https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...953d9f306f.jpg
I just purchased a 1992 F600 Crew Cab with the 6.6 and automatic Allison Transmission. I want to make a pick up out of it so I need to shorten the wheelbase and get the back drive shaft cut down. Has anyone done this before and could offer some advice? The VIN is 1FDNK62P2NVA21354 if anyone has a decoder it would be nice to see what it originally came with versus what is there now. I will post more pics as we go, we just picked up a 1992 dually bed so now it is time to get the frame and drive shaft attended to. |
It's done all the time.
If the frame rails are straight and the same size front to back, you can simply redrill the frame and move the rear suspension forward. What type of suspension does it have? Spring or air? Spring suspensions offer a punishing ride for what you are doing. As for the drive shaft, once you have a final dimension, you can take that to a driveline shop to have it rewelded, balanced etc. Again, not something you can do at home unless home is a machine shop with a lathe and high powered welding equipment. If you have to cut the frame, again, higher powered welding equipment (not a 110v Harbor Freight wire welder....) is required, along with proper welding techniques and reinforcing. Not a job to learn on imo. |
Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
(Post 14402382)
Spring suspensions offer a punishing ride for what you are doing.
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...d7980ecbc2.jpg
I agree with the punishing ride but I should have my 36ft fifthwheel or 36ft goosneck attached a lot of the time. I took it out for a spin with the enclosed 36ft goosneck and it felt pretty good. I am assuming from that, that 1500 to 2000 lb pin weight will smooth out the ride. What I have decided after mounting the 8 ft bed I have is too have the front of another bed welded to it. I have 30 inches to the cab after the 8 ft bed is placed so I plan on leaving a 2 inch gap for flex and butt welding the front section of another bed to it. I say I, but I mean my friend who does body work. So I will have an 8ft dually bed with a 28 inch extension that will provide a nice place to bring up my stacks and provide a nice place for chains binders and misc stuff, while keeping the side view looking like a long bed dually. I have to raise the bed 5 inches off the frame to get the body lines right so I plan on welding 5x2x48 3/16 tube steel across the frame then mount the bed to that structure. My existing goosneck plate will have to be rasied 7 1/2 inches so that plate will stick through the bed. What I have to figure out is how to securely mount that 7 1/2 inches above the frame and make it adjustable so my gooseneck ball and my fifth wheel hitch can be rasied or lowered de pending on the trailer I have hooked to it. I have already had all the axles flipped on my trailers because my 1 ton is a 4x4 with 20 inch wheels and everything was to short to clear the bed rails. I think I will mock it all up with wood and go pull under the fifth wheel and goosneck. then decide which I want more, the body lines to match up or if I want to haul my trailers. Any ideas or drawings of existing hitch hook ups would be appreciated. |
Originally Posted by wagners
(Post 14402110)
I just purchased a 1992 F600 Crew Cab with the 6.6 and automatic Allison Transmission. I want to make a pick up out of it so I need to shorten the wheelbase and get the back drive shaft cut down. Has anyone done this before and could offer some advice?
The VIN is 1FDNK62P2NVA21354 if anyone has a decoder it would be nice to see what it originally came with versus what is there now. I will post more pics as we go, we just picked up a 1992 dually bed so now it is time to get the frame and drive shaft attended to. |
What is that and where do I look?
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It's the injector pump that made the Cummins 5.9 famous in 94-98 Dodges. The 2 pumps it can be are an MW-pump, or a P-pump. Sure fire way to tell is the numbers on the pump. It starts with PES6, then the next will be the model(MW or P). Either pump has some hot rodding potential.
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Awesome truck Wagners :-X21
I ultimately want to exchange the regular cab on the F-600 I'm trying to obtain and replace it with a crew cab. Here are some pictures of the truck... |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3109916e2c.jpg
The front of the Beast! I would cut off the snowplow mount https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c451b554e3.jpg Driver-front hub https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...95f4e313da.jpg the water tank would also go https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...868ce24cdc.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4aae088c7d.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...fc770c9635.jpg Stamped VIN tag https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6527fa87f5.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0f20a49ce8.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...9ccad472c8.jpg total mileage 28,672.8 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...97692c097a.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0428cebc3a.jpg Info plate about 4x4 equipment https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...cd081cc553.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0649bc3d3c.jpg transfer case tag |
Anyone know what the transmission code "AA" mean? And the axle code "AG" mean?
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Best oil for 7.3 F-600 engine
What is the best oil for a 7.3 1989 F-600 Engine. In central Florida, extreme heat conditions, truck is driven very little but sometimes on long runs.
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Originally Posted by DFitzhunter
(Post 14606283)
What is the best oil for a 7.3 1989 F-600 Engine. In central Florida, extreme heat conditions, truck is driven very little but sometimes on long runs.
Either engine, I'd say regular ol Shell Rotella 15W40. |
Originally Posted by Fossilman Ford
(Post 14408165)
~snipped photos of 4x4 awesomeness~
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