1.0 Exhaust Housing
Hi guys,
I have a big project ahead of me next spring and I am curious what you guys think. Obviously with a bigger exhaust housing comes performance increases. I have two options in mind. 1. BD-Power 1.0 A/R Turbine Housing, my money saver option. BD-Power 1.0 A/R Turbine Housing 1047005 2. Garrett 1.0 A/R Wastegated Exhaust Housing Riffraff Diesel: Garrett 1.0 A/R Wastegated Exhaust Housing I just want to know if saving 50 bucks is going to worth it or go with the big name Garrett. |
For the money, I'd get a van turbo with 1.15 exhaust housing. Rebuild and paint, then sell the stocker and you'll come out really good! The good folks on CL will give ya $400 if ya dont mind asking. ;)
Check car-part.com for a van turbo near you. Usually find'em under $300... |
I would go van turbo but thats not what I want my build to be. I want to have a stock compressor side and stock injectors. Im just trying to make make stock move a little bit fast than everyone else.
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That site won't let me search parts without my VIN#, Ill pass.
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Originally Posted by DHamSTER
(Post 13651596)
That site won't let me search parts without my VIN#, Ill pass.
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A 1.0 housing isnt gonna do much for ya there... At best it'll reduce drive pressure a little and help surge.
I ran the van turbo and stock sticks in my X. It was a very good combo that towed a 12k lb Toy Hauler like a boss and laid down 324hp on the dyno. The rebuilt van turbo was $400, outlet adapter $100 and $10 for the VHT paint. I sold my +300k mile stocker for $175 (to a friend) and later sold the van turbo for $400 needing a compressor wheel. Since ya seemed concerned about $50 - I thought I'd share some numbers with you. |
So you spent money on a van turbo and outlet, selling your stock turbo, eventually selling your van turbo..... for a compressor wheel? I don't see how you made out on top.
Anyway. Does anyone else have an opinion besides a van turbo, an opinion on something in this post? |
$50 may not be much to you, but a guy on a budget that matters, which is why I asked if saving 50 bucks is worth it with this option for my build.
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I have no experience with either of the housings .
If I remember correctly Jason sold his van turbo and went with the bigger S366 T4 style turbo. He just said that the van turbo needed a new wheel when he sold it. |
Not sure a 1.0 housing will add performance with stock sticks and stock tune (no tunes right?)
I'm toying with adding the 1.0 garrett housing when I upgrade sticks, but until then, the stock turbo 0.84 housing handles things pretty well - EGT stays inbounds. You might trade some spoolup with a larger exhaust housing and no added fuel. Will that be ok? I put on the ATS compressor housing to cure the surge I was having with tunes, and it seems to give enough air - about 27psi in 60e and just a little grey smoke (I think we're calling it haze). Riffraff's ported housing wheel may go along way to adding the needed air bigger sticks need, but might also help clear up the haze with the stock sticks. |
Sure, a van turbo is a better option for stock sticks but thats not why I posted this.... Im looking to run a stock turbo and stock sticks, so Im looking for a better option on exhaust housings for this turbo.
Im just trying to make this turbo perform the best that it can. |
My plan is to eventually get Beans tunes, But that chip will come shortly after my exhaust work. Some fuel mods will follow the chip. So I have a plan to counteract those performance losses running no tunes for a short period of time.
But yes it is okay to have some minor spool up loss until I finish my build. Im really just looking for which of those housings are better. I mean they are identical, does it just come down to price or is there something that will have a huge effect in the long run? |
Originally Posted by BWST
(Post 13652038)
Riffraff's ported housing wheel may go along way to adding the needed air bigger sticks need, but might also help clear up the haze with the stock sticks. That's my turbo work before the tuner. |
a lot of these housings are personal taste, some want more top end which would get the job done with a 1.15. some love the stocker, with super quick spool but runs out at of oomphh about 2500 rpms, for me personally and from what Dylan (DHamSTER) and I have talked about, the 1.0 is a good option for middle ground, sure it wouldnt spool like the .84 but itd spool better than the 1.15 while still giving you a better top end than the .84, and slightly less top end then the 1.15. so youve got the best of both worlds.
Again IMHO it really depends on what the owner wants. Im also curious if anyone has anything bad to say about the BD housing as sometime in the future (after i get my transmission sorted out) id like to get a 1.0 housing. |
Exactly, I haven't heard or read any reviews on the BD housing. Why spend more money when you don't need to.
SO if anyone can clear up why the BD is or isn't a good idea that would be appreciated. |
And to remind everyone I still plan on running STOCK sticks, 1.15 would be laggy, everyone knows what a stocker can do, but like he said 1.0 would be the best of both worlds, higher end "oomph" and still a nice spool.
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Originally Posted by DHamSTER
(Post 13651511)
Hi guys,
I have a big project ahead of me next spring and I am curious what you guys think. Obviously with a bigger exhaust housing comes performance increases. I have two options in mind.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
(Post 13651901)
A 1.0 housing isnt gonna do much for ya there... At best it'll reduce drive pressure a little and help surge.
Back in '04, the ATS housing was on national back order and had been for months. I wanted to do some preventive maintenance on the Ex because I was setting it up to tow heavy (10k lb travel-trailer) and I wanted to be pro-active. I can't comment on the two you have listed, but I can tell you Beans product worked great for my needs. Stewart |
Don't waste your money on the big head waste gate. Just tighten the stocker down and you will be good to go.
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Originally Posted by DHamSTER
(Post 13652195)
And to remind everyone I still plan on running STOCK sticks, 1.15 would be laggy, everyone knows what a stocker can do, but like he said 1.0 would be the best of both worlds, higher end "oomph" and still a nice spool.
Yes, I've played with turbos a little and I helped put a 1.0 housing on a friends truck. I may be qualified to provide input on your topic - albeit not which 1.0 housing is best... Anything good about 1.0 housing is better with 1.15 and the van charger's larger exducer on the turbine wheel. But, with these things we often find people are able to get what they want to see - even if they have to blurr their vision to see it that way. I stand by my statement that a 1.0 housing will provide no performance gain. It may help reduce surge in some applications by reducing BP though... There is no reason for a WG with stock sticks either. Its especially silly to spend money on Big Head. |
I didnt show my math earlier, but I was trying to demonstrate the van turbo is a cheap way to go. Betweem selling my stocker and later the van turbo when I moved up - the van turbo was nearly free. I sold the van turbo to a forum member or I would've asked more for it.
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I would like to bring up AzPatMans turbo, he got a van turbo, rebuilt it and put a banks 1.0 housing on it instead of the 1.15 van turbos housing why?I'm gonna take a guess and say for better low end , also the garret 38r comes with a 1.0 housing all im pointing out is I see a lot more turbos with a 1.0 or
similar sizehousing than I do a larger one, if sticking with stock sticks IMHO its not really necessary, 1.0 housing and a billet wheel is pretty close to what you paid for a van turbo. That's just the way I look at it, and personally think its really opinion based, I'm not saying your wrong but I saying I've heard a lot of people say they don't like lag with van turbos. |
I know you can push the stocker Wastegate pretty high in PSI but there's got a max point and I'm hoping for in the 30s.
Are you running in stock tune or are you always running in something else to keep it from being laggy? I've gotta go with Diehard on this one. I've heard of more people running a 1.0. It's a happy medium kind of thing. Now it's just a decision on which one to get. If we go back to the original post that's what I want to know. |
Stock 1.0 replacement housing should not fit on van turbo... a van turbo has a bigger exhaust siee wheel than a stock turbo and bigger than a 38r ...comparing granny smith to macintosh
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From what I'm reading, it looks like a stock turbo with an ATS housing, riffraff ported housing wheel, and 1.0 exh housing is essentially a rebuildable "38r", yielding the airflow of the 38r without the throwaway nature. I wonder if that's accurate. I've liked upgrading the turbo as money is available, a piece at a time, so this has been a good option. I'm hoping it will be enough air to support 160/80 or 160/100 sticks one day.
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Originally Posted by rat49f6
(Post 13654028)
Stock 1.0 replacement housing should not fit on van turbo... a van turbo has a bigger exhaust siee wheel than a stock turbo and bigger than a 38r ...comparing granny smith to macintosh
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Originally Posted by BWST
(Post 13654036)
From what I'm reading, it looks like a stock turbo with an ATS housing, riffraff ported housing wheel, and 1.0 exh housing is essentially a rebuildable "38r", yielding the airflow of the 38r without the throwaway nature. I wonder if that's accurate. I've liked upgrading the turbo as money is available, a piece at a time, so this has been a good option. I'm hoping it will be enough air to support 160/80 or 160/100 sticks one day.
I'm still thinking about doing the 1.0 housing, Riffraff ported housing, and Riffraff 6/6 wheel. The ported housing is what I can't decide on because it does the same thing the new wheel would do. |
Rat49f6 that's why I said BANKS 1.0 housing, they make a 1.0 for the van turbo,
BWST it would literally be a rebuildable 38r if he machined the back plate and compressor housing and fit a 66mm compressor wheel but the setup he has should be a good strong turbo that should be good for 160's |
Originally Posted by diehardstroker
(Post 13654070)
BWST it would literally be a rebuildable 38r if he machined the back plate and compressor housing and fit a 66mm compressor wheel but the setup he has should be a good strong turbo that should be good for 160's |
The ported housing let's you compress more air with the stock wheel without surging. The "wicked wheel" reduced surge by sacrificing how much air it grabbed. I think the ported housing is the way to go to get more air. Then add the ported housing wheel from riffraff - I think it's different than the 6/6 wheel. The ported housing wheel grabs even more air - hopefully without re-introducing surge.
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Originally Posted by BWST
(Post 13654077)
The ported housing let's you compress more air with the stock wheel without surging. The "wicked wheel" reduced surge by sacrificing how much air it grabbed. I think the ported housing is the way to go to get more air. Then add the ported housing wheel from riffraff - I think it's different than the 6/6 wheel. The ported housing wheel grabs even more air - hopefully without re-introducing surge.
To save money I want the 6/6 wheel. I'll spend 200 to eliminate the surge instead of the 400 dollar ported housing. The ported housing with my 6/6 wheel is a future option idk if spending 400 is worth it. Yea the ported housing wheel is different than the 6/6. Diehardstroker just purchased one, talk to him. |
Originally Posted by BWST
(Post 13654077)
The ported housing let's you compress more air with the stock wheel without surging. The "wicked wheel" reduced surge by sacrificing how much air it grabbed. I think the ported housing is the way to go to get more air. Then add the ported housing wheel from riffraff - I think it's different than the 6/6 wheel. The ported housing wheel grabs even more air - hopefully without re-introducing surge.
DHAMSTER I was talking about another members home built turbo. |
I missed the banks part ...wasnt aware they made a housing for a van turbo
As far as a factory turbo goes, changing housings will never give you a bump in horsepower it will only change at what point your turbo is effective Without changing the wheels you will not flow more air Id say for the money a van turbo machined to fit a riffraff 38r billet wheel would be the ultimate drop in turbo... and yes it will flow as much or more air as a 38r and is rebuildable |
sorry, the WW came to mind because the 6/6 is also a wheel with high/low blades and has to compromise to pull air without surging - still better than the stock wheel based on riffraff's tests.
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Originally Posted by BWST
(Post 13654121)
sorry, the WW came to mind because the 6/6 is also a wheel with high/low blades and has to compromise to pull air without surging - still better than the stock wheel based on riffraff's tests.
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rat49f6,
Id say for the money a van turbo machined to fit a riffraff 38r billet wheel would be the ultimate drop in turbo... and yes it will flow as much or more air as a 38r and is rebuildable Thanks :-jammin |
Originally Posted by snknby123
(Post 13654877)
rat49f6,
I have a Van Turbo. Has anyone actually machined a Van Turbo to work with a riffraff 38r billet wheel? I would be interested in this. Thanks :-jammin |
Originally Posted by DHamSTER
(Post 13654019)
I know you can push the stocker Wastegate pretty high in PSI but there's got a max point and I'm hoping for in the 30s.
Are you running in stock tune or are you always running in something else to keep it from being laggy? I've gotta go with Diehard on this one. I've heard of more people running a 1.0. It's a happy medium kind of thing. Now it's just a decision on which one to get. If we go back to the original post that's what I want to know. |
Originally Posted by 01PS
(Post 13654985)
I second the opinion of the big head being a waste. I got no more boost with it. It happened to be free so oh well.
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Originally Posted by DHamSTER
(Post 13654019)
I know you can push the stocker Wastegate pretty high in PSI but there's got a max point and I'm hoping for in the 30s.
My response simply stated that I saw no difference between the two actuators. Did I say I did or did not get a performance gain? Don't think so. You need a beer. Or 18. |
Van turbo fixes both of theses issues. .. won't over boost it with stock injectors so non wastegated is great and gives you more range to use the full potential of a sock injector
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