Happy to help. And Tim did the same for me.

Ill definitely be getting in touch with them once Im ready for my engine build, still doing body work.

You are very welcome guys.
We try to make it pretty straight forward simple.
We have built and dyno'd 400 engines from 350 HP to 620HP, and many in between.

So when we try and sell someone parts and kit, we are not guessing at it.

A couple of things for you guys that are building an engine that I learned on pushrod length selection:

When you build an engine...the variables such as how much resurfacing was done to the heads, the engine deck, the base-circle of the cam, the valve-train geometry and the rocker selection (and any shims required under the rockers - particularly if you upgrade to roller-rockers) all have in impact on proper push-rod length. You want adequate pre-load, but you also need enough range left so that the hydraulic lifters never max out (which will bend your push-rods).

To determine what push-rod length you need, you need a few things:

• An adjustable length pushrod
• A sliding caliper (I use a long Cen-Tech cheapo digital one)
• Either a lifter identical to what you are using that has been made solid, or you need oil pressure while checking

In short, you make sure the lifters are on the cam base circle (away from the intake or exhaust bumps), make sure your lifter is fully pumped up (or use a solid lifter you built) and install the adjustable length push-rod and take up all the slack (zero lash). Remove it and measure it. Add desired pre-load length to the number you have, and that is the length of the push-rod you need. A good amount to add is .050".

On pre-load: Tim Meyer recommended .030-.060" pre-load. Tom Monroe (author) recommends .090". Comp Cams cites .020-.070" as being a typical pre-load range

To make a solid lifter, you buy and extra lifter or two and hit them with a welder at the edges so they cannot compress. Some guys also fill them with washers.

I used the oil pressure technique. Fill engine with oil...use an electric hand-drill (in reverse, if I recall correctly) with an oil pump priming tool and then have an assistant run the drill while you perform the push-rod length check with the adjustable length push-rod. Tighten the rod to zero-lash (no slop) The running drill keeps the lifter "pumped up" so it cannot compress, and you get an accurate check:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27062

I hope that helps you guys have a scientific method for calculating push-rod length vs. just guessing.

Reps to you for that! It will help me in the near future. I believe I have the same book by Monroe, so had his directions. But I understand yours better.

I think my approach on the solid lifter will be to make it. I should be able to turn a piece on the lathe to the right diameter and length to represent a pumped up lifter, which will be less expensive than buying another roller pair. I'll make sure the end that rests on the cam is smooth and the end that takes the push rod has a divit to retain the rod - and measure the divit. Sound reasonable?

That does sound reasonable. I used Lunati tie-bar hydraulic roller lifters, and I did not want the cost of buying (and destroying) a "pair"...and I did not see an easy way to take mine apart and add washers...thus my decision to use the oil pressure technique:


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...45674c1f5c.jpg

Mine look identical - hence my reluctance as well. And, my understanding is that the at-rest position is fully extended - right?

Correct. .

Great idea Shane!!

I apologize, If I am using my head, this is what we tell our customers.

We will send the customer an adjustable push rod and a oil primer to borrow.
Adjust the push rod just like to described, send us the primer and push rod.
We will then measure it and send the appropriate push rods.
Then a customer will not have to invest in those item that they may never use again.

Guessing I forgot to tell you??

:-hijacked
Tim - Since you supplied my pushrods, which you guessed to be correct for a zero-decked block and using the pistons, heads, gasket, lifters, and rockers you supplied, do you think my approach outlined above is reasonable? Meaning I'll make a lifter exactly the length of the others and an adjustable pushrod and mock it up that way. Reasonable?

Wow amazing what yocan do with these motors I'm in the process of rebuilding mine now and if you and yours has been an inspiration just wish I had more funds available to go all out.

Glad I can be of inspiration! I'm extremely pleased with my engine. The truck is currently my daily driver now and I am loving all the low end torque.

I'll reiterate everyone else's sentiments: this was a great and inspiring read. I've got a 400M and C6 to put in my '55 F100, and I've been looking for help and info on the 400 build. I'll definitely be using TMI for my rebuild (Tim, I'm the one that's been pestering you via emails recently), and it inspires confidence knowing that this was such a success.

What intake are you using? The Weiand? Wonder what you used to adapt the 4bbl 1806 Eddy to the motor.

Thanks! Yes, I used the Wieand aluminum intake. I'm very pleased with it and the Eddy 1806. In fact, we like the Eddy so much that we are considering swapping out our holley trucks with edelbrocks. They just seem to be alot less temperamental.

glad to hear your considering TMI. Tim really takes the time to help you out with any questions or problems you may have. I've recommended him to a lot of people and will continue to recommend him to anyone doing a 335 series build. I might be picking up a 351M bronco soon, so I may be giving Tim another call.

My experience with Holleys and Eddys is the same as yours. But, I do find that WOT seems to be a bit better with Holleys, at least with the out-of-the-box jetting. However, since I don't live at WOT and never race I'm happy to trade speed for dependability.