. Looking down into the filter housing there are three screws at the base of the pipe. Only the one facing the rear needs to be removed, the other two can just be loosened slightly. The stand pipe will be easy to twist and pull out. A funnel will help of course as any oil that doesn't go in the center hole will drain back into the crankcase not into the reservoir. HPOP oil supply hole: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...748f35b4ab.jpg |
oil filter
Another shot in the dark here.
I assume the oil filter and cap are installed and tight during the cranking. Unless I am badly mistaken, if the oil filter and cap are not correct, the oil will drain back into the block and not feed the hpop. There is a drain valve in the oil filter housing that closes when the filter is pressed against it by the oil filter cap. |
What would have caused that reservoir to drain out? Having the pump off? Should I change that screen as a preventive thing since I just put a new pump on it?
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The cap is on and I believe tight I will double check that.
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Originally Posted by fordboy2
(Post 14503515)
What would have caused that reservoir to drain out? Having the pump off? Should I change that screen as a preventive thing since I just put a new pump on it?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e466582c68.jpg |
I have the short cap and if I remember correctly when I had the filter out I had a little bit of spring to it when I put the filter and cap back on. I do have a new motorcraft filter on the bench for it. Once it's running I plan to change the oil but I could put it in now if we think it will help.
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If you have the short cap you should be fine. There are some aftermarket filters (Fram for one) that have an adapter to take up the slack under the shorter cap, I'd skip all that crap and use the short cap and Motorcraft filter.
It's a bit of work to pull the oil cooler cover just to swap the screen. There has been an upgrade to the factory piece however, the early ones were a bronze color and the screen would tear and sometimes even pull completely out of the plastic frame. The new ones still have the plastic frame but the screen is a silver color (maybe stainless) and don't fail often. What does anyone else think about just pulling th IPR and cranking the truck to verify it's moving oil and has an oil supply? I know it would make a mess but would it be a valid test? |
Well, he's done two air tests. I think he's verified (several posts back) he's getting lp oil to the oil filter housing by cranking with the oil filter removed. He's pulled the icp and it didn't start. Have you checked the hpo pressure with the icp removed? If not, that'll be a simple test to see of there is a difference with and without the icp. I think verifying oil is getting to the hpop it's the valid next step.
Can you hear the difference with the ipr commanded closed and with it open? If you can, that suggests the ipr is working. |
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
(Post 14503586)
If you have the short cap you should be fine. There are some aftermarket filters (Fram for one) that have an adapter to take up the slack under the shorter cap, I'd skip all that crap and use the short cap and Motorcraft filter.
It's a bit of work to pull the oil cooler cover just to swap the screen. There has been an upgrade to the factory piece however, the early ones were a bronze color and the screen would tear and sometimes even pull completely out of the plastic frame. The new ones still have the plastic frame but the screen is a silver color (maybe stainless) and don't fail often. What does anyone else think about just pulling th IPR and cranking the truck to verify it's moving oil and has an oil supply? I know it would make a mess but would it be a valid test? |
I might start with pulling the ICP sensor and crank, then see if there is oil coming out. Same concept and a good idea.
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I can hear a difference when I powered the ipr during the air tests. Myself I will only run the motorcraft filter so I s hi old be good in the future with the short cap. I can pull the ipr to see if oil comes out but I have to pull the turbo back off to do it. Does not take long as I have gotten good at it but do we think it's worth it?
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Originally Posted by CPB1
(Post 14503644)
I might start with pulling the ICP sensor and crank, then see if there is oil coming out. Same concept and a good idea.
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