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-   1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum37/)
-   -   Dad's Carb Choice (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1299808-dads-carb-choice.html)

the okie 11-20-2014 09:32 PM

Gary,I just saw this.Cost a bit to much for me.But it is nice to see someone thinking out of the box

the okie 11-20-2014 09:38 PM

opps forgot link
SILVERBACK CARBS

Gary Lewis 11-20-2014 09:58 PM

Wow! That certainly looks out of the box. Unfortunately the video didn't have sound on this iPad, but the pictures are cool. I'll try tomorrow on a windows machine. Thanks!

FordFETruck 11-20-2014 10:01 PM

Me thinks it's going to have a NEW to the market price tag on it to go with it.

the okie 11-20-2014 10:24 PM

Ouch,2300 to 2800.

ArdWrknTrk 11-20-2014 10:30 PM

For what is essentially a two barrel progressive flatslide with eight needle jets???

The flow cones top and bottom are trying to make up for poor manifold design?
If it were a race car there would be no room for that stuff.

Brad from Oz 11-21-2014 06:09 PM

Wow, you would really want a good reason to stick with a carb at that price, given that a drop in EFI solution is the same money.

Gary - forgive me if I have missed it, but have you considered something like this Edelbrock E Street EFI, rated up to 600 hp.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...3606/overview/

Gary Lewis 11-21-2014 06:39 PM

Brad - I've considered it but want to go with either old school or Ford components for this build. In fact, I've thought of going with Ford's EFI and an E4OD later like Bill has done.

But, I don't think I'll be paying $2300 - $2800 for a carb, even if it is temp and altitude compensated. Something that doesn't have real smarts just wouldn't seem to justify that kind of coin when a true EFI system is available for the same money.

Brad from Oz 11-22-2014 06:49 AM


Originally Posted by Gary Lewis (Post 14840842)
Brad - I've considered it but want to go with either old school or Ford components for this build. In fact, I've thought of going with Ford's EFI and an E4OD later like Bill has done.

But, I don't think I'll be paying $2300 - $2800 for a carb, even if it is temp and altitude compensated. Something that doesn't have real smarts just wouldn't seem to justify that kind of coin when a true EFI system is available for the same money.

Ok, just make sure you go with one of the good programmable systems, the recent "black oak" Ford ECU's are very powerful and nowadays easily programmed to suit. You might however struggle to find an OEM fuel pump and injectors capable of sustaining the projected power of your engine.

That carb might be good to go with a points dizzy on some EMP-proof survivalists vehicle but that's about all I can think of. At the end of the day it's still a carb. Albeit a crazy priced carb :-X15

Gary Lewis 11-22-2014 09:32 PM

Ok, I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to start out with the Street Demon, and will dyno with it and maybe the 750 Holley I have, although I think the SD will be the carb when the engine goes into the truck. I really like the polymer body, the fact that there are no gaskets below the "water line", and the simplicity of it. Then there's the little bitty primaries with the triple-stack boosters that should be good for economy as well as part-throttle response.

ArdWrknTrk 11-23-2014 04:55 AM

Gary,
The body is plastic, or just the float bowl liners?

Gary Lewis 11-23-2014 09:34 AM

The body, or complete float bowl, is plastic. It sits on the throttle plate, and all of the working parts hang off of the top so there's no thermal connection to the engine. Actually, as I think about it that's not 100% true as there are 6 screws that come through the throttle plate, pass through bosses in the float bowl, and thread into the top. But the area of those screws to the area of the bowl is probably 1%, so effectively there is no heat transfer.

I wish they had been able to reverse the direction of the screws so they come out via the top. That would have made getting to the jets easier, but apparently there just wasn't a way to do that. And, I've read that you can run them with just the two screws that do come in from the top while you are tuning, and then add the other 6 when done. But, otherwise I'm pretty happy with the carb's design. A nice combo of AVS and Thermoquad.


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