Truck starts cranking when batt. is connected.
 

66' Ford econoline starts cranking as soon as I connect the battery cables. The ignition is off and I notice that the starter keeps cranking.
Before this dilemma, I had figured out that the solenoid burned out on me. I got a new solenoid and installed it. All the connections where back where they belong. So now my last step was connecting the cables to the battery.
Advice I took:
* disconnected small wires from the terminals that have "S" and "I". Reconnected the cables to the battery. Still cranked. They result could be a defective solenoid? Or the starter may have something stuck or welded to keep it cranking?
My point may be is how to test the new solenoid or what to start poking at the starter to see if it went bad. Please feel free to correct my questions, ideas or approach.
Thanks all Ford enthusiast for you recent tips and advice:-jammin

I have a 65 Econoline van. When I first tried to get the engine to run, after a couple of tries the starter relay (solinoid) seemed to weld the contacts closed. I replaced the relay, and after a few attempts at starting, the relay stuck ON again. Replaced the relay and it happened again.

I then replaced the starter motor ($70 for a Motorcraft core rebuilt in China from Autozone) and a new relay, and I haven't had any problems since.

Autozone checked the old starter and said it seemed good, but their test isn't under load. In my case, it seems the old starter under load was drawing way too much current.

If you have disconnected the signal leads (small wires) from the solenoid, and it still sends power to the starter, then it is stuck in the ON position, and the solenoid should be replaced. Sometimes a whack with a hammer fixes it. Get a good quality replacement.

like EmilBarnabas indicated the solenoid is stuck. you mentioned you used more than one replacement. One other thing to make sure is the battery is in good shape and can handle the load. A marginal battery will extend the start up curve (power required to initially spin the starter) and this will burn the commutator and brushes of the starter but also burn (pit) or weld the contacts in the solenoid. marginal doesn't ‎necessarily mean it won't crank but it will damage parts, also the cheaper the parts the faster the failure. so by all means "don' t by parts made in countries where the road have no name" it will sting a bit but some things pay to go O.E.M.
p.s. a weak battery will also beat up your voltage regulator and the alternator
Good luck, Oh yeah about advance auto i went through 3 generic ignition switches before i got one that work!

the only way this is possible is if you installed the bat cable together with the start cable, or the solenoid is bad if you had the trigger wire unhooked.

Back to replacing my alternator
 

Since the last post I have learned and repaired my 66' econo. After my 2nd time getting AAA to take my truck home, my educated guess is the alternator. Though to further advance, repair, and keep it functioning properly, does anyone know any links to obtain proper wire guage to the electrical components?:-jammin