Pull the heads to get to the lifters?
 

Do I have to pull the heads off to get to the lifters?

The more I read, the more I suspect that I have a bent pushrod. And if that's the case, maybe a bad lifter. I'm going to pop the valve covers off soon and do a compression check to identify the bad cylinder(s). Once I find a bad one, I'll pull the push rods out. But is it possible to change the lifters without pulling the heads?

-Matt

You should be able to see a bent pushrod without doing a compression check. I found mine that way.

You just replaced the bent pushrod and went on your merry way?

Yes sir!

After I found the bent pushrod, I did a leak down test to see if my valves where bent and they weren't.

Pull the pushrods and roll em across a piece of glass.
Put them back in the hole you pull the from.
Change any bent one's and be done with it

Well, a visual inspection yields no culprits. To have the 2200 RPM wall, lack of power, and white smoke that I'm experiencing, I was expecting to see a pushrod bent up so bad that it would be a pretzel.

Compression test next.

Sounds like injector o-rings to me. Have you checked the fuel filter? Is it all black or does the fuel in the bowl have a dark color to it?

I don't think it's the o-rings. The injectors are new Rosewood Stage-1s that I put in a couple of months ago and symptoms persist. There is no oil in the fuel bowl. Plus, it's missing through the entire band.


Symptoms:
Misfires, won't rev above 2k ish, doesn't build much boost, blows white smoke when you get on it hard. There is no performance chip on this truck.

I've replaced:
All 8 injectors with Rosewood Stage-1
CPS with a new Ford dark gray

I've unplugged the following one at a time, with little to no difference:
EBPV (still unplugged)
ICP
EBP Sensor
MAP Sensor

I've checked the fuel pressure, 50-60 at idle and WOT

I bought Torque Pro for my Android, and this is what I'm seeing while driving. The low value is at idle, the high value is a never-exceeds value at WOT

IPR Duty Cycle 14-35%
HPOP Pressure (Confirmed with gauge) 650-2300psi
Injector Pulsewidth 1.1-1.7 ns
EBP 14.5-21
MAP 14.5-20
Boost (Confirmed with gauge) 0-5 psi

Torque Pro says there's no codes.

All of the common-to-injector pin (2 to 3 and 3 to 4) resistance measurements are dead-on 3.5 ohm.

Logic says that it's not building boost because it's not building EBP because it's not getting enough fuel. However, I am definitely getting white smoke and a misfire when I romp on it, which leads me to believe that the injectors are firing at the wrong time. I replaced the CPS with a new Ford unit and there was no difference.

All I have left is to do a compression test, IDM, and maybe the barometric pressure sensor.

I really want to slap another IDM on there and see what happens. AE would be awesome too, so that I can check Barometric Pressure, TPS (Although not likely the issue), buzz test, CCT, etc.

Have any of the pigtails to the valve cover gaskets been changed? If so, maybe who ever changed them miss wired 2 injectors. This would leave those 2 injectors firing at the wrong time.

Sorry, I lose track of who has done what to their trucks when there are so many threads floating around. It sounds like you have the basics covered.

If you're thinking pushrods, make sure you're looking at the rockers as well. They've been known to bend/break from time to time.

Well the UVCHs say "China" on them. But they appear to be in fantastic shape, and ohm out just fine, so I don't suspect that is the problem.

The pigtails don't appear to be spliced.

I'll let you guys know what the compression test yields.

You can replace the pig tails and wrap up the soldered connections so well that you can't tell you ever did anything. If 2 (or more) injector wires are crossed it wouldn't show up on an ohm meter. I'd place a small bet that's your problem.

I hope Jim (Hussler) checks this thread out. He has a list of the original wire colors to each injector. You'd have to open each loom and go back to the original wiring to know if they are hooked up correctly. That reminds me, you can tell if the pigtails have been replaced if any of the injector power wire colors are repeated at the plugs.

I doubt that is the issue if the trouble started all at once, but just in case here is the IDM pinout:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1314836746

It wouldn't be a terrible idea to pull the connector off the IDM and ohm all the way through the wiring from the injector plug to the IDM connector.

Compression test: Cold engine, full batteries, all glow plugs removed, 6 revolutions.

2: 360
4: 360
6: 380
8: 320

1: 360
3: 360
5: 360
7: 360

I re-tested number 8 twice and came out at 340-350 both times. It is indeed a little low, but not as low as it appeared at first.

Hole number 8 looks to be a little lower than the rest but I'd be thrilled if my compression test had returned those numbers...

Well, maybe it's the damn IPR after all? At WOT, the duty cycle maxes out at 35% (It won't go higher) and I never see the ICP above 2300.

I'm going to dead-head the pump and see what's up there. But I'll check the harness for resistance from IDM to injector first.

Hah! Sounds like my truck! Mine will occasionally go above those pressures, but it rarely sees 2500 PSI. I've seen it spike the IPR to 45% or so just once and if the truck that good all the time I would be thrilled. I've changed literally every sensor on the engine to try and diagnose my issue. Hopefully you will have better luck than I am having. I think mine needs either a new HPOP or Injectors and since you have already done the injectors I'm thinking more and more that it may be the pump.

By the way, if you end up needing lifters or pushrods and don't mind used, I can hook you up with whatever you need for the price of the shipping. It'll take them a few days to get from OH to WA though. If you're in a hurry or want new parts, Riffraff Diesel would be your best bet since they're a lot closer to you and have the best prices and customer service on this kind of thing.

Well, since the compression came back mostly good, I pulled the IPR. One of the seals is bad but I'm not sure if I did that during disassembly or not.

Edit: Nevermind, apparently that seal is supposed to be split:

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ipr-complete-re-seal-kit/

I've learned two lessons that I'd like to share:

1) Even if your pin-out resistance checks come back fine between the IDM plug and the injectors, the truck still won't run if you don't plug it back in.

2) If you see an o-ring sitting in the valley when you have the IPR out, you should probably recover it. Then when you start the truck up and you leak several gallons of fuel in just a few minutes, you'll have it handy to put it back on the fuel pressure regulator where it belongs. If you don't recover said o-ring, guess what, you get to pull the bowl again.

-Matt

Lol, life lessons... Sometimes the best lessons are the hardest ones.

I was thinking he bought the truck with the miss/smoke/low power issues, but I just looked back through this thread and that isn't apparent to me now. I must have mixed something else up with this thread.

I did buy the truck with this issue. I paid $1500 for this cherry 4x4 standard cab it and it came with a chord of firewood. The engine has fantastic compression.

Now if I could only figure out what's wrong.

Oil Aeration, Fuel Aeration, IDM.

That is the path I'm heading down now. I don't know what else it could be, unless the o-rings are indeed bad, or the injectors I got from Rosewood are bad.

Then I stand by what I said about injector wires being crossed where they're spliced with the new pigtail harnesses. Its free to check, it just takes time.

I'd agree that the wiring, IDM and maybe even the PCM would be the ones to start with.

I already checked the wiring, it is not crossed or shorted.

I'll get around to throwing another IDM on it when I can find one.

Thanks
-Matt

There is definitely a hole in the rubber line for the return line.

It looks like all of the hoses going to this bowl on the low pressure side are just run-of-the-mill black fuel hoses with screw-type clamps. I could replace all of them with more of the same and maybe fix an air leak. Who knows?

You can use SR9? fuel injection hose. The blue factory stuff is rated for a lot more heat, but others have used the fuel injection hose.

Well I pulled the fuel bowl out and replaced all of the hoses. I used transmission oil cooler hose. The old hoses were all bulged and in very bad shape.

It didn't make a difference.

So I found a guy parting out a '99 powerstroke, drove an hour and a half to drink beer with him while I pulled the IDM out of his truck and plugged it into mine, revved it once and said "I'll take it!". I gave him $100 and my old IDM so that he can move his parts truck around.

It is night and day. I am in a very good mood.

Thank you everyone!

So wait, the IDM fixed it then?

Yes, the IDM was bad. I traded him my bad one for his good one, and gave him $100.

The truck runs great now.

Glad you got it going. Sounds to me like you got a great deal.

Sweet deal! I'm glad you're up and running.Sounds like now you've got a great running truck for not a lot of coin.